Author
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Topic: Switching Transmission Shift Levers
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Boss Hoss Gearhead Posts: 238 From: Georgia Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 11-24-2001 08:56 AM
I will be installing a newly-rebuilt C4 into my 65 Mustang soon.The problem is, the new C4 has a column shift lever which won't work with the floor-type shifting that the Mustang has. My present C4 has the correct lever for floor shifting. Can anyone give me step-by-step instructions on how to switch out the shift levers on the two transmissions so that the new C4 will work with the floor shifter? I know that I need to remove the valve body and also that I need to tighten the valve body bolts to the proper inch-pound settings when I put it back together, but that's about all I know, since I haven't done this before. I have asked some of you before about some tips in doing this, but just to make sure I don't screw something up, I would like to know the step-by-step process if it is not too much trouble to write. Thanks! ------------------ *andy* ([email protected]) also known as...***Boss Hoss*** *1965 Mustang 289 coupe* *1996 Mustang GT coupe*
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mellowyellow Gearhead Posts: 7459 From: So. Fl. Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 11-24-2001 12:23 PM
That happened to me when I took a trans and engine out a 64 Galaxie to put into a a 64.5 Mustang. I took the cowards way out and took it to a trans shop.
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 27856 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 11-24-2001 01:39 PM
Do you have an inch pound torque wrench? It is not very hard to do. 1) pull the pan. 2) remove the internal nut that holds in the shift shaft 3) remove the filter screen 4) remove all of the valve body bolts and pay attention to where they belong 5) make carful note of how the shift lever fits into the groved slot of the shift shaft in the valve body. 6) lift off the valve body carefully straight up. 7) remove the shift lever and replace it with the floor shift one. 8) tighten it back up. 9) lower the valve body back down and carefully align the lever in the slot of the shift shaft. It should all fit nice and snug. Do not force anything. 10) Reinstall the valve body bolts and torque them to 30 inch lbs. 11) Reinstall the filter and pan. That's it! ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00 & '01 Fleet of FoMoCo products Moneymaker Bio US Class Nationals link
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 27856 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 11-26-2001 06:37 PM
Well????? ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00 & '01 Fleet of FoMoCo products Moneymaker Bio US Class Nationals link
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Boss Hoss Gearhead Posts: 238 From: Georgia Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 11-26-2001 08:32 PM
Whoops! Sorry, Alex...I meant to tell you that I do indeed have an inch-pound torque wrench.Your instructions were great, but I do have two quick questions: After I pull the pan, don't I have to pull the valve body before I am able to remove the internal nut that holds the shifter shaft? And to get to the manual lever on the inside of the case, don't I have to disconnect one end of the manual lever link (the little oval thing that is on top of the manual lever and attaches to that rod that connects to the parking pawl)? ------------------ *andy* ([email protected]) also known as...***Boss Hoss*** *1965 Mustang 289 coupe* *1996 Mustang GT coupe*
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 27856 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 11-27-2001 06:46 PM
Andy, depending on how narrow your wrench is, you may or may not have to pull the valve body first. I never do. You do not have to dissconnect anything else. You are just lifting the valve body enough to get the lever out and the floor shift one in. ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00 & '01 Fleet of FoMoCo products Moneymaker Bio US Class Nationals link
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