CONFUSION #1:
First of all, I don't wanna adjust the rockers while the engine is running. Even though this seems to be the easiest and best way, the truth is, I can't tell when the darn rocker is clacking and when it's not! I even listened with a stethoscope! I know I'm an idiot, but I just can't tell the difference...unless I'm supposed to loosen the nut until the rocker is just about to fall off!!!

CONFUSION #2:
I decided to do the valve adjustment using the non-running method. I manually rotated my crankshaft until I reached TDC on the #1 piston. I adjusted the rocker nut of the intake valve until I could no longer turn the pushrod with my fingers. Then I turned the nut an additional 1/4 turn. I did the same thing with the #1 piston exhaust valve, and now I can turn the pushrod on the intake valve again! Is this normal? Aren't I supposed to adjust the intake and exhaust valves of a cylinder AT THE SAME TIME?

CONFUSION #2:
I think a couple of guys have said to adjust the valves of each piston, FOLLOWING THE FIRING ORDER. They have said to mark the crankshaft pulley at 90-degree intervals, starting with the #1 piston at TDC.

But my Ford shop manual has an alternative method.

First, get the #1 piston at TDC, and adjust the intake and exhaust valves on the #1 piston (once again, do I do both valves at the same time?). Then, remove the distributor cap. Rotate the crankshaft until the breaker points are on the next peak of the hexagonal distributor cam lobe and adjust the next piston in the firing order. Is this just as effective? It seems that it is to me, but when my #1 piston is at TDC, the breaker points are NOT on a peak...they are on a flat spot on the distributor cam!!! WHAT'S GOING ON?

CONFUSION #3:
When I watch my engine running with the valve covers off, I can see most of the pushrods twirling around. Some of them don't twirl around. What is correct? It seems to me that it should matter one way or the other, at least to a certain degree. Does it matter?

PLEASE HELP ME GET MY VALVES ADJUSTED! I think this is part of my delayed oil pressure problem that I discussed earlier!

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*andy* ([email protected])

also known as...***Boss Hoss***

quote:

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Originally posted by Moneymaker:
Turn the engine over by hand untill the exhaust rocker just makes contact with the exhaust valve. Turn the engine another 1/4 INCH.

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Alex:
Thanks a lot for the helpful information! Since it is painfully obvious that I am very easily confused, I want to make double sure about a couple of things:

1) Just for my own information, when the exhaust rocker just makes contact with the exhaust valve stem, what is the relationship to that piston's TDC position? Is the piston at TDC at that point?

2) Secondly, you did mean to say turn the ENGINE 1/4 inch...not the exhaust rocker nut, correct?

I'm such a dummy about this!

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*andy* ([email protected])

also known as...***Boss Hoss***

http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.htm

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*andy* ([email protected])

also known as...***Boss Hoss***

His procedure calls for adjusting the intake or exhaust valve on a particular cylinder when the opposing cylinder in the firing order has the valve at "max lift". That is a major pain since you don't know where max lift is exactly, and watching the valves move is annoying and imprecise. It is not important that the valve is EXACTLY at max lift, what is important is that the valve you are trying to adjust has the lifter on the cam's base circle.

The "opposing" cylinders for the 289 are:
1 <-> 6
5 <-> 3
4 <-> 7
2 <-> 8

All that means is that whatever position piston #1 is in, piston #6 is in the exact same position in the block, but doing the alternate action in the four stroke sequence. When #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke, #6 is at TDC at overlap, etc.

Let's look at where everything is when #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke using the 289 firing order:

#1: TDC Compression (TDCC)
#5: 90 deg BTC on compression
#4: BDC of intake stroke
#2: 90 deg ATC on intake stroke
#6: TDC at overlap
#3: 90 deg BTC on exhaust stroke
#7: BDC on power stroke
#8: 90 ATC on power stroke

So in this position, cylinder #2 is halfway through it's intake stroke, meaning that it's intake valve has got to be very close to being fully open. Also, cylinder #3 is halfway through it's exhaust stroke, which means that it's exhaust valve has to be very close to being fully open. So, using the "opposing cylinder" strategy, the cylinder opposite #2 is #8. That means that #8's intake lifer should be on the base circle. The cylinder opposite #3 is #5 which means that #5's exhaust lifter should be on the base circle.

OK then, we have determined that when #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke, there are two valves whose lifters are on the cam's base circle and can be adjusted, one intake (#8) and one exhaust (#5). Each time we turn the crank 90 degrees, moving to the next cylinder in the firing order, two more valves can be adjusted, one intake and one exhaust. By the time we have turned the crank 720 degrees (two full turns) we have all the valves adjusted.

So what makes this easier? Well, it is really easy to find TDC on #1 using the timing pointer on the harmonic balancer. Also, almost all performance balancers have every 90 degrees of crank rotation marked on them at the very least, so it is easy to turn the crank in 90 degree increments. If the balancer is NOT marked, it is trivial to mark it yourself with a ruler and a Sharpie pen.

So the whole sequence for the 289 is:
Cyl @ Adjust Adjust
TDCC Intake Exhaust
#1 #8 #5
#5 #1 #4
#4 #5 #2
#2 #4 #6
#6 #2 #3
#3 #6 #7
#7 #3 #8
#8 #7 #1

If you notice, it is really easy to remember this pattern if you know the firing order. For every cylinder at TDC compression, you adjust the intake valve of the previous cylinder and the exhaust valve of the next cylinder in the firing order. And it does not matter WHAT the firing order is, or whose engine it is, Ford, Mopar, Chevy, whatever, as long as it is a 90 degree V8, this will work.

I also found this source for valve adjustment information, with a slightly different set of rules:

http://www.cranecams.com/master/adjustvt.htm

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*andy* ([email protected])

also known as...***Boss Hoss***

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00 & '01
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link

How much of a difference does engine temperature make when you set the valves?

I set the valves using your method after the engine had been running for a few minutes. Some have told me that the engine MUST be hot, and others have said that the engine can be ice-cold...which is correct?

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*andy* ([email protected])

also known as...***Boss Hoss***

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