WHAT A HACK JOB!

They cut a 6in. X 18in. hole in the floor, cut the floor support out, drilled slots in both the mount and the crossmember....?

I'm thinking cut the spotwelds from the floor brace move it back then with a air hammer bulge the floor were needed?

But theres more to it then that. the 3.72 first gear is too low to use with any "real" gears. Apparently they shift like crap and leak oil too!

quote:

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Originally posted by SundanceKid:
But theres more to it then that. the 3.72 first gear is too low to use with any "real" gears. Apparently they shift like crap and leak oil too!

Arrrg.....Fords

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Ummmm.......

1. It's a 3.27 first gear.

2. I run it with 4.11's.

3. They shift fine, as long as you get an aftermarket shifter AND LET IT BREAK IN PROPERLY!

4. No leaks so far, and it's been over a year since we got it.

I've been power shifting the Tremec since '98 now and its still working like a charm.

Alex, I would realy love to use a T-5. The way I shift I know that I will splatter that thing in a year. No brag just fact!

65_289, Sorry I'm dyslexic I meant 3.27. Most of the info I have on how they shift leak drive ect. came from reviews on Stangnet, most if not all people if they post a complaint is the notchy shifting and the leaks, also that they are noticably loud.

I have been told by D&D Dark Horse and Modern Driveline, there are two ways to install a Tremec.
First and from what they all said the incorrect way, is to just install it no trans hump mods but a lower mount. They all said this causes driveline angle problems and severe driveshaft vibration.
I think I belive them because they actualy make more money this way then the other way because they can sell a lowered cross member.
The other so they say correct way is to move the floor support back and use the stock crossmember. D&D and Dark Horse said to cut the trans tunnel Modern Driveline said to make clearance where needed...I take that as hammer form the metal?

If you guys convince me to get a Tremec (I would appreciate it) I can get one for 100.00 more then a T-5 but then I won't need a special crossmember...so will save 28.00 in the end!

This is a serious chunk of change to me! I want to spend the money wisely and only once. My car is on hold till I figure what trans I am going to use. So far I've racked my brain for 7 month now.

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Neal
Member #723
[email protected] AIM: MrWesson22

65_302, thanks for the reply. I have heard many people complain about down shifting being hard too? Any problems with down shifting? This will be a track car so i't kinda important to shift smooth both down and up. How did you break it in and what oil/fluid did you use?

.68 5th (same) * 4.11 = 2.79
.5 6th (same) * 4.56 = 2.28

Even with 4.56s over 4.11s to get a little more launch with a 2.66 1st (reasonable) compared to a 3.27 1st (too deep IMO), you can still cruise at considerably lower rpm. I like my trannies relatively close ratio, so I'm just saying the tremec isn't really an option for me. It's a good tranny - I'm not bashing it. I'd just rather pay the extra money when that time comes for a more reasonably geared tranny without the rpm drops and with that nice .5 6th gear.

I know it's a bigger tranny, so I was just wondering what's involved in installing one in classic sheetmetal. Until this works its way up to the top on my priority list (it'll be a while), I'll stick with my good ole wide ratio toploader.

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Neal
Member #723
[email protected] AIM: MrWesson22

The one thing to remember is you will add weight. The only reason we did not go back with a good heavy duty toploader is the cars' use. When we do the stroker kit and it becomes a weekend warrior, we may look at going back to a toploader, MAYBE. Its still a daily driver that sees highway use often. With 4.11s we NEEDED the 5th gear, or a direct line to the local CITGO.

quote:

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Originally posted by 65_302:
Sundance, the break in is ~500 miles with no gear jamming. Oil is the GM synthetic used in the automatics. I think its called Synchromesh or something like that. Cost $9.00 qt and takes 3 qts. Downshifting is no problem at all. I will watch the rpm drop you reference from 1 - 2. Never noticed it being that much.

The one thing to remember is you will add weight. The only reason we did not go back with a good heavy duty toploader is the cars' use. When we do the stroker kit and it becomes a weekend warrior, we may look at going back to a toploader, MAYBE. Its still a daily driver that sees highway use often. With 4.11s we NEEDED the 5th gear, or a direct line to the local CITGO.

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http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=109972&highlight=tremec

Check these posts on Stangnet tell me what you think?

I'm about to loose my cool here!
I'm getting F'n tired of companies and people telling me that "The trans goes right in no problems."

I keep telling myself maybe these people don't know better, maybe they like driveline vibration and the posibility of screwing their car or worse. Maybe the thought of haveing the engine and tranny hanging on the ground is a new cool trend?

