Author
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Topic: 289 question
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66fstbck Journeyman Posts: 77 From: Worhtington, Pa. USA Registered: Feb 2000
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posted 12-07-2001 04:45 PM
First of all, I went back and read (and printed out) the entire threads of the 289/300hp posts that Alex had initiated ... Great stuff there !! So, I am now in the process of tearing down my 289. When I got "Rusty" 2 years ago, the engine would not turnover and had sat for 20+ years. After removing the heads (which are frozen solid) the whole thing turns over fine. I removed all the pistons and the crank today. But, cannot get the cam out. I removed the timing chain and gears, removed the cam bearing plate and I believe it should just slide out. It spins fine, but will only pop out about 1/8" .... What gives ? BTW I was amazed how well oiled all the bearings still were after all this time and all the pistons popped out w/o breaking any rings. The cylinders even look pretty good !!! And yes, I have kept all the pieces in their proper order. TIA, Alan------------------ Alan 66 Fastback
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steve'66 Gearhead Posts: 4085 From: Sonoma,CA,USA Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 12-07-2001 06:47 PM
Alan,Did you pull the lifters out yet? SteveW
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66fstbck Journeyman Posts: 77 From: Worhtington, Pa. USA Registered: Feb 2000
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posted 12-07-2001 09:06 PM
No Steve, They won't pop out either ..... They will go up and down approx. 1/2". I just figured they had to come out the bottom after I got the cam out. Alan
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franklin Gearhead Posts: 128 From: VA Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 12-07-2001 10:11 PM
The lifters have to come out. They probably have varnish on them that is making them stick in the lifter bore. You could try turning the engine upside down, and work the lifters out as much as possible and see if the cam will come out.
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 12020 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 12-07-2001 10:28 PM
OOPS! : The old "I forgot to take out the lifters syndrome" aye? Use some vise grips to rotate the lifters then pull them out. It will require some muscle as the may be mushroomed a bit at the bottom. ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00 & '01 Fleet of FoMoCo products Moneymaker Bio US Class Nationals link
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steve'66 Gearhead Posts: 4085 From: Sonoma,CA,USA Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 12-08-2001 12:01 AM
Alan,I guessed good ehhh? Yep they have to come out. Use vise-grips or whatever as Alex suggested. I remember doing a cam change on a 307 Chebbie in the early '70s that the lifters were mushroomed like he!! and vice-grips worked. It'll be easier for you cause you can lift them in the bores enough to get the vice around them. Good luck buddy, SteveW
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66fstbck Journeyman Posts: 77 From: Worhtington, Pa. USA Registered: Feb 2000
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posted 12-08-2001 12:03 PM
Thanks guys, Used the vise grip method and got the lifters out ...... 14 real easy and 2 stubborn ones !! After that cam still didn't want to come out until I tapped it a little using a copper rod and hammer. I guess the bearings were still a little snug. Anyhow, I cleaned up the gasket surfaces and what little grease was on the outside and the dogone block looks pretty good. Need to get some micrometers from a friend of mine and check it out before it goes to the machine shop. I'm gonna have a look at the block that came with my parts car and see which one is best. Thanks again !!! Alan------------------ Alan 66 Fastback
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 23085 From: Saco, Maine USA Registered: May 99
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posted 12-10-2001 08:50 PM
Kind of too late now, but in the future if you want to do this without risking damaging your lifter bores, spray carb cleaner down the sides of the lifters while you work them up and down and it will dissolve the varnish.------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip '97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC My Photo Page Christmas shopping? Why not use the Mustangsandmore.com Bookstore?
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 23085 From: Saco, Maine USA Registered: May 99
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posted 12-10-2001 08:52 PM
Also, Alan, make sure you keep the connecting rods and their caps together.------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip '97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC My Photo Page Christmas shopping? Why not use the Mustangsandmore.com Bookstore?
