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Author
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Topic: Budget Paintjob
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68Mustang
Gearhead Posts: 174
From: Auburn, AL
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 10-30-2001 10:18 PM
   
I know that's an oxymoron, but that's what I am after. My 65 needs some new paint. I eventually plan on making this a commuter with a 5.0 Fuelie, etc. Wondering where to get the best how to articles. I'll be stripping down to bare metal and painting in my garage. I've got a sandblaster, is that better than the aircraft stripper? Both are messy, used the stripper on my 68. This is going to be done in stages. If I get it to the point where there is primer on will it stay rust free if it is garage kept? Thanks for any help and hopefully with some time I will have a nice dark highland green body to work with. One other thing, is it better to do the engine compartment at the same time as the body or after?Thanks
Marshall ------------------
1968 302 5-spd Fastback, Modified
1965 Coupe
1981 F-150
email: [email protected]
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 6602
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 10-30-2001 10:48 PM
Marshall,Do not use your sandblaster on the body. Use the paint remover and/or sand it instead, if you want to blast it use a bead or media blaster. The sand will create warped body panels.  Good luck, SteveW
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 12015
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 10-30-2001 11:00 PM
I think its better to do the engine and interior 1st before the body paint.When I painted my 65 I sanded it almost all the way down.The main thing is to get the surface even.Taking out all the high spots.Dark colors are the hardest to get to come out right.I did mine to the primer stage and thats were it will stay for some time.If you sand it down to metal you have to cover it with some primer or it will rust even inside.My brother inlaw has painted many cars and gave me alot of tips.I picked up a book at barnes and noble called how to paint your car.it has alot of good ideas in it.Sand or strip it dont sand blast it.I know I'll go on for ever if you let me,you guys need to put a limit on how many words per post.  Ron------------------
65 Coupe with a 351w, RPM intake,carter625,shorty hedders,2.5 exhaust,Flowmasters,Black Magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,Cragers SS,Black Suede finish.
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Fastymz.html
MEM#1240
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Harrys'65
Gearhead Posts: 341
From: Saint Paul, MN
Registered: Sep 99
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posted 10-30-2001 11:24 PM
Marshall,
Use the aircraft stripper and DP sander to strip the car. Your other option is to get it mediablasted, which runs about $400 around here. I stripped mine about a year ago and it took about 40 hours total.
The paint guys on the board will give you a guideline on what primer to use to seal it, but you will need to do it fairly fast. You don't want any surface rust to form. I think I used a DP Epoxy primer on mine.
Also, do the engine compartment first. Then the body, then touch up the engine. Best of luck,
Harry ------------------
Harry Straub
'65 Mustang Coupe
http://www.harrystraub.com/resto.html
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davids68
Gearhead Posts: 251
From: Louisville, KY, United States M&M # 351
Registered: Feb 2000
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posted 10-31-2001 05:45 AM
Try this link. www.autobodystore.com Some great people and experts there who will be more than happy to answer any questions. Click on their forums button and be sure to check out their archives to search for answers to questions.HTH
David
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-31-2001 09:20 AM
One thing about painting is that it is a LOT harder to do than most people realize, especially if you want a good job.If you want to make it a 20 footer, you might want to consider stripping off the trim yourself and having a place like Maaco blast it for you. My brother did this with his Torino, and I'm impressed by what he ended up with for $700. Plus he did this in a relatively short period of time, in comparison to me, who is almost making a career out of this. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC Recycle --- Restore a Classic Ford!
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68Mustang
Gearhead Posts: 174
From: Auburn, AL
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 10-31-2001 10:40 AM
Thanks for all the tips so far. Steve that's my problem. I know I want to have a driver, but will I be happy with the paintjob not being as good as my 68's? I know of a couple of Jeeps that have been painted by Peach (like Maaco) and they look good. All you have to do is give them more specifics right? Keep em coming.------------------
1968 302 5-spd Fastback, Modified
1965 Coupe
1981 F-150
email: [email protected]
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 10-31-2001 11:48 AM
Does the car need stripping? Would sanding, starting with heavier grits and working down to light, etc. get the surface down to a respectable level. Coming from the old school of wet sanding, I remember starting on a 66 cv that had a so-so repaint. I sanded it off starting with 18o wet,220, 240, 280, 320, 400. I use a small amount of detergent in the water to reduce clogging. It took me two days and a lot of sanding slop to deal with but it saved me from stripping and building back up. I block sanded the 320-400 grit part. For a six footer, it came out fine. I had body work, which I did and then sent it out for a driver grade paint job. I did these cars for resale and they had to look good and hold up. I never painted any metallics, did white, resale red, yellow, etc. If you have a place that does price paint jobs good, see if you can provide the paint, thinner, hardener. I like PPG, DuPont. One of the problems with Maaco, living in an area with HOT sun!! is not holding up. Material is the reason. Solid colors will hold up better. Opinion. Maaco says they use Sherwin-Williams but it's THEIR grade. I've seen some smooth Maaco jobs but our shop is not too good. Some of local cheapo shops use paint called Western which is terrible. Nason is DuPonts price paint--so-so. If they have to prime, block, etc you will have more labor. My 65 is painted with Sikkens b/clear.{$2500} I gave it to them as a roller in primer after stripping, with nothing on it, including engine. They re primed and sanded to THEIR satisfaction.I like to clean up the engine bay before, but like to paint it AFTER car is painted. It looks crisp that way. Of course, you should take off all your chrome seats, carpet, etc. I like to cover dash, etc. with HD Reynolds wrap alum foil. It lets in NO overspray and can be molded to fit without blowing loose. As I had put in floors and rails on this car, the bottom was painted. I "foiled" everything under car to stop overspray. I held the foil together with duct tape. The BEST shops will NOT cover up the bottom and I do not want overspray. Getting the car back, those dirty dogs loaded it on the flatbed preventing me from filling their trash with all my coverings LOL!! If you can pay extra to have them take off the hood and decklid to paint the backs OFF the car you will have a better looking job. I paid extra to have them paint headlight buckets, 1/4 panel extensions valances, off the car. Close gaps, like between fender and headlight frame, can "bridge" with paint and possibly peel. I prep the trunk to have it painted body color. Later cars use the spatter stuff. On a driver, you can get away with using that stuff and it will look OK. I hope I haven't added too much confusion. I used to paint my own, but materials have become too toxic. There are some guys on this site that paint their own, like Gary-check out his car! It's beautiful!. He's got the equip. If anyone messes with epoxy primers, make sure you have a GOOD respirator and keep your arms, etc. covered! Hope to hear more on this subject. It's my favorite.
