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  Good or so-so 351W?

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Author Topic:   Good or so-so 351W?

Posts: 1746
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99

posted 01-11-2002 04:19 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback68   Click Here to Email Fastback68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I know there have been threads about this, but I can't find the right ones There are some issues about early versus mid-70s and later 351W's -- heads and pistons, I think. Well, I've got a bead on a 351W two-barrel from a '77 Clubwagon. On the sticker it says that it complies with EPA regs (bad!) for heavy duty engines (maybe good), and in bold letters it says NON-CATALYST (which must be good!) Before I start tearing the thing down, does this look like a loser or a winner?

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Posts: 254
From: Far and Away
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 01-11-2002 08:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluetech   Click Here to Email bluetech     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

I think pre '75 are better than the newer ones.

[This message has been edited by bluetech (edited 01-11-2002).]

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Posts: 592
From: Rowlett,Texas
Registered: Aug 99

posted 01-11-2002 09:58 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Clark   Click Here to Email Clark     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Sorry, I have to say loser. The block and rods might be worth something but that is about it.
The guy that machined my 69 block is still cusing me about how hard the metal was. Try and find an older one but I know they are getting harder to find.

69 351W Sportsroof Deluxe

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Posts: 110
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 01-11-2002 01:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rustang1   Click Here to Email Rustang1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It all depends on what level you're building at. You can definitely see a difference in the main webs between early blocks and late, and 1977 would fall in the late catagory. Early blocks are alot heavier. Crank should be okay, late model rods should be better than early because of spotfaced bolt seats as opposed to broach cut early units. (Although I suspect the early rods may be better material. I remember grinding on a set of early rods compared to late and the early seemed to be harder to cut.) More than likely the heads are large chambered smog units with 302 size (small) valves. The way I always identified the smog heads was by looking at the spark plugs (early units take a 13/16" socket instead of 5/8") and the early units had press in rocker studs and cast rockers as opposed to bolt down stamped rockers.
Bottom line is at something like the
300-350hp level that motor should live forever with existing rods/block/crank. If you're looking at something like 450hp+, you're starting to get on the ragged edge and may need to spend some coin on stouter stuff

1968 Mustang,Clevor,C4
1969 Torino 351C 4spd
1978 F150 460 C6
1978 F150 351W C6

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