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Author Topic:   Cowl Repair
jond
Journeyman

Posts: 11
From:
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 01-14-2002 09:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jond     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
After using the plastic cowl repair kit a few years ago, the leak has returned with a vengance. My entire floorboard is getting flooded.

How much does it cost(around) to get someone to weld in the new cowl pieces?

Also, how should I go about finding someone who has the skills to do it?

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FloJoe
Gearhead

Posts: 479
From: Port Orange, FL, USA
Registered: Dec 2000

posted 01-14-2002 10:58 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for FloJoe   Click Here to Email FloJoe     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Try this it might help.

http://home.pacifier.com/~dnstoys/cowl2.htm

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Joe Fields
68 Fastback 289ci bored .030 over
C-4
"Scars give character."

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jond
Journeyman

Posts: 11
From:
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 01-14-2002 11:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jond     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yeah, I know its going to be a lot of work. What do you think, $500 $1,000 ??

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PonyDoc
Journeyman

Posts: 84
From: Ft. Lauderdale
Registered: Jun 2001

posted 01-15-2002 12:07 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for PonyDoc   Click Here to Email PonyDoc     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
We've been doing this for years and this will give you an idea as to what is necessary-
1. Remove fenders, hood, windshield, heater box and vent on driver's side.
2. Wire brush along edge of cowl to expose spot welds.
3. Cut every one of those spot welds.
4. Carefully cut cowl under edge of windshield
5. Remove small metal piece that goes from cowl to inner fender and then chisel cowl off of car (very carefully).
6. Cut damaged area out of cowl area, and usually it needs some cutting on the lower panel that has rusted below the cowl.
7. Cut new metal patch panel to match one cut out, and be careful to align area for wiper motor.
8. weld everything back and grind welds.
9. Paint all metal w/ Mastercoat to prevent any future rust.
10. Take to body shop to paint area w/ car color, since it shows thru the vents
11. Weld cowl back and do each spot weld and grind them down.
12. Weld small metal panel to inner fender and them seam-seal the area.
13. Re-install windshield w/ new gasket, and replace fenders & hood.
About $1000-1200 depending upon the amount of rust.
You're looking at 30-40 hours plus parts. It isn't an easy job, but if done right, it will last forever and improve the car's value. (and keep your feet dry!)

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Jeff
Gearhead

Posts: 208
From: Moore, OK USA
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 01-15-2002 01:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jeff   Click Here to Email Jeff     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If you decide to get the cowl repaired be sure to take it to someone who has the experience of doing the job. Done incorrectly, this can job can go south on you quickly. I've seen one or two botched attempts and the cars have been fairly well destroyed. You don't want to pay someone to learn to do it right! This is one job where you want to pay for the best!

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cynot65
Gearhead

Posts: 937
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 01-15-2002 06:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cynot65   Click Here to Email cynot65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Amen to that Jeff!!! The first question I asked before I said anything else was "How many cowls have you done before?" I didn't want someone practicing on my car either and I know someone who had thier cowl job go south and it cost him the car because it would have cost him triple the amount to fix what he had screwed up. Pay the right guy.
Tony C*

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65 Convertible, Vintage Burgandy/Standard Black Interior, 289, 4spd
M&M Member#450
It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!!

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67fastback2+2
Journeyman

Posts: 92
From: Pennsville,New Jersey
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 01-15-2002 11:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 67fastback2+2   Click Here to Email 67fastback2+2     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I did a complete cowl repair myself and it was more work than I thought; Rather than replace the top hats I formed sheetmetal and welded it over all the rusted out areas. I figured if I want outside air I'd roll down the window. It took me about 50 hrs. and I am very happy with the results!! Water drains out well and every thing was epoxy primered and painted.

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jond
Journeyman

Posts: 11
From:
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 01-15-2002 11:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jond     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
So I guess the next question is how to find someone who knows what they're doing in the Richmond area. I guess I should look for a local mustang club?

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SundanceKid
Gearhead

Posts: 853
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 01-16-2002 02:43 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for SundanceKid   Click Here to Email SundanceKid     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have an ethics question. If I desided to remove the top hat on the drivers side completly and weld it shut.....how hated and loathed will I be? Will I go to the same place as the guy who put a 350 Chev into a Boss when I die? Whatcha think?

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 30756
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 01-16-2002 08:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
No. That would be better that letting it rust out. But why not fix it right?

