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Author
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Topic: Steering Questions
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cynot65
Gearhead Posts: 937
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 01-28-2002 09:40 PM
   
Finally got the front springs off. (A nightmare of epic proportions). So I started on the steering parts and I had a few problems along the way and I need some help. First of all. I can not get the PS cylinder off from the center steering link. You know, where the ball stud attaches to the steering link. I have put it in the vise and was banging on the steering link and nothing. Next comes the Idler arm that is attached to the steering box. You know that Ball stud that attaches right behind the control valve? well the stud stayed attached to the ider arm. Also though the conrol arms came out very nicely, I did notice that the rubber boot that covers the studs are completly shot and I was told that I have to replace the whole shebang. Both inner and outer amd the sleeve too. Is that true? I sure could use some help on this one gang.
Tony C*------------------
65 Convertible, Vintage Burgandy/Standard Black Interior, 289, 4spd
M&M Member#450
It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!!
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 30756
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-29-2002 09:26 AM
I can not get the PS cylinder off from the center steering link. You know, where the ball stud attaches to the steering link. I have put it in the vise and was banging on the steering link and nothing.You need either a tool called a 'pickle fork' which is a chisel shaped like a U at the end, or a 'ball joint press' which fits over the joint like C clamp. You can also bring it to a machine shop and have them press it off. Next comes the Idler arm that is attached to the steering box. You know that Ball stud that attaches right behind the control valve? well the stud stayed attached to the ider arm. Same as above, but that's the pittman arm. The idler arm attaches to the frame on the opposite side. Also though the conrol arms came out very nicely, I did notice that the rubber boot that covers the studs are completly shot and I was told that I have to replace the whole shebang. Both inner and outer amd the sleeve too. Is that true?[/QUOTE] No, if your upper control arms are in good shape otherwise, you can replace the control arm bushings with kits available from NPD or Mustangs Plus. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
MCA Member # 47773
Of all the things I've lost, my mind is what I miss the most.
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cynot65
Gearhead Posts: 937
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 01-29-2002 09:34 AM
Big Guy, Thanks for correcting me on the Pittman arm. I knew it but after a full day off being up to my a** in mustang I slipped. I tried the "pickle fork" to no avail. I'll try a machine shop. As far as the one still attached to the pittman arm  should I remove the pittman first and then try or do it while it's still on the box? Thanks for the advice about the control arms. I believe they're in good shape so I'll look into the two catalogues you mentioned.
Thganks again
Tony C*------------------
65 Convertible, Vintage Burgandy/Standard Black Interior, 289, 4spd
M&M Member#450
It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!!
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 30756
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-29-2002 09:40 AM
For the Pittman arm, I'd do it on the car. Go rent a ball joint press, {it's cheap} and I bet that will pop it loose.------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
MCA Member # 47773
Of all the things I've lost, my mind is what I miss the most.
IP: Logged |
cynot65
Gearhead Posts: 937
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 01-29-2002 10:03 AM
Would a NAPA or a PEP boys have one of those?
Tony C*------------------
65 Convertible, Vintage Burgandy/Standard Black Interior, 289, 4spd
M&M Member#450
It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!!
IP: Logged |
SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 30756
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-29-2002 11:07 AM
Yup.------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
MCA Member # 47773
Of all the things I've lost, my mind is what I miss the most.
IP: Logged |
Moneypit
Gearhead Posts: 105
From: Sacramento CA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-30-2002 06:19 PM
Sure sounds to me like you are talking about the tie rods (inner, outer and adjusting sleeve) and not the control arms (upper and lower). Can you clarify?
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cynot65
Gearhead Posts: 937
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 01-30-2002 07:28 PM
Like I said to the Big Guy, Moneypit you are right I was talking about the tie rods and the center steering link. With so many different things going on on my car and spending so many hours on it I have been a little confused when posting. 
I haven't gotten to the ball stud that's still on the pittman arm and I realized today that I made a major f**k up with the Power steering cylinder and I will be asking questions about what to do with that very soon.
Tony C*
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65 Convertible, Vintage Burgandy/Standard Black Interior, 289, 4spd
M&M Member#450
It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!!
[This message has been edited by cynot65 (edited 01-30-2002).]
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 30756
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-30-2002 08:02 PM
In that case, you can't rebuild the tie rod ends, only replace them. The boots are available though, at your local parts place under the 'Help' line of parts. Of course if you get new tie rods, they'll come with new boots. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
MCA Member # 47773
Of all the things I've lost, my mind is what I miss the most.
IP: Logged |
JT
Gearhead Posts: 186
From: Pearland, Texas, USA
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-30-2002 11:50 PM
When I was replacing the control valve in my '68 I had the stud stay in the pitman arm. I got it out by clamping a pair of Vise Grips onto the the bottom (ball end) of the stud and tapping (beating) on it with a hammer.------------------
JT
'68 Coupe w/351W
'01 Bullitt #3357, Dark Highland Green
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cynot65
Gearhead Posts: 937
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 02-02-2002 01:23 PM
I tried looking for a ball joint press and I wasn't able to rent one so I bought another "picklefork" with a smaller opening and was able to bang it off with that. As far as the tie-rods are concerned I did find a kit in Mustangs Plus that I'm going to order. My new problem involves the control valve. I'm not so sure that I have the ability to rebuild it myself. I've been told that they're very tricky. Is it better to have it done by someone more experienced? or can a "rookie" do it. I need an upper control arm too. Can you believe the idiot that had this car before me WELDED the bolts to one of the control arms!!! I got one of the spring seats off with no problem and went to do the other one and found that mess. Well another $$$ka-ching$$$.
Tony C*------------------
65 Convertible, Vintage Burgandy/Standard Black Interior, 289, 4spd
M&M Member#450
It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!! [This message has been edited by cynot65 (edited 02-02-2002).]
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JT
Gearhead Posts: 186
From: Pearland, Texas, USA
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 02-02-2002 08:40 PM
I tried rebuilding the control valve myself. It lasted about a week before it started leaking worse than ever. I then purchased a rebuilt one from Auto Zone and (knock on wood) that one is working fine.
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