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68Mustang
Gearhead Posts: 174
From: Auburn, AL
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 10-31-2001 06:03 PM
Basically, all I am trying to figure out the best way to prep the car my self for the best possible paint job for the buck. Only problem that I have to figure out in the next month is if I am going to keep it the same color (dark maroon) or go to dark highland green (really love that color). Of course changing colors involves total disassembly: doors, trunklid, hood, headlight buckets, fender extensions, and fenders coming off. If they let me I have no problem taking the parts down there to get cut in, put them back on and have the entire car painted. That's the way the shop painted my 68, atleast without the effort by me. This is the scenario where the best results are possible and still keeps the cost relatively low with me supplying the paint, etc. Would love to hear your feedback mellowyellow on what I have said. Should I go to bare metal at all? If I change colors? I have plenty of elbow grease and with christmas break coming up, I'll have the time. ------------------
1968 302 5-spd Fastback, Modified
1965 Coupe
1981 F-150
email: [email protected]
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 10-31-2001 06:49 PM
If a shop will do that, working with you, re taking parts in to cut them in, it would be a good way to go. You mentioned stripping. It depends on HOW MUCH paint is on the car and if there are no bubbles coming through, etc. You don't want to miss any rust. Stripping a car is a major job, and building a new surface also. I dont know how much paint is on the car but sanding it down, if time is not a problem, is well worth considering. I like wet sanding by hand starting with coarse grits and working up. It's worth giving it a try. If you find any surprises underneath, you can always strip it. I had a 70 sportsroof that had three repaints over the original with a sealer coat in between each job. The paint was so thick, I sold it, taking a small profit, but money ahead. The next guy stripped it and it was a nightmare. It's a nice car today but what a mess. By all means, provide the paint. That's just another source of profit for a shop. Many don't want you to do this. Does the car need much body work?? It'a lot of work, but worth it!
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68Mustang
Gearhead Posts: 174
From: Auburn, AL
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 10-31-2001 07:21 PM
How do you know that you have gone deep enough with sanding to keep from having to strip the paint completely? There are small dents on the body, one fender extension is cracked, and one headlight bucket probably needs to be replaced. The car was in Lousiania for its life until I bought it, don't know if that's a good thing or not. The floor inside has some surface rust, but nothing that is worth any worry. Are there any good mail order catalogs for paint supplies?------------------
1968 302 5-spd Fastback, Modified
1965 Coupe
1981 F-150
email: [email protected]
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Harrys'65
Gearhead Posts: 341
From: Saint Paul, MN
Registered: Sep 99
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posted 10-31-2001 10:08 PM
Go to the yellow pages and look for automotive parts distributors for your paint suppliers. You will find paint suppliers...call around.
I used Dupont ChromaColor base(medium/high grade paint) and the corresponding clear, it cost me $375 for everything.
BTW, my car had 7 coats of paint on some panels when I stripped it. The shops around here say 3 is the limit before stripping is necessary.
Best of luck,
------------------
Harry Straub
'65 Mustang Coupe
http://www.harrystraub.com/resto.html
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-01-2001 07:19 PM
quote:
Originally posted by 68Mustang:
How do you know that you have gone deep enough with sanding to keep from having to strip the paint completely?
The key to that is the quality of the paint. If it's factory paint and it's not hazed {cracked} and there isn't rust showing through, you can sand it down and cover it with a sealing primer and still have a good job. But if there's any damage to the paint at all, it's time to go down to bare metal. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
My Photo Page
Help stamp out and eradicate superfluous redundancy!
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68Mustang
Gearhead Posts: 174
From: Auburn, AL
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 11-01-2001 10:09 PM
Looks like there is a bare metal surface in my future. So since I have to go to bare metal, what about the door jams and places of the sort?------------------
1968 302 5-spd Fastback, Modified
1965 Coupe
1981 F-150
email: [email protected]
IP: Logged |
mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 11-01-2001 10:31 PM
After hearing the above, yes; it does sound like strip city!.Oh well, it could be worse
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-02-2001 05:14 PM
quote:
Originally posted by 68Mustang:
So since I have to go to bare metal, what about the door jams and places of the sort?
If the paint in those areas is in good shape, you can get by with scuffing them, seal priming them, then painting. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
My Photo Page
My goal is to stop being such a pessimist... but that probably won't happen...
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