------------------

'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

"Speed costs money. How fast do you want to spend?"

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66351stang
Gearhead

Posts: 663
From: sayville,newyork
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 01-16-2002 05:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66351stang   Click Here to Email 66351stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
remove both fender's,and cut the cowl completely off, now the whole inside is exposed, do the repair's need and reinstall and mig weld cowl back on, sand and fill in with little bondo, i did my own in about 10-12 hours including paint(me and my friend at his body shop) he claim's if someone brought the car in and he did the job it would have cost around 1,1000.00.. total cost me in material $145.00

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ponycar66,have you flown in a ford latley???????
66-COUPE W/351SVO
glad i had a v-8 !!!!!!
84.5 gt350-
have a great day!!!!!!!!

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sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 1708
From: Beaufort, SC
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 01-16-2002 07:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by PonyDoc:
About $1000-1200 depending upon the amount of rust.

It isn't an easy job, but if done right, it will last forever and improve the car's value. (and keep your feet dry!)


I believe the money spent will only bring it back up to par with a car that never had a rusty cowl. So, in the context of your post, yes it will improve the value of the car compared to as it now sits, but compared to the price you can pay to get a car that doesn't have that problem, IMHO I think you're putting more into the car than you will get out.

You gotta rescue the cowl (and thus the car) because you want that particular car, any other reason and you'll be disappointed with the money spent.

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5518
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 01-17-2002 07:26 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
This is why I always try to suggest to a prospective buyer BEFORE BUYING to look for leakes, pouring some water in cowl and checking. Prices today for a 65-70 fastback CAN justify the cost of a repair. I saw a 70 Mach junked out 2 wks ago. There was NOTHING left of the cowl, and nothing left of the car. Recently, a cowl was repaired here at a 1500 cost. Seemed high until the lid was off. The WHOLE cowl section was gone=65 FB. Now, the car is getting 2 floor sections, has 1/4 rust, blisters over each door-VERY BAD AREA TO FIx, RUST IN TRUNK AND AROUND REAR WINDOW.It has 2 repo doors. In Ca or Ariz, etc, this is a parts car but in Mass, Ill, etc, this could be a fixer. Or, you can do what Sig says, and go look elsewhere. I wouldn't dream of fixing a car like I mention unless it was a Shelby and it better be cheap, 'cause I'd probably turn it. But, these cars are getting harder to find-they bring as much as a cv now, maybe more-and they ARE getting fixed. A lot of guys on this site are able to fix them and to them it's worth it. Some pics on M&M of very nice work! I think I'd rather look out of my area if I wanted one. They're bad in Fl., too. And the nightmare of nightmares is a bad cowl on a 67-8 with Fact. AC!!! YOU HAVEN'T LIVED YET if you haven't been cursed with one of these! For a look at fixing a 70 go to www.mustangcentral.com Nice People!

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 30756
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 01-17-2002 09:11 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Great link, Peter, thanks!

------------------

'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

Smack an idiot today!

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PonyDoc
Journeyman

Posts: 84
From: Ft. Lauderdale
Registered: Jun 2001

posted 01-22-2002 12:11 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for PonyDoc   Click Here to Email PonyDoc     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
BEFORE buying ANY Mustang, we ALWAYS open the heater trap door, reach up, and grab the top hat! This 1 minute test will determine if you'll spend $1000+ on just 1 repair!

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SundanceKid
Gearhead

Posts: 853
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 01-22-2002 01:19 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for SundanceKid   Click Here to Email SundanceKid     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Steve, the reason I wouldn't fix it correctly, doesn't have anything to do with ability or money. I would just prefer to not have a vent hanging down on the drivers side. I actualy think my top hats are in good shape. I just want to remove the vent. I pitty the guy 50 years from now after I die that tries to restore my mustang to original!
Great links guys

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mustangs68
Moderator

Posts: 16604
From: Hampton,Virginia,USA MCA#39406 M&M #12
Registered: May 99

posted 01-23-2002 06:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mustangs68   Click Here to Email mustangs68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
jond,
here's the Mustang Club nearest you.
http://www.centralvamustang.com/

sam

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 30756
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 01-23-2002 06:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SundanceKid:
Steve, the reason I wouldn't fix it correctly, doesn't have anything to do with ability or money.

I know you would do a good job, I was just curious, 'tis all.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

MCA Member # 47773

My favorite tool is Occam's Razor

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