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Author
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Topic: Wanting To Buy Fastback, Questions?
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TrevorK
Journeyman Posts: 4
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-09-2001 06:21 PM
   
OK, I talked my dad into teaching me how to restore old cars, and he said if I can find one that'll be worth it he'll show me how. I was thinking along the lines of a Fastback or Mach 1 (I actually like them better than the Camaro's). Now, I have no idea about the horsepower ratings, etc...I know this time frame was right around when all the pollution/emissions stuff came about, which I'm sure caused a huge lose in HP. Anyone got year-by-year figures on this? Anything I should know? Stay away from? Anyone have one that I could buy? (Had to try) I think if I can't find one local I might try the southern states (Rust free then), I can get it delivered cheap enough ($500-$600 Canadian). I just have to get over the fact I'll be buying a car from a complete stranger without ever seeing it.... Thanks guys, hopefully within some a couple months I'll post pics of the ones I can find. Trevor
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SuperDave
Gearhead Posts: 123
From: Tacoma, WA USA
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 12-09-2001 07:53 PM
Emission controls didn't become too bad until the '73's. Many of these cars are now old enough that they don't have to pass semi-annual state mandated tests so the noxious equipment has been removed.Be prepared to pay big dollars for a fastback as they are nearly as valueable as convertibles. Mach I's also fetch a hansome price as compared to coupes. A "rust-free" Mustang is an illusion. They all have some rust; it is just a matter of how much. Good luck in your search. Buy the best car you can possibly afford because it is much less expensive than trying to rebuild a rust bucket or a basket case. Even doing your own work, you'll likely spend more money than you would if you bought a comparable finished car to begin with. The satisfaction of restoring your own car doesn't make economic sense but you'll learn a lot along the way.
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TrevorK
Journeyman Posts: 4
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-10-2001 12:05 AM
That is exactly my goal, is to learn how to restore a car, so I realize that it will end up costing more, and I will make a lot of mistakes that I need to learn from. All the work except upholstry will be done by me and my dad, so it'll keep costs somewhat under control...I actually plan on stripping all emissions out of the car, since there's no testing here. However, I thought that maybe engines that are emissions-controlled might have lower compression pistons, thus causing a huge power loss....
Trevor
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SuperDave
Gearhead Posts: 123
From: Tacoma, WA USA
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 12-10-2001 10:34 AM
Remember that you can't just strip off emissions equipment and have the car run correctly. Since you are talking about cars roughly thirty years old, chances are that the one that you select will already have a fresh engine (or need one soon)and the emissions issue will have been or can soon be addressed.Body work is just plain EXPENSIVE unless you can do the work yourself. I'd check the availability of any needed body parts before I bought a car needing such work. Some year Mustangs ('65-'68) enjoy much better parts availability than others. Reproduction body panels are very rarely worth the "savings" because they simply don't fit right and the labor cost to install them will quickly eat up what you thought you saved. You might start by obtaining catalogs from the many Mustang vendors here on the Web.
You'll need a good place to work, like a garage, and a fairly good selection of hand tools. I highly recommend getting a reprint of the FORD factory shop manual for any Mustang that you buy. Don't bother with a Haynes or Chilton's manual because the information is just not adequate. Reprints are available from the vendors.
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mustangs68
Moderator Posts: 18183
From: Hampton,Virginia,USA MCA#39406 M&M #12
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-10-2001 03:58 PM
1968 Fastback the way to go..even God drives one 
------------------
Sam
The 1968 Ford Mustang
www.1968mustang.org Attention:
No trees were killed in the posting of this message. However
a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 12-10-2001 04:52 PM
quote:
Originally posted by mustangs68:
1968 Fastback the way to go..even God drives one
I hate to ask, but....what color????
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mustangs68
Moderator Posts: 18183
From: Hampton,Virginia,USA MCA#39406 M&M #12
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-10-2001 06:00 PM
Any color
but silver would be my choice if pressed
sam
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Dave Gibson
Moderator Posts: 7549
From: Norfolk, Virginia, USA M&M#166 MCA#47921
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 12-10-2001 07:47 PM
Trevor,
Shop around. You never know what you will find available.  As a matter of fact, there is a 1969 Mach 1 for sale in the local paper. It's ready to be put back together for $7,500.00. It was listed three weeks ago for $10,500.00. Or shop around like Terri and I did. We ended up buying the Mustang you currently see on the home page.   A set of Jim Osborn manuals are a great asset for restoring your classic mustang. The detail is awesome and all the part numbers are listed. Don't forget to ask lots of questions.Dave & Terri ------------------
Poison Ivy (Dave's)
'65 Fastback Modified 289 4V, C-4, dual exhaust, styled steel wheels, rally pac, A/C
Blue Belle (Terri's)
'66 Coupe, Silver Blue Metallic, 351W 2-V, 4 speed, A/C, future sleeper.
