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  Where do you jack up car to help spread shock towers for EXPORT BRACE installation?

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Author Topic:   Where do you jack up car to help spread shock towers for EXPORT BRACE installation?
MDF99
Gearhead

Posts: 201
From: Hamilton, Ohio, USA
Registered: May 2001

posted 12-22-2001 11:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for MDF99   Click Here to Email MDF99     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yup, I'm gonna try to install this thing in my 66 Coupe again while the motor is out of the car. Last time I tried it I was using a bottle jack to help spread the shock towers and it was starting to bend the metal so I gave it up. Where do you jack up the car to help spread the shock towers? Any other tips? THANKS!!

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Fastback68
Gearhead

Posts: 1746
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99

posted 12-23-2001 12:06 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback68   Click Here to Email Fastback68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Gulp! I think I put my jacks on the inside ends of the lower control arms, but it didn't work. Then I tried the trick of putting heavy weights on the fenders and that didn't work either. In fact it was starting to cause damage. After a week of subjecting my car to pain and suffering, I noticed that one of the studs in the top of a shock tower was welded into place, so I'd actually been wasting my time trying to stretch the car so the stud would line up with the brace. So that's my tip -- check those studs on top of the shock towers move freely.

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kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 2623
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 12-23-2001 12:14 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
One place suggested raising the car by the tubular crossmember that runs under the oil pan and allow the car to sit for a couple of hours to settle in, it makes sense. I have had to elongate the holes on three different cars to make them work. Don't expect alot of movement. Then a trip to the alignment shop should follow shortly.

Mike

[This message has been edited by kcode (edited 12-23-2001).]

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6602
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 12-23-2001 12:18 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Matt,

You can use a port-a-power with the engine out. As far as your question, jack it up with a floor jack in the middle of the crossmember. Good luck,

SteveW

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Dr. Who
Gearhead

Posts: 164
From: Redwood City, Ca.
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 12-23-2001 12:19 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dr. Who   Click Here to Email Dr. Who     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Jack the car up from wherever and rest the car on stands just about even with the front edge of the doors, it works best with the engine in for weight.

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MDF99
Gearhead

Posts: 201
From: Hamilton, Ohio, USA
Registered: May 2001

posted 12-23-2001 01:32 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for MDF99   Click Here to Email MDF99     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Is the port-a-power tool like a hydraulic ram or something, are they commonly available at those rental places? Also, Steve are you talking about the front crossmember that runs below the radiator? Thanks!

Matt

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 12-23-2001 08:18 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I've been lucky, I guess. Have done a few. Have always started at shock towers and done cowl last using a large pry bar. On one, did use a port-a-power. By using wood for "padding" the ram can be placed where the monte carlo bar would be, remove dist cap and slowly spread-doesn't take much! Has anyone pulled an engine leaving brace in? Mike: Pic of your convert looks good.

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n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 1590
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 12-23-2001 09:43 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike   Click Here to Email n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If I'm not mistaken, the tops of the shock towers should be 33 1/2" apart.

Can anyone confirm this measurement?

Thanks!

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 12-23-2001 10:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Mike: From center of shock to center of shock, my 65 is exactly 33 1/2.

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MDF99
Gearhead

Posts: 201
From: Hamilton, Ohio, USA
Registered: May 2001

posted 12-23-2001 12:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for MDF99   Click Here to Email MDF99     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I was able to pull my motor out with the stock 2 piece brace in place. I took the C4 out seperately. There was plenty of room. I'm planning to drop the motor back in with the 1 piece brace in place so I hope it all goes well.

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6602
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 12-23-2001 09:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MDF99:
Is the port-a-power tool like a hydraulic ram or something, are they commonly available at those rental places?

Matt


Yep, good luck & Merry Christmeas.


SteveW

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 12-24-2001 07:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Must be an early Mustang thing. I've even driven my Sprint without the struts for years and the shock towers never moved.

------------------

'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

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