Author
|
Topic: Dash removal (metal)
|
SundanceKid Gearhead Posts: 853 From: UT Registered: Feb 2001
|
posted 02-04-2002 12:09 AM
I am planning to remove the cowl on my 65 so I will need to remove the windshield to get to the spotwelds. The cowl and the dash are held together by the same spot welds right? My dash has like 15 coats of thick crappy paint, and some surface rust on the back. Has anyone had the pleasure of removeing their dash?
IP: Logged |
mellowyellow Gearhead Posts: 5518 From: So. Fl. Registered: Aug 2000
|
posted 02-04-2002 07:19 AM
Just answered your post above this. To remove the cowl there are over 130 spot welds to be removed. Week before the Pony Doc addressed this issue. Check it out. As to removing the dash. If the cowl lid needs to be removed, you can address the rust problem on dash. It's a major job.If ALL wiring, heater, wiper motor, column, etc are removed and it's a heavy surface rust, you can attack the problem without removing dash. Products like Por 15, Zero rust can be used to stop it. There should be some inf on line re these products. Also, seeing as you're doing a complete, you might consider adding torque boxes to your car for added strength. This was discussed yesterday.
IP: Logged |
SundanceKid Gearhead Posts: 853 From: UT Registered: Feb 2001
|
posted 02-04-2002 10:57 PM
The car is completly gutted, nothing but bare metal and the dash. The rust isn't too bad but since I'm going to bare metal and POR15 everthing else "why not?" I figured. Now to me, the torque boxes seem like a major rust trap. Just how are you suppost to paint inside it to cover the bare metal? Then again I am WAY anal when it comes to rust and rust prevention.
IP: Logged |
mellowyellow Gearhead Posts: 5518 From: So. Fl. Registered: Aug 2000
|
posted 02-04-2002 11:56 PM
Just a bit! LOL! Paint the inside of the t-boxes before installation. They are worth it. There are thousands of Mustangs still running their original T-boxes. Ford didn't put them in the later cars for nothin.
IP: Logged |
PonyDoc Journeyman Posts: 84 From: Ft. Lauderdale Registered: Jun 2001
|
posted 02-05-2002 12:23 AM
If you're removing the cowl, you won't need to remove the dash. Just get a side cutter and cut it on the flat spot just below and in front of where the windshield gasket goes. When you re-weld it and grind it down, it won't have to be perfeact because it's covered by the windshield and trim.Using POR-15 or Mastercoat is the way to go. If you look, there's a small hole at the bottom of the torque box and you can spray something inside to help. You can even cut a hole for access, and weld it back, since you're already welding the cowl. Remember to have the cowl area painted car color BEFORE you put the top back on. It'll be seen after you're done, and Ford used car color. When I do my car, it's going on the rotisserie and after I flood the cavities w/ MasterCoat, I'm using the foam to fill them to keep water out. It'll also help make the car more solid.
IP: Logged |
SundanceKid Gearhead Posts: 853 From: UT Registered: Feb 2001
|
posted 02-05-2002 03:23 AM
Thanks PonyDoc hadn't thought of that on the dash! And just when you think your THE most anal person in the world someone proves you wrong! What kind of foam and were to you get it! LOL What do you all think of some stainless steel mesh epoxied on the underside of the cowl to cover the vents?
IP: Logged |
Mike65 Gearhead Posts: 1729 From: Columbia,NJ, USA. 65 Fastback, 69 Coupe MCA #-04549 Registered: Dec 2000
|
posted 02-06-2002 09:02 AM
Hi Sundance, Go to my M&M web site (see highlighted link below) & check out the pics of my wifes 65 Fastback with the cowl cut off & the old cowl out of the car. The repolacement cowl is now welded back in, I dont have any pics of that on the site yet. I got the replacement cowl from a rust free doaner from CA. I am working on the floors now & ading torque boxs. Any questions e-mail me I will help you any way I can.------------------ Mike & Robin 65 Mustang Fastback 69 Mustang Coupe 87 LTD CV 96 Ranger Extd Cab PU 99 Explorer Sport M&M #- 890 MCA #- 4549 www.mike65.mustangsandmore.ws
IP: Logged |
SundanceKid Gearhead Posts: 853 From: UT Registered: Feb 2001
|
posted 02-06-2002 01:25 PM
Hey thanks Mike I will take a look at your site. If I have any questions I'll E-mail you. I'm still a couple weeks out till I do my cowl. PonyDoc I actualy "want" to remove my dash. To remove all the surface rust.
IP: Logged |
SundanceKid Gearhead Posts: 853 From: UT Registered: Feb 2001
|
posted 02-06-2002 01:31 PM
Wow Mike, You had it way worse then I do! That makes my car look good! LOL Do you do all that wood work? Very good! My dad is a wood worker guy...I went the way of metal.
IP: Logged |
SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 30756 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
|
posted 02-06-2002 02:38 PM
quote: Originally posted by SundanceKid: What do you all think of some stainless steel mesh epoxied on the underside of the cowl to cover the vents?
I think that's an excellent idea. If you keep the leaves and pine needles out of there, that's 1/2 the battle. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip '97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC MCA Member # 47773 Mechanic's creedo: If it jams, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.
IP: Logged |