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  Strip down to nothin'... or not? (no, this doesn't belong in the Men's Room!)

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Author Topic:   Strip down to nothin'... or not? (no, this doesn't belong in the Men's Room!)
V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 3267
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 03-08-2002 12:58 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'm looking WAY ahead with this...

My '65 GT coupe is Silver Smoke Grey, a rare color that I don't see around much. I love the color, and when the time comes, I'll have it painted the same color. She's faded on all top surfaces, pretty bad. Tried every buffing/polishing compound known to man, nada. Bummer.

What is the deciding factor to strip the whole car or not? It's a California car, and with the unfortunate exception of daily driver duty 10 years ago, the thing has never been hit, no rust, and it's overall cosmetic condition is pristine concidering it's age.

[This message has been edited by V8 Thumper (edited 03-08-2002).]

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 32655
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 03-08-2002 02:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The deciding factor is the condition of the base. If there are cracks, hazing, or rust, you should really strip down to metal. If the paint is in otherwise good condition except for the fading, you can sand it down, seal it with a sealer primer and then build up from there.

There are actually two schools of thought with the pros. Half of them say there is no better paint than factory paint and whenever you can you should use whatever is left and build up from there. The other half say that today's paint technology is vastly superior and you should strip all the old stuff off and start from the bare metal up.

I think the best way is to strip to bare metal, but only because I like getting to the metal and cleaning and treating it with modern chemicals and using a single paint system. I feel that way because I then know that the metal was in fact treated properly, and all the chemicals are 100% compatable.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip

MCA Member # 47773

"First, get the facts, then you can distort them at your leisure." -- Mark Twain

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 3267
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 03-08-2002 07:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Steve... valuable info. Since my project is over-budget and under-funded, I'm leaning tward 'cost effective' measures. I've got plenty of elbow grease... not opposed to that one bit. How much would you say stripping would add to the cost of a better-than-decent paint job? I'd like to do as much as I can myself, so to have more $ available for top quality materials. Not sure I'd want to strip the whole car down to metal in my garage, though.

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 32655
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 03-08-2002 08:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well, it adds a lot of time to the job, and time is money. I'd bet it would add ~ $500-1000 or so to the job, depending on the shop.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip

MCA Member # 47773

"First, get the facts, then you can distort them at your leisure." -- Mark Twain

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SuperDave
Gearhead

Posts: 123
From: Tacoma, WA USA
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 03-09-2002 12:04 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for SuperDave   Click Here to Email SuperDave     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Stripping a car to bare metal is a NASTY job. Aircraft stripper is caustic and must be treated with repect. I seriously doubt if any commercial paint operation would do the job regardless of cost. If they did, you wouldn't want to hear of the cost.

My 64 1/2 vert had been painted an incorrect color and it was a Maaco type "quickie" to boot. I got the car over thirty years ago and I still have vivid memories of how much work it was to disassemble and strip it of paint. The vapors from the stripper will make you halucinate if you don't use it in an open space. The stripper will burn your skin and disolve your fingernails unless you use nirile gloves. After being stripped it must be neutralized to "kill" the latent stripper. I used brass (not steel) wool as an abrasive to aid in the cleansing.

That being said, the final result was an outstanding re-paint in the original Guardsman Blue. The car is still very sharp today after thirty years of pampered existance.

[This message has been edited by SuperDave (edited 03-09-2002).]

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kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 2559
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 03-09-2002 12:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
thumper,
Believe it or not, my Kcode coupe is originally a K code color too, Silversmoke Gray. The only remnants of the original paint is under the dashpad.

Keep in mind that any paint job is only as good as what is under it. Cutting corners on primer, sealer, metal preping, or bondo will shorten the life span of the topcoat.

Look at GM cars of 77-80 vintage with any light colored metallic paints,blues and silvers. They say the UV rays did it. But the primer under the paint turned to powder and the top coats all peeled off or flaked off. I had a 77 Cutlass Brogham light blue and bare metal.

Mike

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