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Author Topic:   Numbers Matching Fender
GTRocks
Gearhead

Posts: 3538
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99

posted 11-05-2001 12:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for GTRocks   Click Here to Email GTRocks     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I haven't had my '66 in to see the autobody man yet, but after looking it over, I don't think he'll be able to fix it. Thus, I'll be looking for another. I can't decide if I should just drop the $150-175 for a repo, or hunt for a numbers matching unit. I wouldn't know even where to look for the numbers. Can anyone shed some light on what I would be looking for, and how to decipher the numbers, and where on the fender they are located? What sort of deduction would I be looking at taking if I put a repo fender on? I'm not an avid showgoer, but I kinda want to reserve my right to be able to at some later point in life. I'm already modified (suspension) so should I even worry about it? Thoughts?

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 6609
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 11-05-2001 03:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If I have the opportunity to buy an original fender in top shape, am not going to let a date code stop me from putting it on a car. Have seen a Ford fender later black primer, without ANY date, and it WAS an original. Had original Ford sticker and wrapper, picked up from Ford dealer. Probably for driven concourse, it wouldn't make a difference. For thoroughbred, it would and possibly trailered concourse. Apparently, it's the buyers looking for a bargaining chip to chisel price down that make the biggest issue of it. Opinion. When I get off line am going to call a couple of judges. Maybe Mike{kcode} can shed some light on topic. I have used the later repo with the Goodmark brand it fit perfect. It has the same guage metal as orig. I prefer originals. As for the dates; Let's say it was Oct 21, it wouldf be 10 21 2 The last no. is either the shift no. or the stamping plant. It is found on the lip where the fender attaches to the apron. One of the last MMonthly or M&Fords issues mentions it.

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GTRocks
Gearhead

Posts: 3538
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99

posted 11-05-2001 08:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for GTRocks   Click Here to Email GTRocks     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
So would I have to get a fender that matched to the day to avoid the deduction? For example if this one is 10 21, would the one one the other side also have to be 10 21, or is there a chance it could be something else? How wide of a spread could there be, or did they stamp them after assembly?

You said that you prefered originals over repos despite their perfect fit and guage. Why? Not arguing with you, just trying to learn the ins and outs. Thanks for your help!

Dave

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kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 2983
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 11-05-2001 10:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Dave
If you have visions of going for a concours restoration try to find a fender that has a date code prior to the build date of the car. Usually within one month. The dates on each fender do not have to match, but close.

My feelings are mixed on Repop parts, on Beckys 66 convertible I got a NOS on the driver side and a reproduction on the passenger side. The Repop fit better. Ford continued to stamp fender for 65-66s until the 90's so variances do happen.

One date code should be stamped on the flange that bolts to the inner aprons. The choice is yours.

Mike

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 6609
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 11-05-2001 10:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
In reality, fenders were probably made no more than 2 weeks before assembly, if that much. And one could be stamped out 4 days before the other. In 65-6 they were going full blast and in 65, running three shifts. There could even be a fluke where a fender COULD turn up that was stamped even longer before. Anything was possible. Keep in mind that the rights could be made before the lefts, etc. and then brought in for assembly. Exact same day would probably be the exeption. While the guage is the same on a repop It seems like the original steel is harder on the orig. The one that I used did fit very well. I have gennys on my two keeper cars. My 68 has one Ford replacement and the other is orig being replaced with a perfect one-date unknown and not important.

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GTRocks
Gearhead

Posts: 3538
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99

posted 11-06-2001 12:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for GTRocks   Click Here to Email GTRocks     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What do you think I would pay for a nice original fender? I'm just trying to decide if it would be worth all the hassle.

Since I've already modified the suspension, and it's a more-or-less plain jane coupe, I should probably just go repro. I think seeing this car on the concourse circuit is a pipedream.

I also seem to be drawn to the modified at the show (huh, kcode!)

Thanks for the help guys!!

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 6609
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 11-06-2001 03:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Sounds like a wise move.

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