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66fstbck Journeyman Posts: 77 From: Worhtington, Pa. USA Registered: Feb 2000
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posted 12-12-2001 09:21 PM
Thanks again Steve, I did remember to keep the rods and caps matched up. Also, thanks for straightening out my posting/password problem......don't know what happened, but it's back to working fine now. My local machineshop will hot tank the block, install cam bearings and freeze plugs for $70 so I'll be getting it over to him next week if work dosen't kill me first LOL. Alan------------------ Alan 66 Fastback
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 23085 From: Saco, Maine USA Registered: May 99
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posted 12-13-2001 07:22 PM
What about the cylinder bores? You should have them miked while the block is at the machine shop. The chance that it doesn't need a boring is pretty slim, and you want nice straight bores if you want it to make any power and last.------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip '97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC Christmas shopping? Why not use the M&M Bookstore?
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 12020 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 12-13-2001 07:24 PM
Is it "miked" or "miched" ? ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00 & '01 Fleet of FoMoCo products Moneymaker Bio US Class Nationals link
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Harrys'65 Gearhead Posts: 306 From: Saint Paul, MN Registered: Sep 99
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posted 12-13-2001 10:18 PM
I thought he wanted to hear the power.
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 12020 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 12-14-2001 01:41 AM
Or could it be "micked"? ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00 & '01 Fleet of FoMoCo products Moneymaker Bio US Class Nationals link
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Fastback68 Gearhead Posts: 753 From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines Registered: Jul 99
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posted 12-14-2001 02:22 AM
Is this as in getting the bore measured for accuracy with a micrometer??? How about "miced"
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 23085 From: Saco, Maine USA Registered: May 99
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posted 12-14-2001 07:55 PM
Miked is how I've always read it. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip '97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC Christmas shopping? Why not use the M&M Bookstore?
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66fstbck Journeyman Posts: 77 From: Worhtington, Pa. USA Registered: Feb 2000
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posted 12-14-2001 08:12 PM
After all of this, I have decided to have the cylinders checked in such a way as to asertain they're trueness to factory specifications using calibrated instrumentation in the hands of a skilled technician. LOL------------------ Alan 66 Fastback
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 23085 From: Saco, Maine USA Registered: May 99
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posted 12-14-2001 08:30 PM
The EXACT tool the machinist will use is a dial-bore gauge, if you guys want to get really picky. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip '97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC Christmas shopping? Why not use the M&M Bookstore?
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66fstbck Journeyman Posts: 77 From: Worhtington, Pa. USA Registered: Feb 2000
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posted 12-14-2001 08:39 PM
Yeah Steve, but didn't you like the way I put that w/o using the "M" word ??? But, Just for the record, I thought it was miked also !!!------------------ Alan 66 Fastback
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74merc Gearhead Posts: 730 From: Demopolis AL Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-15-2001 03:55 AM
c'mon, lets bicker over the spelling of a borderline slang term!! miched.
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69maverick Gearhead Posts: 733 From: Thomaston,CT. Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 12-15-2001 07:10 AM
I still can't believe a Mikanic kind of a guy used "asertain" in a sentance and made it work!! ------------------ Jim B. 70 Maverick Grabber clone 302,c4 auto Weld drag lites,Holley 600,performer intake,comp cam,MSD ignition,2.5 " pipes Still needs paint!! [This message has been edited by 69maverick (edited 12-15-2001).]
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 12020 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 12-15-2001 01:14 PM
OK then, it should have been "dialboreguaged"! ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00 & '01 Fleet of FoMoCo products Moneymaker Bio US Class Nationals link
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 23085 From: Saco, Maine USA Registered: May 99
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posted 12-15-2001 08:21 PM
quote: Originally posted by 69maverick: I still can't believe a Mikanic kind of a guy used "asertain" in a sentance and made it work!!
Well, he didn't. It's spelled 'ascertain.'
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74merc Gearhead Posts: 730 From: Demopolis AL Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-17-2001 06:14 PM
"dialboreguaged" rotflmao that'll just roll off your tongue, won't it!!
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