Author
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Topic: Car shuts off while running!!
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'69PonyRider Gearhead Posts: 138 From: Hawthorne, CA Registered: Sep 2001
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posted 01-01-2002 10:58 PM
Well this problem is very frustrating, i just got the car a few months ago and now that i started driving it around, the car shuts off while its moving! Could that be because a short somewhere? The car has trouble turning on, like if the battery is going dead, could that be connected with shutting off? One other thing....the car has a kill switch but the car will only turn on if the car is in neutral(automatic) is that part of the switch or is there something wrong with that? thanx.
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V8 Thumper Gearhead Posts: 3267 From: Orange, Ca. United States of America Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-01-2002 11:28 PM
hmmm... is that kill switch a coil interrupter? I'd be suspicious of the switch, can it just to experiment... "Has trouble turning on, like the batt. is going dead" Do you have access to a load tester? Are the terminals green and fuzzy? Clean those babies good... 12 volt systems don't operate very well without 12 volts
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V8 Thumper Gearhead Posts: 3267 From: Orange, Ca. United States of America Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-01-2002 11:34 PM
--------------------------------------------- [QUOTE]Originally posted by '69PonyRider:...the car will only turn on if the car is in neutral(automatic) is that part of the switch or is there something wrong with that? --------------------------------------------- That is a neutral safety switch, located on the driver's side of the trans, disables starter motor function only as far as I know. Anyone else?
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'69PonyRider Gearhead Posts: 138 From: Hawthorne, CA Registered: Sep 2001
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posted 01-01-2002 11:50 PM
Well V8 i have no idea what kind of kill switch it is, if it helps the car will only shut off if i switch off the switch. So the tranny switch is seperate from the engine switch?? If i were to take the engine one off the tranny will still need to be in neutral to turn on?
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Fastback68 Gearhead Posts: 1564 From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines Registered: Jul 99
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posted 01-02-2002 12:01 AM
The neutral switch should enable you to start it in park. When I had a bad neutral switch, I could only start in neutral. Simon
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'69PonyRider Gearhead Posts: 138 From: Hawthorne, CA Registered: Sep 2001
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posted 01-02-2002 12:07 AM
How could i check if the switch is bad? would that be a bad connection? I am not familiar with kill switches. dont forget my biggest problem, any comments on why the car shuts off?
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V8 Thumper Gearhead Posts: 3267 From: Orange, Ca. United States of America Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-02-2002 12:17 AM
--------------------------------------------- [QUOTE]Originally posted by '69PonyRider: "...if it helps the car will only shut off if i switch off the switch." --------------------------------------------- The kill switch, right? (not the key switch) Could be a bad lock cylinder(key switch). I personally would still loose the kill switch, eliminate one possibility. --------------------------------------------- "So the tranny switch is seperate from the engine switch?? If i were to take the engine one off the tranny will still need to be in neutral to turn on?" --------------------------------------------- Yes, the two switches are independent, and you probably will still need to start it in neutral... like Fastback68 said. Sounds like neutral (trans) switch is bad for sure, but shouldn't kill the motor, just won't let you crank it over in park.
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 32655 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 01-02-2002 12:57 PM
When the engine stalls, put a voltmeter at the positive wire at the coil and check for voltage.------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip '97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
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'69PonyRider Gearhead Posts: 138 From: Hawthorne, CA Registered: Sep 2001
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posted 01-02-2002 10:44 PM
Ok im sorry im getting confused with all this switch talk, let me get this straight...i have two seperate "kill switches" the neutral switch, and one to the engine, right? but i only have one physical switch in the car(in[off] and out[on]). that controls what?? heres why im confused...i tried turning on the car with the switch in[off] and the tranny in park, nothing. i tried the switch out[on] and in park, nothing. i tried it in[off] and in neutral, IT CRANKS! but wont turn on. so the switch in the car doesnt control the starter motor it must control the distributor or the coil, right? then finally the car turns on with the switch out[on] and the tranny in neutral. so the tranny switch controls the starter and the physical switch in the car controls the distributor. im so confused! please set me straight somebody. also one other thing, the tranny doesnt hook onto park at all. when in park i can push the car back and it moves and i hear a continous clicking noise. could that be why the neutral switch wont hook on in park?
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pthornton Gearhead Posts: 588 From: Austin, TX USA Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-02-2002 11:10 PM
If the car rolls and clicks in park then the auto linkage is not adjusted correctly. That probably has nothing to do with the car shutting off. The neutral switch probably has nothing to do with the stall either. My car would cut out at random also, turned out to be the ground wire to the rev limiter had a break in it. Your car doesn't have a rev limiter so that is one less thing you will have to check.------------------ Boss 302 & Saleen S281 [This message has been edited by pthornton (edited 01-02-2002).]
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67 Fastback Gearhead Posts: 680 From: Beaverton, Oregon Registered: Aug 99
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posted 01-03-2002 04:11 AM
Ok, my 1.5 cents.. Two things come to mind based on seemingly two issues?1) As to the drive and die on the road: Coil? Consider swapping out the coil, and see what happens. Could be Old coil dies when gets too warm (aka operating temp). 2) As to Start in Park and Neutral vs. only Neutral: Neutral-Starting switch bad? A best guess.. Good luck! ------------------ Jerry www.67Fastback.com "The danger in communication is the illusion that it has been accomplished." G.B. Shaw
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V8 Thumper Gearhead Posts: 3267 From: Orange, Ca. United States of America Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-03-2002 08:33 AM
--------------------------------------------- " so the switch in the car doesnt control the starter motor it must control the distributor or the coil, right? " --------------------------------------------- Correct. --------------------------------------------- " so the tranny switch controls the starter and the physical switch in the car controls the distributor." --------------------------------------------- Correct again!
I know it's frustrating... try to take it one step at a time. Eliminate whatever posibilites you can, and start at the begining. What are we dealing with here? A 12 volt system 'malfunction'. First and foremost... DO YOU HAVE 12 FULL VOLTS? In your first post, you said something about the car cranking slowly... you wouldn't believe all the problems low voltage can cause. I'd start there... clean the batt. terminals. See how the car cranks/starts/runs, may (or may not) solve one or more of your problems. Then, go from there. IMPORTANT: If you get frustrated, take a break, walk away from it for a while. You'd be suprised how much better you do after taking five.
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RagTop Journeyman Posts: 18 From: Pleasanton, CA, USA Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 01-04-2002 02:58 PM
quote: Originally posted by '69PonyRider: Ok im sorry im getting confused with all this switch talk
The neutral safety switch is part of the stock electrical system on your Mustang. It will only allow the car to start in Park or Neutral. On the 69 it is also the backup light switch. I've had to replace the NSS on both of our 69's. One for similar starting problems to yours on the FMX and one for backup light failure on the C4. If your backups are still working the NSS may just need adjustment. Usually they will not start in Park if they are not aligned properly. For all the trouble you may as well buy a fresh switch for around $25 and install it while you are in there. The kill switch was probably installed by a P.O. to frustrate theives. Bypass the switch and see if the dying problem persists. If so, you may want to replace the coil as the cheapest possability. I had the same problem with a Pinto whose coil tested just fine. It would die at operating temperature and would restart after cooling down. Replaced it and the problem went away. ------------------ Regards, RagTop 69 Meadowlark Yellow convertible, 302(308)/4V 69 Royal Maroon SportsRoof, 351W(363)/4V 00 Pewter Camaro Z28, LS1 [This message has been edited by RagTop (edited 01-04-2002).]
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