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Author
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Topic: 289 Valve Adjustments
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Oldhorse
Journeyman Posts: 7
From: Austin, TX, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 11-12-2001 10:53 AM
   
Can anyone help me with initial valve adjustments on a newly rebuilt 1966 289? All lifters, valves, etc were replaced and I'm installing the rocker arms. There are a couple of schools of thought on how to preset the rockers, but I'd rather get advice from someone who has direct experience.Haynes manual says gap with a .100" gap (huge) for starting and final adjust after engine is installed and running (not desireable). The rebuilder said to tighten the rocker bolts until the push rods can just barely be twisted. I ran the oil pump with an electric drill to build up oil pressure and fill the lifters, but I don't know if this is enough to do a final adjustment. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.... Les
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 42859
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-12-2001 11:24 AM
First of all, do you have hydraulic lifters, or solid?The Haynes spec of .100" is a spec for a solid cam, the 1/4 turn after zero lash is for hydraulic cams. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
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Oldhorse
Journeyman Posts: 7
From: Austin, TX, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 11-12-2001 12:16 PM
Thanks Steve,
Yes, I have hydralic lifters. When you say 1/2 to 1 turn after zero lash, does that mean when the push rod can no longer turn, the rocker arm tight, or zero gap between the valve stem and rocker arm?Also, does this hold true with new lifters, having never been run up? Will I have to readjust starting the engine? Thanks again
Les
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 42859
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-12-2001 12:37 PM
Well, the best, most accurate valve adjustment comes from adjudting them while the engine is running. It's really not all that messy if you get a good set of rocker arm clips and use an old valve cover with the center cut out.That said, I've sent many a engine down the road with just a cold adjustment and they've run fine. Here's how you adjust them: Using your Haynes manual, set the engine on TDC and adjust the valves just as they describe. At TDC, then 180 degrees, then 270 degrees. I like that method because there is less chance of missing a valve. Set each specified valve as follows: Turn the rocker arm nut down slowly while turning the pushrod with your fingers until the pushrod stops turning. That is zero lash. As you turn it further 1/4 turn, you will see the plunger in the lifter being compressed downward. I've found 1/4 turn after zero lash is the best setting for most engines. Then just do each valve as specified in your manual. If it doesn't tell you which valves to adjust, let me know and I'll look it up in one of my manuals. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
My Photo Page
I've been really worried about my anxiety problem...
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Oldhorse
Journeyman Posts: 7
From: Austin, TX, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 11-12-2001 01:20 PM
Thanks again Steve,
I like the 1/4 turn. I'll give it a try. I have the pattern to go around the engine, so I'll do that.I did as you suggested with my 57 Chevy 283 after restoration. I purchased an old valve cover and cut a 2" wide slot accross the whole cover. I tightened each rocker bolt until the valve chattered, then backed off until it just stopped. Is this the same method used for the 289? You also mentioned clips, what are they and how are they used? Thanks again Les
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 42859
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-12-2001 01:34 PM
Yes, that's the way. You back off the nuts until the rockers clack, then tighten to 1/4 turn after they quiet down.The rocker arm clips are steel clips that cover the oil holes on the rocker arms. They stop the oil from squirting, and the oil just runs down the rocker arm. If you combine them with a cut valve cover, you'll have zero mess. You can get the clips at any good auto parts store. Get the ones stamped from flat steel, not the ones made of wire and plastic; those are junk. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
My Photo Page
I've been really worried about my anxiety problem...
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kcode
Gearhead Posts: 3019
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 11-12-2001 10:26 PM
I agree with Steve, but I'm old and I forget easily on the 0, 180, 360, on which intake or exhaust to adjust. I have all of my Harmonic balancers marked at 0, 90, 180, 270 degree, I go through the firing order 90 degrees at a time doing both Intake and exhaust valves so theres no question if I missed a valve. I also take off the distributor cap to watch the rotor incase I forget where I'm at.  Mike
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Oldhorse
Journeyman Posts: 7
From: Austin, TX, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 11-13-2001 10:13 AM
Thanks Mike. I like that method. I'll mark my dampner at 90 degrees intervals and follow the firing order. I always like to confirm fire stroke by watching the exhaust valve closing before the fire mark. Thanks for the feedback. Les
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