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TrevorK
Journeyman Posts: 4
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-10-2001 08:23 PM
Thanks for the help guys. Anyone have some specific horsepower/torque numbers? I heard that they went down in 71, but I just want to confirm this, and see all the hp/tq ratings.Trevor
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SuperDave
Gearhead Posts: 123
From: Tacoma, WA USA
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 12-10-2001 11:31 PM
I don't understand your fixation with horsepower. I thought you wanted a car to restore. Like I said, you're unlikely to find an old car that has the original engine and if it does, it will likely be tired. The manufacturer's original specs are irrelevant at this point in time. If you want to build a race car, tell us what you want it to do and we'll prescibe what to look for. How much experience does your Dad have in "restoring" cars?
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TrevorK
Journeyman Posts: 4
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-11-2001 01:01 AM
I guess you're right though, any engine that's in the car right now will either be changed or need to be changed. That's just one of the things I overlooked I guess...As for experience, my dad owned his own body shop for 20 years. I saw first hand, when he fixed a rolled over Talon for me that he could definetely do something most people said couldn't be done. He said on the mechanical side he's not quite as strong, but he should be able to get through it with enough time. I guess after thinking about what you said, the engine really shouldn't matter. Because it's either been replaced or needs to be replaced... Trevor
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SuperDave
Gearhead Posts: 123
From: Tacoma, WA USA
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 12-11-2001 12:02 PM
You are fortunate to have a Dad who is willing to help you AND has the experience to do the body work!As to engines, my advice is to at least buy a V-8 car rather than a six. Should you want more power, it is far easier, and less expensive, to start with a car set up for a V-8 to begin with. Converting a six cylinder car is possible but it requires lots of extra work, especially if you are working with an early ('65-'66) Mustang. Again, my advice is to start with the best car that you can afford and go from there.
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Harley
Gearhead Posts: 113
From:
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 12-11-2001 03:28 PM
Can he be my dad, too?
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-11-2001 04:08 PM
One of the best moves I ever did was to buy a car from California. It's as close to rust-free as a 32 year old car can be. Be careful buying from the internet, though. You don't want to plunk down money for any car that you, or at least a good friend, hasn't had a chance to look at carefully. There are lots of nice cars still available in California, Arizona, New Mexico and western Texas. In looking for an old Mustang, concentrate on the condition of the body. That's the most important thing; everything else can {and probably will} be replaced. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
My Photo Page
Christmas shopping? Why not use the Mustangsandmore.com Bookstore?
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mustangs68
Moderator Posts: 18183
From: Hampton,Virginia,USA MCA#39406 M&M #12
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-11-2001 06:19 PM
Listen to Steve
You can build horsepower cheaper than buying/installing new body panels
sam
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Jeff
Gearhead Posts: 280
From: Moore, OK USA
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 12-11-2001 10:58 PM
Trevor,You have the right idea in seeking to find a southern car (but not near the ocean or gulf). You want to find one from the dry part of the southwest or California. The reason is these old cars were not well treated for corrosion and most of them not restored have some corrosion present. This sounds easy but believe me it isn't. I live in Oklahoma and I searched for more than a year before finding one. Even though I believed at the time my purchase was relatively corrosion free, I still had to replace front floor pans and cowl vents in addition to correcting minor problems with wheel houses and in the lower front part of the doors. The car looked good but was not as good as I thought it was when I bought it. I paid $3,500 for it. I have since spent about $17,000 more on it. The point I'm making is most show condition fastbacks are probably cheaper in the long run than restoring one yourself. Restoring has a couple of advantages: after completing it, you know what you've got, and it does provide a hobby and satisfaction in completing it. Good luck! I'll be looking forward to hearing of your progress!
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289 Rod
Journeyman Posts: 63
From: Laguna Niguel, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 12-14-2001 04:01 AM
I drive a 1965 as you can see from my profile. If you want a good fast car I would recommend the 67/68 over a 65/66 mustang because of the larger engine compartment when left stock. You can modify a 65/66 to fit a 351 cid engine, yet the weight of the engine would make your car less street and more drag racer. Plus only from stock figures the highest hp on a 289 cid was I believe 306 hp from a Shelby 65. If I am wrong please tell me. Oh, and I would not do a Shelby clone, too many people do that, if anything I would recommend Eleanor style which has shelby features but has its own character as well. I guess I am just describing what I want...oops sorry if I am.------------------
'65 Mustang Black/Black Pony Interior
289 4V 4 speed Manual
Weiand Dual Plane,AFR 165cc, Comp Cam Pro Magnum Rocker Arms, 3.55 Rearend
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mustangs68
Moderator Posts: 18183
From: Hampton,Virginia,USA MCA#39406 M&M #12
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-14-2001 08:51 PM
You can get a bunch of HP from a "little" 289..RIGHT ALEX sam
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