Well if you have drivetrain angles like that fine cool...but don't tell others to do the same thing...cuz guess what, It ain't ok and do the other guy a favor by telling him the whole story. If it requires to alter the trans tunnel why not just say "You will need to cut and get 2" clearance in the trans tunnel." Not "Yeah...fit's right in."

I'm sorry but to me, by saying "It fits right in." that says little if any mods are required! I sertainly do not consider cutting half the floor out as fitting right in!
Agreed, differant people differant abilities. For those who have experience this sort of modification is a simple matter. But for those with little mechanical skills don't tell them it just bolts in and your on your marry F'n way!

SORRY I just read the above threads I posted and one guy in perticular was very missleading to this young guy and the few others that chimed in helped to perpetuate the on going Bullsh!+ I dono I guess I could be wrong?

I'm glad M&M has a higher standard than this.

quote:

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Originally posted by SundanceKid:
No offense but if a Tremec goes in at an angle like that...and you think that is Ok or correctly installed. SEEK F'n HELP!

I'm about to loose my cool here!
I'm getting F'n tired of companies and people telling me that "The trans goes right in no problems."

I keep telling myself maybe these people don't know better, maybe they like driveline vibration and the posibility of screwing their car or worse. Maybe the thought of haveing the engine and tranny hanging on the ground is a new cool trend?

Well if you have drivetrain angles like that fine cool...but don't tell others to do the same thing...cuz guess what, It ain't ok and do the other guy a favor by telling him the whole story. If it requires to alter the trans tunnel why not just say "You will need to cut and get 2" clearance in the trans tunnel." Not "Yeah...fit's right in."

I'm sorry but to me, by saying "It fits right in." that says little if any mods are required! I sertainly do not consider cutting half the floor out as fitting right in!
Agreed, differant people differant abilities. For those who have experience this sort of modification is a simple matter. But for those with little mechanical skills don't tell them it just bolts in and your on your marry F'n way!

SORRY I just read the above threads I posted and one guy in perticular was very missleading to this young guy and the few others that chimed in helped to perpetuate the on going Bullsh!+ I dono I guess I could be wrong?

I'm glad M&M has a higher standard than this.

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[edit] My Tremec doesn't look like that.

I am tired of hearing about that one guy. Yes, he is having problems. No, I haven't heard of ANYONE else with the same problem. We got a custom crossmember with ours. Maybe he is using a stock one and that is his problem.

www.swarrauto.com Jim Swarr set us up nicely.

[edit] Look, you can believe whoever you want. You can look at one guy having massive problems, or you can llok at the many others who are completely satisfied. I am sure there are many more satisfied ones than there are people who have an angle like that.

I put a Tremec TKO in my '66 fastback using one of Darkhorse Performance's crossmembers. This was many years ago and I did not have any clearance issues and did not have to do any tunnel work. One of the bolts was tricky but I believe a curved obstruction box wrench worked for me. I did have driveline vibration but I did not attribute it to the tranny crossmember at the time since I also swapped in a 351C, shortened driveshaft, and a drag race 9" housing at the same time. I would have guessed it was the housing but really didn't think about it. In any sort of driveline swap, it's important to get the output of the transmission parallel to the input to the rear end. On a leaf sprung car, the easiest way to do this is to add wedge shims to the spring attach points. This will rotate the housing.

Also, the 3.27:1 first gear is similar to the typical 3.35:1 first in a T-5 (X and Z code are 2.95:1). Use the specific part number GM Syncromesh fluid called out in the users manual. It was developed for GM manual gear boxes (not automatics which use Dexron ATF) and add an aftermarket shifter (may need to trim the hole in the floor where the shifter pops through to fit the aftermarket shifter).

Jim,

They go into '69's just fine. Nayoki Kamiya (was on Fordnatics years ago when I was) has one behind the 428CJ in his Mach 1. I should have his installation details saved off somewhere. Email me and I look for them.

I only need one overdriven gear. Remember too, the more gears you have the more gears you spin the less power to the wheels.

I don't know if shifting six times even five times in a quarter would be very productive? Even if your Qwickdraw McGraw with the clutch pedal?

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Tim

What aftermarket shifter is best? (opinions)

What rear gear should I use? (opinions)

I personaly think a 350-370 would be perfect, but I would love to hear your input.

Shifter? I liked the feel of the pro-5.0 I was playing with the other day. I am sure others have much more experience thatn I though...

