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Author Topic:   Another damper question
65driver
Gearhead

Posts: 101
From: Syracuse, NY, USA
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 03-10-2002 12:25 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65driver   Click Here to Email 65driver     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Just out of curiosity, what is a zero balance damper for am internally balanced 289/302. I thought all 2889/302/351 were either 28oz or 50 balance. I have never heard of an internally balanced, zero balance 289/302.

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 5428
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 03-10-2002 11:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You could balance your 289/302/351 to "zero balance" with all parts balanced internally. The factory didn't, but it can be done.

SteveW

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kid vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 3773
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 03-10-2002 11:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for kid vishus   Click Here to Email kid vishus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by steve'66:
You could balance your 289/302/351 to "zero balance" with all parts balanced internally. The factory didn't, but it can be done.

SteveW


Yep, it's better for high rpm motors to be balanced internally.

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65driver
Gearhead

Posts: 101
From: Syracuse, NY, USA
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 03-10-2002 01:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65driver   Click Here to Email 65driver     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well, the reason I ask, is that I had the engine rebuilt about 3000 miles ago. I had the builder balance the rotating assembly, as he recommended it and the charge was not bad at the time. Now, I'm about to change the cam and heads, and figured I'd replace the damper at the same time, on a friends suggestion. Well, in looking at the damper, which is stock, I see 2 "drill holes" in it that are in the outer flat side of the damper, around the circumference if you will. They were obviously done after the builder painted the damper. They are of two different depths, at two different spots , with the deeper of the 2 about 1/4 inch deep. I can't figure out why those are there, unless he possibly balanced the rotating assembly with the damper on? Is that a stupid question? I can't ask him, as he has since moved. I think I need a 28oz damper, but will I screw up the balance if I replace the damper?

Also, another question: If you bump the engine to have the rotor pointing at #1 (on the dist cap), that means that the number one cylinder is roughly at TDC, correct? If thats true, shouldn't the timing pointer on the front cover be pointing at the TDC mark on the damper?

Thanks for the help. I want to get started on the engine, but wnat to make sure I have all my info straight before I start!

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kid vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 3773
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 03-10-2002 01:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kid vishus   Click Here to Email kid vishus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The pointer shoudl be pointed at roughly wherever you have your initial timing pointed. If its timed with 10* initial (just an example) the pointer should be n the vicinity of the 10* mark.

I'm sure you need a 28 oz balancer, but not sure about the drill holes in the one you currently have unless they are balance holes. I know I have seen flexplates with extra weights welded on them (or moved like mine is) or even lightened to help balance the assembly.

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