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Author
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Topic: Where to start...?
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mvendl
Journeyman Posts: 89
From: Lowell, IN, USA
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-02-2002 02:18 PM
   
Hello all,As I've posted before, Ive recently become the proud papa of a beautiful but rough... err, really rough 1966 coupe. It needs alot of work though, and I'm looking for some advice as to where to start. I've already torn the engine down to where there's only 4 bolts and its out. I've also removed seats and ripped out the carpeting. In doing that I've found that I need to completely replace the floor pans... someone took galvanized sheet metal (ventilation ducting) and welded it to the drivers side floor pan to patch a hole. In any case, here's a short list of what I need to do... where should I start? I need new quarter panels, wheelhouse assemblies, rocker panels , floor pans, front frame rails, RH fender, the trunk is a mess... so a new tank as well... and other misc body parts here and there... It also needs various work on the suspension and brakes, etc.... I know it sounds like alot of work, and it probably is, but I really think it's worth saving and I'm in no hurry... but I want it done the right way, no slapping it together. To make a long story short, whaddya think? I'm working on getting some digital pic's, maybe that'll help. Thanks, --mark
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 24286
From: Saco, Maine Toys: '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-02-2002 03:03 PM
From the bottom up, buddy!  Frame rails, then rocker panels, then floor pans... ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
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johnmustang
Gearhead Posts: 1727
From: Vancouver Island , British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 01-02-2002 03:14 PM
I agree with steve , from the bottom up. That is what I did with my 68, only took about 2 - 2 1/2 years to finish. At least I know it was done correctly. Take your time and have some fun. JOHN  ------------------
65 2+2 FASTBACK
68 COUPE
87 TAURUS WAGON
98 F150 XLT TRITON V8 4.6, 4 WHEEL DRIVE
Member: Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
MyPhotoPage
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mvendl
Journeyman Posts: 89
From: Lowell, IN, USA
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-02-2002 03:22 PM
Sounds good... here's another question... In pricing out Front Frame rails, I'm looking at the Mustang's Unlimited catalog and they have Full Frame Rails (Inner & Outer) for $129, and they also list Inner Floor Frame Rails (front floor support) for 26.95 as separate items. I guess I'm not sure which would be the right one... I would think the full front frame rail would be right... Can anyone explain this to me? sorry if it's a stupid question... If it helps, it looks like a previous owner took a jump or something a little too fast and caved the frame rails in about 1' from the back... or where then end under the driver's feet... hope the description helps. --mark
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Stang28965
Gearhead Posts: 353
From: Webster New York USA
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 01-02-2002 05:24 PM
the ones that are 26.95 are welded to the ends of the full front frame rails. and the rest is welded to the floor pan. I'd say if you need full rails in the front you are going to need the 26.95 ones as well. Hope this helps.
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cynot65
Gearhead Posts: 855
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 01-04-2002 07:34 AM
Mark, You sound like me 2 years ago. Steve,I mean, the Big Guy is right. You absolutely must start from thr frame rails and work your way up. I might suggest that you find yourself (if you don't weld yourself that is) a qualified person to weld these parts in for you. Pictures? I've got pictures that will curl your skin of the 65 that I own and love, My car is a few weeks away from going to the body shop and let me tell you the road is long and costly. You say you you're in no hurry and that is good if you stick to it. I felt the same way by saying that I knew my car was worth saving. I had a few shaking heads along the way though. but I look at it this way. When I roll that baby out this spring, no summer, no spring, spring yeah spring I am going to be one happy classic Mustang Driver. Stay the course ask lots of questions and if there is one thing that I will suggest to you is to get yourself a couple of really big heavy duty boxes, a few boxes of Zip lock storage bags and a couple of Sharpies so you can CATALOGUE EVERYTHING you take off your car.Good luck and have fun
Tony C*------------------
65 Convertible 289 4spd
M&M Member#450
It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!!
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mvendl
Journeyman Posts: 89
From: Lowell, IN, USA
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-04-2002 09:16 AM
Tony,Thanks for the advice... I've had more than a few people tell me that I'm nuts... especially my wife. But, then again, it ain't her car.. In any case, from the other posts, I guess that's what I'm going to do. I can do the welding but I'm not sure if its worth the time. I've looked at KAR mustang's website and I think that they may be the best route, at least for the frame and floor pan work. When I get some pic's, I'll put them up on the web for all to see. Thanks, --mark
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cynot65
Gearhead Posts: 855
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 01-04-2002 01:47 PM
Mark,
Yuo know what? My wife told me I was nuts too...last week though she complimented by saying "You know, it's looking like a real car again"
Tony C*
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RagTop
Journeyman Posts: 18
From: Pleasanton, CA, USA
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 01-04-2002 02:43 PM
Tony C* should be a source of encouragement, but I've got to wonder why you would go to the lengths you will have to to save a 65 coupe. Tony C* is resurecting a 65 4 speed convertible which will have a significant value when restored, but a coupe will not have the kind of value potential that would justify the investment. I don't mean to bum you out, but is the result worth the effort?------------------
69 Meadowlark Yellow convertible, 302(308)/4V
69 Royal Maroon SportsRoof, 351W(363)/4V
00 Pewter Camaro Z28, LS1
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 24286
From: Saco, Maine Toys: '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-04-2002 05:23 PM
Sure it is. Some of us would rather have a coupe than a convertible. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
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mvendl
Journeyman Posts: 89
From: Lowell, IN, USA
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-07-2002 09:24 AM
Ragtop...Value really doesnt matter to me. Its more that its a vintage mustang. I dont plan on selling it, so a 66 coupe is fine for me.. --mark
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cynot65
Gearhead Posts: 855
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 01-07-2002 03:36 PM
Ragtop, Not only do I agree to resurecting ANY clasic Mustang, but I also had additional incentive because the car I bought also has a Removable Hartop. If you do any research you'll find that this may be one of the rarest options never to be offered on a production Stang. These tops were only used during the prototype stages and then were left off the production options. You can find some info on these tops, but like the tops themselves, it is hard to find. You can see a photo of mine in the members gallery.
Tony C*------------------
65 Convertible 289 4spd
M&M Member#450
It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!!
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SuperDave
Gearhead Posts: 118
From: Tacoma, WA USA
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 01-07-2002 07:51 PM
Ever the realist, I'd sit myself down and start figuring just how much money I would be willing to put into this project. Add to it the value of your time, if that is a consideration. You are looking at a project that will take years, especially if you have to save up the money to buy the parts. Do you have that much patience?I've been into Mustangs from the beginning and I've owned quite a few, fourteen to be exact. I've also seen a lot of people start project like yours only to find out the time and money required are simply too much. I guarantee you that if you do it "once piece at a time" you'll get sick of it in short order.
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