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Author
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Topic: Cowl Repair
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jond
Journeyman Posts: 11
From:
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-14-2002 09:24 PM
  
After using the plastic cowl repair kit a few years ago, the leak has returned with a vengance. My entire floorboard is getting flooded. How much does it cost(around) to get someone to weld in the new cowl pieces? Also, how should I go about finding someone who has the skills to do it?
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FloJoe
Gearhead Posts: 479
From: Port Orange, FL, USA
Registered: Dec 2000
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posted 01-14-2002 10:58 PM
Try this it might help.http://home.pacifier.com/~dnstoys/cowl2.htm ------------------
Joe Fields
68 Fastback 289ci bored .030 over
C-4
"Scars give character."
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jond
Journeyman Posts: 11
From:
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-14-2002 11:28 PM
Yeah, I know its going to be a lot of work. What do you think, $500 $1,000 ??
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PonyDoc
Journeyman Posts: 84
From: Ft. Lauderdale
Registered: Jun 2001
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posted 01-15-2002 12:07 AM
We've been doing this for years and this will give you an idea as to what is necessary-
1. Remove fenders, hood, windshield, heater box and vent on driver's side.
2. Wire brush along edge of cowl to expose spot welds.
3. Cut every one of those spot welds.
4. Carefully cut cowl under edge of windshield
5. Remove small metal piece that goes from cowl to inner fender and then chisel cowl off of car (very carefully).
6. Cut damaged area out of cowl area, and usually it needs some cutting on the lower panel that has rusted below the cowl.
7. Cut new metal patch panel to match one cut out, and be careful to align area for wiper motor.
8. weld everything back and grind welds.
9. Paint all metal w/ Mastercoat to prevent any future rust.
10. Take to body shop to paint area w/ car color, since it shows thru the vents
11. Weld cowl back and do each spot weld and grind them down.
12. Weld small metal panel to inner fender and them seam-seal the area.
13. Re-install windshield w/ new gasket, and replace fenders & hood.
About $1000-1200 depending upon the amount of rust.
You're looking at 30-40 hours plus parts. It isn't an easy job, but if done right, it will last forever and improve the car's value. (and keep your feet dry!)------------------
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Jeff
Gearhead Posts: 208
From: Moore, OK USA
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 01-15-2002 01:59 PM
If you decide to get the cowl repaired be sure to take it to someone who has the experience of doing the job. Done incorrectly, this can job can go south on you quickly. I've seen one or two botched attempts and the cars have been fairly well destroyed. You don't want to pay someone to learn to do it right! This is one job where you want to pay for the best!
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cynot65
Gearhead Posts: 937
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 01-15-2002 06:54 PM
Amen to that Jeff!!! The first question I asked before I said anything else was "How many cowls have you done before?" I didn't want someone practicing on my car either and I know someone who had thier cowl job go south and it cost him the car because it would have cost him triple the amount to fix what he had screwed up. Pay the right guy.
Tony C*------------------
65 Convertible, Vintage Burgandy/Standard Black Interior, 289, 4spd
M&M Member#450
It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!!
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67fastback2+2
Journeyman Posts: 92
From: Pennsville,New Jersey
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 01-15-2002 11:29 PM
I did a complete cowl repair myself and it was more work than I thought; Rather than replace the top hats I formed sheetmetal and welded it over all the rusted out areas. I figured if I want outside air I'd roll down the window. It took me about 50 hrs. and I am very happy with the results!! Water drains out well and every thing was epoxy primered and painted. 
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jond
Journeyman Posts: 11
From:
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-15-2002 11:46 PM
So I guess the next question is how to find someone who knows what they're doing in the Richmond area. I guess I should look for a local mustang club?
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 853
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 01-16-2002 02:43 AM
I have an ethics question. If I desided to remove the top hat on the drivers side completly and weld it shut.....how hated and loathed will I be? Will I go to the same place as the guy who put a 350 Chev into a Boss when I die? Whatcha think?
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 30756
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-16-2002 08:55 AM
No. That would be better that letting it rust out. But why not fix it right?------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC "Speed costs money. How fast do you want to spend?"
