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Author Topic:   Header help for 65 mustang

Posts: 109
From: Tyler, TX, USA
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 12-27-2001 11:06 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bgseib   Click Here to Email bgseib     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have a '65 fastback with a 289 bored out to a 302. I put the tri-y headers on when I installed the rebuilt engine, and they were a b*&ch to put on. Now I have a header leak on the number 8 cylinder, and I can not move the header around enough to replace the gasket!! And what I really want to know is are there better headers to try that ARE easier to install (as far as having room on both sides of the engine bay)? Basically I have less than an inch between the headers and the interior engine compartment walls...


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Posts: 411
From: Webster New York USA
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 12-27-2001 11:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stang28965   Click Here to Email Stang28965     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
For a 65 Mustang having a inch room is pretty good! I had flowtechs on and they rubbed the drivers side shock tower and then started leaking at the flange

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Posts: 3981
From: Prospect, Ct. M&M Member No. 31 MCA Member 49299
Registered: Jun 99

posted 12-27-2001 11:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ken   Click Here to Email Ken     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Brian, welcome to the website !!! I have long tube Tri-Y headers on my 1965 / 302ci with GT40 heads and I only have about 1/8 of an inch clearance at the shock tower on the drivers side. And thats after shimming the motor mounts to level off the engine !!! I honestly can't tell you what headers would give you more clearance but I think you should have enough room to slide the headers around enough as long as they're diconnected at both ends .

Conciousness - that annoying time between naps.

1965 Springtime Yellow Coupe
Edlebrock RPM Air Gap
670cfm Holley Street Avenger
and much, much MORE !!!

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Posts: 244
From: mountain home, idaho
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 12-27-2001 03:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for thedave66   Click Here to Email thedave66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have a set of hedman headers on my 66 and haven't had any problems with them aside that i had to remove all the clutch stuff to get the driver side one in. I have enough clearance to change the gaskets if need be. I like them.


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Posts: 2623
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 12-27-2001 11:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Welcome to Mustang and More.

As far as headers, I've found that the Tri-Y have more clearance than any header I've ever tried. My first set had the Shelby part number of S1msxxxxx, or something like that and I had to grind a notch in the bellhousing on the passenger side. I've got Hedmans on my 65 coupe and Hookers on my wifes 66, both fit very well.

To get a bit more clearance to change gaskets, remove the bolts from the motor mounts and gently raise the motor with a bottle jack and a block of wood under the oil pan. Is you car a power steering car?

Mike Golliver
MCA Assistant National Head Judge-Modifieds
65 Kcode coupe 347 stroker modified 5-speed MCA Retired
66 convertible-3 dueces and a 5-speed with a 289
65 Fastback -GT-350H Clone SOLD IT 7/21/01
89 T-Bird Super coupe
01 Mustang GT Convt

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Posts: 280
From: Moore, OK USA
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 12-29-2001 08:40 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jeff   Click Here to Email Jeff     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I just put a set of Hooker Comp long tube headers on my '65 (FRPP 302, '69 bell housing and T5 trans). The headers fit well and accommodated the clutch linkage z-bar. Since my engine is late model, I use the California Pony Cars clutch pivot adapter (this pivot adapter is custom made and is 3/8 longer than the standard product - required because I use the 164 tooth bell housing). Clearance on the sides is over 1" but then I cut out the sides of the shock tower for an "L" shaped gusset. There looks to be clearance without this modification but looks can be deceiving. These headers can only be installed from the bottom with clutch linkage and spark plugs temporarily removed. The clutch pivot adapter needed some metal removed with grinder as it contacted the 4L tube. A crescent was ground into the adapter without losing any strength and once this was done, everything was copesetic.

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Posts: 11
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 12-30-2001 05:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jond     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I've been thinking about getting a set of tri-ys when I replace the exhaust. Is it possible to install them with the engine in the car?

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Posts: 1746
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99

posted 12-30-2001 11:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback68   Click Here to Email Fastback68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Just out of curiosity, what do you all mean when you say Tri-Y's? I have a 1991 catalogue in which there are Tri-Y's that it says were put in Shelbies, and then there are Doug Thorley Tri-Y's. Now I have the new Thorley Tri-Y's, which look very different from either of the above.
Also, Jeff, you have me stumped What is the meaning of "copesetic"?

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Posts: 109
From: Tyler, TX, USA
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 12-31-2001 12:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bgseib   Click Here to Email bgseib     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
KCode - My car is a auto with power steering.. I am using the tri-y's from a mustang store (mustangs plus).. So they are the basic ones... A quick question for anyone... Is it possible to take them out with the engine in?? I want to take them out and sand them then paint them and put them back.....


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Posts: 745
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 12-31-2001 02:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'm assumming you guys have the same clearance issues I do. I can get my headers out with the motor in but I have to jack the car way up and remove them from the bottom.

If it is still a little tight you can loosen the motor mounts a bit and get a little bit of room by jacking up the motor slightly.

I have JBA long tubes that required a lot of dings before I could get them to fit. I think it took me about 20 hours because of how long it takes to get them in and out.

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Posts: 19751
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 12-31-2001 03:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Long tube Tri-Y'shave the best fit of any long tube headers that I know of. Tri-Y's can be installed with the engine in the car.
Tri-Y's have the front two and rear tubes on each side adjoining. They then merge again into the collector creating the "TRI "Y" effect.

Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00 & '01
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link

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V8 Thumper

Posts: 3529
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 01-01-2002 12:45 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Originally posted by bgseib:
I want to take them out and sand them then paint them and put them back.....

Even the 'high heat' paint dosen't last long... at least I've never had any luck with it. It blisters and peels quick, all that work for nothing. Ceramic coating is an option, allthough much more $$$. Lasts a long time and looks bitchin'

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