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Author Topic:   289 Timing question
Fuzion
Journeyman

Posts: 40
From: Torrance, CA
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 11-04-2001 08:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fuzion     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
oki since i'm still new to working on my mustang....i need to know wat's the timing on a stock 289 mustang...uhmm its a 2 barrel if that's any help and uhmm yea...i was about to ask about the distributor gap and dwell but that's taken cared of in the other thread...

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 776
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 11-04-2001 09:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Between 8 & 10 initial works well.

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Fuzion
Journeyman

Posts: 40
From: Torrance, CA
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 11-05-2001 02:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fuzion     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
thanks alot

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 42859
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 11-05-2001 06:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Be sure to disconnect and plug the vacuum hose while you set the timing.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
My Photo Page
My goal is to stop being such a pessimist... but that probably won't happen...

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Fuzion
Journeyman

Posts: 40
From: Torrance, CA
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 11-05-2001 06:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fuzion     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
oki i put my distributor back into the car andi did exactly as my shop manual said but i can't get the car started...someone help me?
i didn't crank the engine or anything wen i took the distributor out of the car so i figured i didn't have to set cylinder 1 back to TDC...wen i finished working on my distributor i popped it back in exactly the same way i took it out (i marked the location of how it should go back in) but now it won't start....it started fine before i took out the distributor, but now it'll crank but won't start...someone please help me out!!! i wanna take my car out for a joy ride tonite but if i can't get it running imma have to take the rice burner(toyota camry) out...

if u need uhmm more info on wat i did just let me kno and i'll tell u wat i did to the best of my knowledge

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 776
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 11-05-2001 06:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'd start by making sure you have spark before anything else. You can crank it with a wire off with a plug and see if there is spark.

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 18590
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 11-05-2001 07:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Did you mark the location of the rotor on the dist,and then the dist location on the block.When you put the dist back in the rotor will turn.So you have to move the rotor back one or two theeth to get it to line up.It takes me a couple of trys to get it right.Or you can just start over and find top dead center on #1.

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65 Coupe with a 351w, RPM intake,carter625,shorty 1-5/8 headers,2.5 exhaust,Flowmasters,Black Magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,Cragers SS,Black Suede finish.
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
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Fuzion
Journeyman

Posts: 40
From: Torrance, CA
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 11-05-2001 11:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fuzion     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
JAAZZY - yea i kno there was a spark....i got one hell of a shock....i need to remember to use something else to hold hte wires next time....

Fastymz - yea i marks both the block and dist but i already cranked the motor so i'm thinking i might have to start all over again...unless i don't have to since i put the dist in before i cranked it? if worse comes to worse its time to find TDC again

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 42859
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 11-06-2001 06:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yes, start over.

Pull the #1 spark plug {front on passenger side}, stick your thumb over the hole and tick it over until you start to get compression, then turn the engine by hand to TDC on the balancer.

Find spark plug wire #1 on the distributor cap, match the rotor to it and drop the distributor in. The rotor will turn as the cam gear engages, so double check the position of the rotor and turn the distributor until the rotor lines up with the #1 terminal.

Fire it up and set the final timing.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
My Photo Page
My goal is to stop being such a pessimist... but that probably won't happen...

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Fuzion
Journeyman

Posts: 40
From: Torrance, CA
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 11-06-2001 10:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fuzion     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
arghh!! the one thing i didn't want to do wasstart over...but if it gets myy car running now i'll do anything:lol so i think imma go work on my car in the morning after i get outta class...

thanks steve for how to do it

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Boss Hoss
Gearhead

Posts: 223
From: Georgia
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 11-07-2001 02:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Boss Hoss   Click Here to Email Boss Hoss     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
In order to set initial timing on my engine, I use "the pencil method". The reason I believe in this method is because the timing marks on harmonic balancers aren't always exactly correct, especially if the balancer is old. I know for a fact my balancer is a BIG liar!

I take out the spark plug on the #1 cylinder and put a long, brand-new pencil into the spark plug hole. Make sure the pencil is long enough to sit on top of the piston and still stick out of the hole.

I then turn the engine over by hand while I watch the pencil. (NOTE: I have to take ALL the spark plugs out in order to have no compression, so I can turn the engine easier...I'm a weakling, OK?) Anyhow, I watch the pencil VERY CAREFULLY and I try to see when the pencil is sticking out the farthest. When it is sticking out the farthest, the #1 piston is at the top of its compression stroke. I immediately stop turning the engine and go to the distributor.

