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  '64 1/2 to '73 -- The Classic Mustang
  Rear Main Seal

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Author Topic:   Rear Main Seal
Wicked-Toy
Gearhead

Posts: 175
From: Richmond, VA USA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 01-09-2002 12:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Wicked-Toy   Click Here to Email Wicked-Toy     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
A buddy has a 65 coupe with a 69 302 engine.
The rear main seal is leaking pretty bad and
he wnats my help changing it out. I have done it with the older "rope" seal but not with the newer rubber seal which I believe this engine has. Can it still be done by just dropping the pan and removing the rear main cap.

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Scott Akom
65 Coupe (Modified)
68 Coupe (Son's)
2000 GT Conv. (Wifes)
1987 GT Conv. (Son's)
1966 Project Conv.[URL=http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/3845/65dsde2.jpg
www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/WickedToy.html

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 01-09-2002 07:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yes. The rubber is even easier than the rope seal. Remember to orient the seal with the lip pointing to the center of the engine, and to offset it 1/4"

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

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Wicked-Toy
Gearhead

Posts: 175
From: Richmond, VA USA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 01-10-2002 10:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Wicked-Toy   Click Here to Email Wicked-Toy     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Steve I thought that it probably could be done.

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Scott Akom
65 Coupe (Modified)
68 Coupe (Son's)
2000 GT Conv. (Wifes)
1987 GT Conv. (Son's)
1966 Project Conv.[URL=http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/3845/65dsde2.jpg
www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/WickedToy.html

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Dave_C
Gearhead

Posts: 755
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99

posted 01-10-2002 11:10 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave_C   Click Here to Email Dave_C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Don't forget to pull the pin fromthe main cap. If it's still got the rope seal the rear main cap will have a small pin about the size of a nail. Sticks out about an 1/8". It keeps the rope seal in place, but will tear the rubber seal.

Grab it with some vice grips and it will come out easily. I use a dab of silicone to seal the hole.

Later,

David Cole

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Wicked-Toy
Gearhead

Posts: 175
From: Richmond, VA USA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 01-14-2002 07:26 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Wicked-Toy   Click Here to Email Wicked-Toy     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I also assume if it has the rubber type seal that you will be able to get a grip on the top half and give it a yank and it will come out. Is this true. How difficult to get that top piece back in around the crank.

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Scott Akom
65 Coupe (Modified)
68 Coupe (Son's)
2000 GT Conv. (Wifes)
1987 GT Conv. (Son's)
1966 Project Conv.[URL=http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/3845/65dsde2.jpg
www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/WickedToy.html

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 01-14-2002 08:21 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It's not too bad. 2/3 of it will go in easy, you just have to be careful not to bend it on the last 1/3. Sometimes you have to loosen the main bolts, but not often. When I worked on Buicks, this was a common job.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

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