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Author
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Topic: Hertz/Shelby front valance
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 853
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 01-13-2002 03:05 PM
   
About a year ago I bought a fiberglass front valance to be used with the front bumper. The fit is so-so, I can "make" it fit but I am now wondering If I could metal form a metal valance to look the same? Has anyone done this before? Were the Hert/Shelby valances metal or fiberglass?
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kcode
Gearhead Posts: 2456
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-13-2002 05:14 PM
The stock Shelby/Hertz were Ford issue steel, exactly the same as used on a 65-66 Mustang. The R-model valances, with the cut out in the center for improved cooling were fiberglass. Mike
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 853
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 01-13-2002 05:17 PM
Wonder why the aftermarket isn't stamping steel ones out?Thanks for the info.
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The Iceman
Gearhead Posts: 2001
From: Shelton, CT
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 01-13-2002 08:09 PM
you know Im sure you could find a decent stock front valance (steel) from a junkyard and then just cut the hole like the Shelby R apron -- itd fit for sure and still have the same look, plus itd be totally custom  
just a thought
Heck I could look in my local Stang-only junkyard if you like, hes got 5 or 6 65's (i think the '66 valance would work too, correct?)
have a good one, let me know  ------------------
CrAzY Dan~
1965 Coupe "BeeBop" 200ci Straight "6"~2.77 3-spd w/Hurst Shifter~Pertronix Elec. Ign.~Flamethrower Coil~Flex-Fan~Clifford 6-2 Header~26" Smithys~3" chrome tips~'85 T-Bird TC buckets~'66 guages
https://mustangsandmore.com//ubb/TheIceman.html
http://www.motorcities.com/contents/01GF9250033520.html
There's Nothing Wrong With A Little Six In A Classic Mustang! ;)
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DidgeyTrucker
Gearhead Posts: 939
From: Greenbrier, TN USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 01-13-2002 10:38 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SundanceKid:
Wonder why the aftermarket isn't stamping steel ones out?
They are. Stock valences, that is. The '65 and '66 are the same. The R-model valence sticks out as far as the bumper and could be made of metal if you are handy at fabrication. There's not enough market to justify making the dies for that. Tracy
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kcode
Gearhead Posts: 2456
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-13-2002 10:48 PM
I agree with Tracy, my past experience in die design, the cost to design and build a draw die to make the R-model apron from steel would be prohibitive for such a small market. Mike
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 5518
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 01-14-2002 08:07 AM
This may be hokey but...a friend of mine, on his 66, cut out an area the size of a license plate in his valance. Taking a nice chrome frame- he 'framed' a piece of black painted expanded metal lath, put a 68 Mustang script in the center, and mounted it. Behind, is a tranny cooler. I suppose you should have a larger area for a cooler but after seeing it, thought it was a good idea. On my 68, am going to see if I can frame an opening with 66 grille mouldings cut down. The 68 mouldings seems too deep.
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Stang28965
Gearhead Posts: 368
From: Webster New York USA
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 01-14-2002 06:06 PM
This is taken from this months mustangs and fast fords mag..."the folks at cobra Automotive have done lots of extra work to make the best Shelby-Style R-Model front apron avaliable for '65-'66 Mustangs. The "exact fit" front apron or valance panel features functional brake ducts, a super-smooth finish, and requires no body work or custom fitting."
http://www.cobraautomotive.com ------------------
-Jeff
1965 Mustang with a 289 bored .030" over. The 289 has a Holley 600cfm 4bbl, 302 heads, tri-y headers, Elgin cam .448int. 204deg, .472 exh 214deg. Eagle connecting rods, As for the drivetrain, I have a 4speed with 3.55 gears in the back.
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AKBOSSMAN
Gearhead Posts: 2811
From: WASILLA , AK USA M&M #743 MCA #40857
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-14-2002 09:19 PM
OK I was once like you!
