What about the rod between the booster and the master cylinder? Is it original? Is it adjustable?

I believe you still have air in the lines somewhere. An air bubble can be a real pain to get out. You're bleeding the wheel cylinders in sequence, right? Starting from the furthest from the master forward? {RR, LR, RF, LF}

1. Get a metal tire valve and a spare master cylinder cover.

2. Drill a hole in the cover, and weld the valve to the cover.

3. Install cover on full master cylinder, and pressurize to 10 psi or so.

4. Bleed in sequence. Make sure you don't run low on brake fluid, if you do, start over.

1) When I rec'd my remanufactured Booster it did NOT come with the pushrod that goes into the MC. Don't know if it was supposed to, but I used a pushrod I had laying around. Also, it's important that you have the correct clearance between the end of that pushrod and the M/C mating surface. It the pushrod is too long you'll already have pushed in on the M/C before the pedal even moves. Too short and the M/C won;t travel fully in it's bore....or at all if the rod is really short.

2) I don't know, but didn't all '69 Stangs come with front disc as standard? If they didn't, then perhaps you got a 4 wheel drum M/C. As you know, I installed 4 wheel disc in my '67 and learned from research that the bore and stroke of a M/C is critical and changes according to disc or drum, power or manual.

3) Are your front calipers and rear slave cylinders free and able to move?

4) That proportioning valve you mention (in your other post) is critical. It adjusts pressure between the disc and drum system. It allows the front brakes to have more stopping power so you get better braking actoin and control. Yes, it can be installed backwards and it would have a bad affect (not sure what affect though). Do you have a '69 Ford manual? It shows the correct installation and explains how it works. I'll look in my '69 manual if you don't have one, just let me know.

5) Did you change fluid types? I went from Dot 4 to Silicone (Dot 5 I believe). Since my entire brake system was new I was OK. But if you're changing from one to the other I believe you have to thouroughly rinse the old fluid out with alcohol (Jack Daniels would work fine!) , otherwise the ruber can deteriorate....which would allow fluid to leak everywhere at your wheels.

6) Are you running a line lock (also called roll control)? If so the solinoid must be installed in the proper direction. Doubt this would cause your problem though.

Let me know how it goes.

Cheers,
Brian

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Hello All,
My dad and I just did this conversion this past weekend. (single to dual M/C).

We used a 1967 Dual master cylinder and the pushrod that came with the Dual MC. We were so frustrated for about an hour because we couldn't figure out why there was no pressure building up (pedal to the floor).

Just as we were about to pull out the new MC, we compared the new pushrod to the old pushrod. The older one was about 1 inch longer. We bolted that old pushrod in BINGO! Pedal was instantly back to normal.

NOTE: use original pushrod!
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Originally posted by Gary:
Brian, I remember adjusting the shoes out back so the drum would just go on when replacing the brakes. After thinking about whats going on I decided to manual adjust them again using a screw driver with the drums on....well I was able to adjust another 20 clicks before I could barely move the wheel then backed off a few. Just doing this has made a huge difference!

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Cool! That was my first suggestion...