2.Must still be able to be used as a daily driver (not nessesary, but why not for fun)

3. Freeway RPM under 2600 @75 MPH (opinions?)

4. Used mostly for AutoX approx 10-20 times per year.

5. Used for Drag racing 3-4 times per year.

6. Car will be lighten to the maximum possible and weight balance as close to 50/50 as I can get.

7. Cam duration in the 270-280 range

One of the shops told me that if I used the lower ride mounts, the tunnel would not have to be modified as much if at all. Maybe some of the variation of opinions on whether any after market tranny fits with or without mods is related to the motor mounts. I wouldn't think the motor mounts would affect mods needed towards the rear of the tunnel, but it definitely would affect the need for mods towards the front of the tunnel.

What kinds of autocross tracks do they design in your area? Are they wide and fast or narrow and slow? You don't want to end up having to shift during your run....
just another thing to think about!
This will also affect your cam choice, you will need a nice wide power band.

BTW Sundance, are you in the military?

As for the mounts, I've been under the impression that the 65's are the lower ones? Is this correct? My oilpan is like 1/2" away from the cross member.

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Marcus? <-- needs to learn to type
Green 68 <-- Satan
88 Ninja 600R <-- Black Death

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Neal
Member #723
[email protected] AIM: MrWesson22

69 Gulfstream Aqua Grande
351C/Toploader 4sp

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Neal
Member #723
[email protected] AIM: MrWesson22

I am going on these factors:

- Ease of installation

- Performance (as in which has good 0-60)
I would think that the T56 has more spinning mass meaning a harder time accelerating

- Easy Shifting

Did I forget anything? If I did please inform my lame thread. Thank you in advance

quote:

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Originally posted by 289 Rod:
To many which is better questions for the T5 and T56! I want a high performance transmission that can take the abuse, which is better canidate?

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One thing not mentioned concerning the T56 swap is the massive size of the 6 speed. Put a T5 and T56 side by side and you will see what I am talking about. The few installs I have seen on the early cars requires quite a bit of "massaging" to the tunnel.

I think what you have to REALLY ask yourself is what application are you shooting for? I own a 1997 Pontiac Formula Firebird LT1 with a 6 speed and also a 1999 Camaro SS with the LS1 6 speed. Both cars have 3.42 rear gears and both are capable of some pretty steep top ends. I have had the Firebird up to 145 and the Camaro at 155, a lot due in part to the aerodynamics of the car AND the 6 speed with TWO overdriven gears. In my own project 65 Fastback (Xtremestang), I have a worked over World Class T5. I agree with Alex in that the 5.0 crowd has had LOTZ of success with these transmissions. I personally chose the T5 for my car as it will be running in the Nevada Silver State Classic, a top end high speed contest held over a 90 mile stretch of public highway.

If you are doing a LOT of highway, high speed cruising, then an overdriven 5th gear is almost a necessity these days. If your application takes you further into the drag racing/hard launch arena, then the brute strength of the transmission also comes into play. Be very honest with yourself and how much power you are building into the engine and the TYPE and STYLE of driving you plan and choose your transmission accordingly....

randy

quote:

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Originally posted by 289 Rod:
I hope when I build my engine to have 300+ hp with a 347 stroker, used as a daily driver.

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No sense in spending the $$$ on a stroker if you're just going to make 300hp. You can make 300 easy on a 302.

quote:

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Originally posted by 65_289:
No sense in spending the $$$ on a stroker if you're just going to make 300hp. You can make 300 easy on a 302.

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That is not what I said...over 300 horsepower. Anyways I am not even close to deciding what to use as an engine. Just a goal of close to 400 horsepower and a daily driver.

quote:

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Originally posted by 289 Rod:
I hope when I build my engine to have 300+ hp with a 347 stroker, used as a daily driver.

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The transmission I am probably going to use is the Tremec 3550 even though ease of install is not going to be fun, the performance and reliabilty will be better than a T5. There is limited info about the T56 that I could find. I perfer to use the Richmond 6 because of its torque limits but it is too pricey.

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'65 Mustang Black/Black Pony Interior
289 4V 4 speed Manual
Weiand Dual Plane,AFR 165cc, Comp Cam Pro Magnum Rocker Arms, 3.55 Rearend, 2.5 inch exhaust with headers and loud!

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Neal
Member #723
[email protected] AIM: MrWesson22

I have removed the floorbrace from the trans hump.
If you recall a few companies said you could remove the brace move it back a few inches and use it for the Tremec.
Yes you can, but it still needs a little modification to work. I need about 1/4 inch more room between the floor brace and the trans. I don't know how I will get the needed clearance but it looks very do-able.