I recieved a Bumper "R" valance for Christmas from a friend. I took off the undamaged factory one and the thing didn't even look close. I called the vendor (Branda) and they had not had a problem before (sure I thought). So I started measuring things and when the steel one was on the fiberglass one was the right size. So I called said friend and had him help. I used small clamps and some small plyer type clamps and slowly it came togather for a great fit. so grasshopper take your time it will fit . Get some clamps and a helper and relax. I'll post some pics on my site in a couple days and repost here so you can see them.
Mine was from www.cobranda.com------------------
WAYNE CURTIS
70 GRABBER GREEN BOSS 302
01 Sangria Red Focus ZX3
03 Boss 281 (waiting on order form)
92 SHELBY 4X4 (K-9 IDITAROD LEAD DOG)
If your under control then your not going fast enough" Parnelli Jones
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MidLifCrisis
Gearhead Posts: 205
From: USA
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 01-14-2002 09:43 PM
I have done exactly what you want. I took a stock valance and painted black the license plate area to the desired shape. Then cut it out with sheetmetal snips. Using a piece of cardboard I made a pattern to line the opening toward the radiator. Then cut 20gauge sheetmetal to the pattern adding tabs to spot weld behind the valance, before mig-welding the seam. I would use 24gauge metal next time. It is lighter and easier to work. The metal can be hand formed to the contures of the opening. It turned out great, for an novice attempt. Good luck and don't be afraid to expand your horizons. Charlie
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 853
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 01-14-2002 10:38 PM
The repro valances are cheap enough I could buy one of them if I didn't want to mess up my original one, Iceman thanks though. The one I have I actualy recieved free so I can't complain....well I did complain and I got the valance for free...long story. The brackets on the fiberglass don't even come close to matching the fenders the holes for the bumper brackets arent big enough even after some serious enlarging! the center scoop hit my lower radiator support so I trimmed it so that I wouldn't have a 3" gap between my fender and the too small brackets on the valance! It fits, but needs a little tweaking and I need to fiberglass what they (Maer Racing) didn't do. Basicly it looks like they pulled it from the form too quick and it sagged and warped! I just thought it would be neat to make a metal one and have people ask if it was a factory one? Thanks for your input as always. [This message has been edited by SundanceKid (edited 01-14-2002).]
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AKBOSSMAN
Gearhead Posts: 2811
From: WASILLA , AK USA M&M #743 MCA #40857
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-15-2002 04:08 AM
here you go
after the bolts are in
 and painted with car (Prarie Bronze)
note no F-O-R-D letters or hood chrome. also custom grill and gravel shield is cut to match
With pony and coral in see my rear lovers?
 I was going to cut the bumber and cap it but didn't get a chance. Hope these help ------------------
WAYNE CURTIS
70 GRABBER GREEN BOSS 302
01 Sangria Red Focus ZX3
03 Boss 281 (waiting on order form)
92 SHELBY 4X4 (K-9 IDITAROD LEAD DOG)
If your under control then your not going fast enough" Parnelli Jones
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 30756
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-15-2002 10:05 AM
That came out very good!------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC "Speed costs money. How fast do you want to spend?"
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 853
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 01-15-2002 04:00 PM
YEEESSS, it did come out nice! Cutting the bumper and capping it would be neat...kinda like a split bumper (dare I say) Camaro. That was the fiberglass one right? the problem I am haveing is the inner recess of the valance won't go above the lower radiator support or if it does the bottom of the valance is to high then. I cut the recess short so now it ends at the middle of the lower radiator support. I am hopefully going to buy some scrap 65 mesh from Joyce (HIPO&MORE) and use it for the valance. Let me bounce this off ya guys while I'm at it. What do you think if I stripped the paint off the mesh and left it natural aluminum?
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 853
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 01-15-2002 04:04 PM
Thanks for the pics!
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 30756
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-15-2002 04:04 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SundanceKid:
Let me bounce this off ya guys while I'm at it. What do you think if I stripped the paint off the mesh and left it natural aluminum?
That would look good. Maybe clearcoat it to prevent corrosion. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC "Speed costs money. How fast do you want to spend?"
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