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Author
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Topic: timing help
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'69PonyRider
Gearhead Posts: 110
From: Hawthorne, CA
Registered: Sep 2001
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posted 02-25-2002 11:58 PM
   
ok heres the deal, the way that my cleveland is performing right now isnt what id like it to be and i think its got something to do with the timing. I have and MSD 6AL w/ Blaster 2 and distributor. I recently purchased the car and the engine shook way too much so i checked the timing and it was at 30 deg, and 650rpm's i set it to 25 and later found that its supposed to be set at 6, is this correct? it is currently at 6deg and idling at about 900rpms, i think it should be idling at around 650 for auto right? but it backfires too much so i left it at 900 rpms. The shaking stopped but it feels sluggish, it needs a lot of gas to get going and sometimes backfires at the carb. Im not sure about this timing thing my dad helps me out with all this but hes no expert either, so what should the timing be set at or how do i go about figuring the right setting. Im guessing that 6 deg is for stock ignition systems, it ran pretty good when at 30deg once it got going but it shook way too much. could the sluggishness be also a carb thing? ill see what i get from you guys then ill ask more things. thanks in advance.
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 17471
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 02-26-2002 12:35 AM
If your balancer is indicated up to at least 30 degrees then rev engine to a steady 3500 RPM and set the timing to 40 degrees as long as you have decent gas. See how it runs and if it pings then reduce the timing two degrees at a time until it stops. Set the carb idle at 700 in gear.  ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Part time secret agent license #0089
US Class Nationals link
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 29373
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 02-26-2002 09:14 AM
You are disconnecting the vacuum advance on the distributor when you set it, aren't you?------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
MCA Member # 47773
I once asked a man: "Who art thou, that ye may pass judgment upon others?" Then he added $75 to my fine...
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70 Pony
Gearhead Posts: 1783
From: Glenmoore, PA, USA
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 02-26-2002 11:28 AM
First of all.....DEFINITELY listen to Alex and Steve before me......
But I've found that my car seems to like a lot of initial timing...I've had it as high as 20 degrees with no pinging and great acceleration. But I backed it down to 16 degrees, to get the proper advance.
I had a backfiring problem that drove me nuts. But it was only happening on DECELERATION from wide open throttle.... What type of intake are you using...the reason I ask is that I use an Edelbrock Performer RPM...they have a vacuum port on the last runner on the passenger side. I was using this for (I think) my power brakes.....
What was happening was the vacuum at that runner was sucking air and that cylinder wasn't firing properly. So now I use a vacuum reserve cannister and replumbed by vacuum lines....back firing fixed....
Also check your fuel bowl levels for proper height. And remember, as you advance your timing your idle will go up in RPM's so it's
constant back and forth adjusting....
Just my 2 cents......worth 1 cent....
Good Luck !!------------------
EDDIE D
Resto Mod '70 Sport Roof
Arrest Me Red
'02 GT, Torch Red
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'69PonyRider
Gearhead Posts: 110
From: Hawthorne, CA
Registered: Sep 2001
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posted 02-26-2002 09:17 PM
Steve there is no vacuum line running to the distributor.
I also noticed that most of the vacuum ports are blocked off on the carb(holley) and i think one on the intake(Edelbrock Performer). I know just about next to nothing when it comes to vacuum lines. where should they be going is there somewhere on the net that shows tutorials or something?
Also Steve, if i remember correctly, wasnt there an article on this page that you wrote i think that showed how you built your cleveland? i looked for it the other day but no luck. im thinking of rebuilding but have no idea what exactly to do. is there some way i can get that article? thanks
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70 Pony
Gearhead Posts: 1783
From: Glenmoore, PA, USA
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 02-27-2002 01:32 PM
If there is no vacuum line to your distributor, then you either have a "mechanical Advance" distributor...or a vacuum advance that needs one....
The way to tell...if you have a (usually silver) thingy do shaped like a bell with a little tube sticking out of it, in front of the distributor body right under the cap...it's a vacuum advance. If there's one there, it should have a vacuum line inserted around the tube, or at least be blocked off by a rubber boot.
If it's not there, then you have a mechanical advance distributor.....------------------
EDDIE D
Resto Mod '70 Sport Roof
Arrest Me Red
'02 GT, Torch Red
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craigber
Journeyman Posts: 71
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: Sep 2000
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posted 03-01-2002 01:06 AM
here is my 2 cents...after I rebuilt my 351c I had a similar problem..changed intakes, carb, distributer, etc. turned out my balancer was out of wack...got a new one from Dr. Damper and voila...problems solved...14 degrees timing and runs great...------------------
Craigber
71 Red Rag
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 456
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 03-01-2002 10:39 PM
It's possible that the distributor has the advance locked out on it if someone was building a race engine. If it is you will see no timing change as you rev the engine up. I do not think this is a good setup for a street engine.------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23
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