I was hoping I could get your help with regards to the rear main seal. I'm trying to visualize the steps and I need a little help. I'm a novice mechanic that isn't afraid to get dirty and learn as much a possible.

I've searched the entire 1966 Ford Mustang shop manual and I can't find good enough instructions on how to perform this fix with the engine still in the car. I would appreciate it if you could add/remove steps from the checklist. I can follow directions very well... I just need a good set of instructions.

1. Raise the car so we have enough workspace.
2. Remove front sway bar (neccessary?)
3. Drain oil and unbolt and remove oil pan.
4. ???

I'm not sure what to visualize at that point and what to remove and what to replace. =) that's where I need help. I've been searching M&M and I noticed that there are two different types of seals, rubber and a 'rope' type seal. If I have a rope type seal, is it possible to replace it with rubber seal? What material is the actual 'rope' seal made of? What are the torque specs I should use if there are any bolts I have to retighten. I'll do what the shop manual says for torque specs of the oil pan. Also, I plan on replacing the oil pan gasket. Is that recommended or not required?

Any response is greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Erik

Drain the oil.

Remove the engine crossmember.

Remove the oil pan.

Clean everything with brake clean.

Remove rear main cap.

Remove old seal half from said cap.

Remove other half from block via push or pull.

INstall a neoprene replacment seal. You will just fish the block half through. DOn't forget to lube it well.

INstall the other half in the main cap.

Lube the main bearing.

Reinstall the main cap and torque to 75 ft lbs.

Install new pan gasket and reinstall the oil pan.

Etc. Etc.

Have fun.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator

You also want to remember to remove the spike in the main cap that held the old rope seal, and stagger the seal 1/4" in the block for better sealing. Also, make sure the seal is install in the right direction, with the lips of the seal pointing towards the engine. Install them wrong and they'll leak worse than before.

While the pan is off, staighten any pulled bolt holes with a hammer, socket, and piece of wood.
You'll also want to get some spray tack gasket sealer and 'glue' the gasket onto the cleaned block pan rails, or the oil pan gasket will keep falling as you reinstall the pan. You'll also need some RTV sealer to seal between the gaskets and the rubber end seals.

Do not overtighten, or you will split the ends of the gasket. You want to just see the gasket start to compress.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator

quote:

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Originally posted by Moneymaker:
I used the "short" version.

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You'll give someone oily shoes that way!

quote:

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Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
. Also, make sure the seal is install in the right direction, with the lips of the seal pointing towards the engine. Install them wrong and they'll leak worse than before.

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Did that one time. Made a helluva mess on the floor while the car was running .

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator

Thanks for the replies. I've looked at my rebuilding manuals and understand pretty much everything you mentioned except for the seal lips. I went out and bought the seals last weekend and I bought the rubber seals. The seals seem to have a triangular point sort of like below...
.
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| \
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Does the point (dot) go in or face towards the front of does it face away towards the transmission? The point is not exactly centered and is offset a little bit.

Thanks in advance!! You guys have been a great help!!

Regards,

Erik

p.s. please see my next post "transmission replace checklist".

Hope this helps, if not hang in there someone else will weigh in that might have a better explanation.

quote:

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Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
Also, make sure the seal is install in the right direction, with the lips of the seal pointing towards the engine. Install them wrong and they'll leak worse than before.

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Is there a place I can buy that online?

Or even possibly a place like Sears or Kragen?

Can I use this with rubber seals or rope type only?

Thanks.

Regards,

Erik

quote:

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Originally posted by SuperDave:
Lisle makes a tool called a "Sneaky Pete" that makes upper seal removal and installation a snap. Us "old timey" guys have used them for years.

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Yup, and it's great to get the new guys with. "Put your finger here, just for a second..."

It's a tubular net made of stainless steel wire that closes as you pull it.

It also has a very non-PC name, too, but I doubt you'll see it advertised under that name these days.

Edit: It's for the rope type seal, you'll damage the rubber seal if you install it with that tool. You won't need to, anyway.

I used to only use the sneaky pete when I had a stuck one. Most of the ones I did came out with just needle nose pliers.
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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
MCA Member # 47773

Always borrow money from a pessimist, they don't expect it back.

Can I use this with rubber seals or rope type only?

Thanks again!!

Regards,

Erik

I was also suprised that Chilton's says you need to loosed up all the other main caps. I took the advice above and only took off the rear main cap, did not have to touch any of the others, and the rear seal came out and went back in no problem. The seal I had had a very clear picture on the package showing which way to install it.

Ok fellas,

I did this before swapping in the Dynamic C4. Fairly straight forward process and successful!!

Only problem we came across was putting the top half of the seal into the block. I sort of ate up part of the top half. It would've probably still worked but I went out and bought a new one anyway just to make sure. Lubing it very well is the KEY!! Also noticed when I removed the rear main cap, man did that sludge on the bolts STINK!! Worse than gear oil!! Another thing, we found plastic fragments and a few metal fragments in the oil pan and oil pickup. Any idea where those small plastic and metal pieces came from?

Overall, changing the rear main seal was a SUCCESSFUL project with NO MORE LEAKING!! Although I haven't really pushed the engine to WOT yet. Just took it for a test run but all seems well.

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!

I had my "Rebuilding a Small Block Ford" book and a printed copy of this exact thread right next to me in the garage the entire time!!

Thanks again.

Regards,

Erik

Hemikiller is right, it's most likely an old timing gear's remnants.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
MCA Member # 47773

I was a little confused from your post. Correct me if i'm wrong, but you recommend I check/replace the timing gears and the oil pump?

That would probably explain my low oil pressure. Although I thought the oil pickup screen would block those plastic parts from entering the oil pump? Am I mistaken?

That would be a fun upcoming project now that i've had a little experience with the oil pan and rear main seal. Won't be as overwhelming. I think the biggest part of doing something I've never done is the anxiousness buildup before actually tackling the job.

Erik

Sorry about the cryptic post, I find some of the dumb things Ford did very amusing at times.

A good way to check if the timing chain is tired is to put a timing light on the motor, and watch it at idle. If the timing mark is walking a couple degrees back and forth, the chain is stretched, and probably original, depending on the mileage of your motor. It's good insurance either way to replace the chain and gears. I'd recommend a Cloyes or a Dynagear roller setup. A little pricey, but you will never wear it out.