I take the distributor cap off and I notice where the distributor rotor is pointing. Where it is pointing is where the contact of the #1 cylinder should be. Carefully rotate your distributor's body so that the contact in the distributor cap for the #1 cylinder spark plug wire lines up with where the rotor is pointing. (You will have to take the distributor cap on and off to make sure you have the alignment right.)

Once you have the #1 cylinder contact lined up with the rotor, your engine is perfectly timed. Tighten down the distributor hold-down clamp and start the engine.

Drive the car, and get up to about 45-50 mph. If you notice knocking (pinging), then you need to either switch to a higher-octane gas (I run only premium in my car), or more likely you will need to fine-tune the timing.

------------------
*andy* ([email protected])

also known as...***Boss Hoss***

*1965 Mustang 289 coupe*
*1996 Mustang GT coupe*

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Fuzion
Journeyman

Posts: 40
From: Torrance, CA
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 11-08-2001 03:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fuzion     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
well i got my car running finally and watnots...but now i got another problem...i set the timing at 6 degrees as it says in the shop manual...i hope that's right...

if i read everything rite i'm suppose to set the timing with the vacuum hose off then put the vacuum back on wen the timing is set rite?

my new problem is that wen i set the timing and then put the vacuum hose back on....everytime i try to accelerate the car stalls...but if i leave the vacuum hose off then i don't have a problem accelerating....what can be wrong? i kno its not the carb cuz i just had it rebuilt and tuned and the car was running perfectly before i took the distributor out...uhmm anymore insites ads to wat it might be?

oh yea by the way u guys rock! i swear...so far everytime i needed help with my car i get like a flood of answers to help me out i greatly appreciate it!

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 11-08-2001 09:10 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I've been racing a stock 289 for a few years, so maybe I can help.. Some 289 distributors have 2 vacuum tubes on the dist. The tube closest to the dist. is for retarding the timing and the one toward the front of the car is the advance.. You should use this one to hook the vacuum to.. The retard is not necessary.. When the vacuuum advace is working properly, you should notice that the timing will quickly move ahead by opening the throttle a little bit..

I have also found that 6 degrees of base timing is usually not enough.. I always ran mine at 10-12 degrees for better acceleration and fuel economy..

Hope this helps,
dan

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Fuzion
Journeyman

Posts: 40
From: Torrance, CA
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 11-08-2001 02:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fuzion     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
hey dan thanks alot....i figured out wat was wrong....it turnded out that the points (tho new) were burnt out i guess cause the key was left in the on position by my lil sister wen i was working on my car... so i got new ones and it worked...i also set my timing at 8degrees which seems to work prett well for now.....but u said 10-12 is better? if u don't mind me asking like how much better? cuz i was afraid it would be too far advinced and watnots since its mainly my daily driver for now. any info on that would really help thanks again everyone!

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 776
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 11-08-2001 03:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

Like Dan I always ran about 10 initial with my 289s. They seemed to run best there. This is on daily driven vehicles. I am running about 12 now with my 342.

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Fuzion
Journeyman

Posts: 40
From: Torrance, CA
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 11-08-2001 05:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fuzion     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
welps time for me to bump my timing up 2 more degrees then thanks alot for the info!

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 42859
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 11-08-2001 08:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Good job, Fuzion!

They're right, try 10 degrees.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
My Photo Page
My goal is to stop being such a pessimist... but that probably won't happen...

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Fuzion
Journeyman

Posts: 40
From: Torrance, CA
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 11-08-2001 11:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fuzion     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
i changed the timing to 10degrees and its time to take my baby out for a spin... thanks guys!

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 11-09-2001 12:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Fuzion:
hey dan thanks alot....i figured out wat was wrong....it turnded out that the points (tho new) were burnt out i guess cause the key was left in the on position by my lil sister wen i was working on my car... so i got new ones and it worked...i also set my timing at 8degrees which seems to work prett well for now.....but u said 10-12 is better? if u don't mind me asking like how much better? cuz i was afraid it would be too far advinced and watnots since its mainly my daily driver for now. any info on that would really help thanks again everyone!

When you have $100 to spend, I highly recommend getting a Pertronix Ignitor and matching Flamethrower coil. They are well worth the money and you'll never have to worry about points and condenser again.. Better starting and performance for the street/strip..

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Fuzion
Journeyman

Posts: 40
From: Torrance, CA
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 11-09-2001 02:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fuzion     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
u kno that was wat's on the agenda as my next add on along with a new rear end...so far the points are still working good so imma go with the rear end first before i get the Pertronix Ignition and coil. but thanks for the tip tho

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