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66351stang
Gearhead Posts: 663
From: sayville,newyork
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 01-16-2002 05:53 PM
remove both fender's,and cut the cowl completely off, now the whole inside is exposed, do the repair's need and reinstall and mig weld cowl back on, sand and fill in with little bondo, i did my own in about 10-12 hours including paint(me and my friend at his body shop) he claim's if someone brought the car in and he did the job it would have cost around 1,1000.00.. total cost me in material $145.00------------------
ponycar66,have you flown in a ford latley???????
66-COUPE W/351SVO
glad i had a v-8 !!!!!!
84.5 gt350-
have a great day!!!!!!!!
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 1708
From: Beaufort, SC
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 01-16-2002 07:08 PM
quote:
Originally posted by PonyDoc:
About $1000-1200 depending upon the amount of rust.It isn't an easy job, but if done right, it will last forever and improve the car's value. (and keep your feet dry!)
I believe the money spent will only bring it back up to par with a car that never had a rusty cowl. So, in the context of your post, yes it will improve the value of the car compared to as it now sits, but compared to the price you can pay to get a car that doesn't have that problem, IMHO I think you're putting more into the car than you will get out. You gotta rescue the cowl (and thus the car) because you want that particular car, any other reason and you'll be disappointed with the money spent.
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 5518
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 01-17-2002 07:26 AM
This is why I always try to suggest to a prospective buyer BEFORE BUYING to look for leakes, pouring some water in cowl and checking. Prices today for a 65-70 fastback CAN justify the cost of a repair. I saw a 70 Mach junked out 2 wks ago. There was NOTHING left of the cowl, and nothing left of the car. Recently, a cowl was repaired here at a 1500 cost. Seemed high until the lid was off. The WHOLE cowl section was gone=65 FB. Now, the car is getting 2 floor sections, has 1/4 rust, blisters over each door-VERY BAD AREA TO FIx, RUST IN TRUNK AND AROUND REAR WINDOW.It has 2 repo doors. In Ca or Ariz, etc, this is a parts car but in Mass, Ill, etc, this could be a fixer. Or, you can do what Sig says, and go look elsewhere. I wouldn't dream of fixing a car like I mention unless it was a Shelby and it better be cheap, 'cause I'd probably turn it. But, these cars are getting harder to find-they bring as much as a cv now, maybe more-and they ARE getting fixed. A lot of guys on this site are able to fix them and to them it's worth it. Some pics on M&M of very nice work! I think I'd rather look out of my area if I wanted one. They're bad in Fl., too. And the nightmare of nightmares is a bad cowl on a 67-8 with Fact. AC!!! YOU HAVEN'T LIVED YET if you haven't been cursed with one of these! For a look at fixing a 70 go to www.mustangcentral.com Nice People!
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 30756
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-17-2002 09:11 AM
Great link, Peter, thanks! ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC Smack an idiot today!
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PonyDoc
Journeyman Posts: 84
From: Ft. Lauderdale
Registered: Jun 2001
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posted 01-22-2002 12:11 AM
BEFORE buying ANY Mustang, we ALWAYS open the heater trap door, reach up, and grab the top hat! This 1 minute test will determine if you'll spend $1000+ on just 1 repair!
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 853
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 01-22-2002 01:19 AM
Steve, the reason I wouldn't fix it correctly, doesn't have anything to do with ability or money. I would just prefer to not have a vent hanging down on the drivers side. I actualy think my top hats are in good shape. I just want to remove the vent. I pitty the guy 50 years from now after I die that tries to restore my mustang to original!
Great links guys
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mustangs68
Moderator Posts: 16604
From: Hampton,Virginia,USA MCA#39406 M&M #12
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-23-2002 06:29 PM
jond,
here's the Mustang Club nearest you.
http://www.centralvamustang.com/sam
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 30756
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-23-2002 06:40 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SundanceKid:
Steve, the reason I wouldn't fix it correctly, doesn't have anything to do with ability or money.
I know you would do a good job, I was just curious, 'tis all. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
MCA Member # 47773
My favorite tool is Occam's Razor
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