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Author
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Topic: Porportioning valve question
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Gary
Gearhead Posts: 700
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 11-29-2001 07:30 PM
   
The one and only thing on the brake system I have not replaced is the porportioning valve.
Just what does this valve do??? I cleaned it up earlier and re-installed it. Im getting plenlty of fuild out of all four bleeders, in fact I have run a quart of brake fuild through the whole system but still have no brakes..only a tad but very weak. System just does not build any hyd pressure and there's no leaks..im confused..Iv'e done many brake jobs before with no problems. Thought Id ask again and question the valve as to what it does before committing to the dualting task of removing the master again and trying the old new one. With the 528BB sitting close by it's not an easy task even when removing the rocker to sneak the master by.
Another question: In building this car I had everything apart, in relation to the proportioning valve, is it possible to install this valve in the line in the wrong direction? or is it directional? Im getting plently of brake fuild throughout the system.
Just a thought..humm?[This message has been edited by Gary (edited 11-29-2001).] [This message has been edited by Gary (edited 11-29-2001).] [This message has been edited by Gary (edited 11-29-2001).]
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kcode
Gearhead Posts: 2099
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 11-29-2001 10:46 PM
Gary,
I assume that you are still using the stock non-adjustable prop valve inline, If you are, my opinion would be to get rid of it and go with an adjustable type. This way you can dial in the best bias to match your tire and brake combination. About $40, if you go with Summitt brand, Wilwood cost more.Did you change size or style of master cylinder when you built the car, or style of brakes? Mike
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franklin
Gearhead Posts: 128
From: VA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 11-29-2001 11:00 PM
The proportioning valve is used to delay the action of the rear brakes during a panic stop to keep the rear brakes from locking up and causing the car to spin out. They are usually made for specific model cars because of the different weight bias front to rear. That's what would be good about kcode's suggestion about getting an aftermarket adjustable one, since you have modified your car so much anyway.
Also I have noticed alot of cars have the front brakes hooked to the rear section of the mc and the rear brakes hooked to the front section of the mc. Is this the way you have yours hooked up? I am assuming you have front discs, so you definitely need a mc that is designed for front discs/rear drum, or front discs/ rear disc if you have them.
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Gary
Gearhead Posts: 700
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 11-29-2001 11:07 PM
Kcode, I retained the stock type brakes, disc front drums rear. Im planning on converting to disc in the rear here soon. Thanks for the info about adjustable valve, thats sounds like a good idea. The only changes I did were to convert to DOT 5 silicone and use premium pads. The wildwood stuff would be nice, huge disc all the way around is what I wanted to do but funds in the begining went into building the engine and 4-link suspension ect. Figured doing better brakes could wait just alittle later.
Brakes really are on top of my list to do now that the car is 95% finished. Speed is nice but stopping it safely is even better 
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Gary
Gearhead Posts: 700
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 11-29-2001 11:12 PM
Franklin, Yes, front disc line to rear of MC drums rear connected to front of MC. That is correct I beleive...
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