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  Bad lifter? or Loose rocker?

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Author Topic:   Bad lifter? or Loose rocker?
66 Racer
Journeyman

Posts: 37
From: West Covina, California
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 10-28-2001 09:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66 Racer   Click Here to Email 66 Racer     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey guys,

I have a little problem, i have this somewhat loud clicking, it just started recently. There has been no engine rebuild either, well except for the heads about 2-3 years ago. I thought it might be a loose rocker, but wasnt sure what to torque them to? If its not this, is it possible to be a bad lifter? I would probably end up doing the whole valve system if it were the lifters.

thanks for any help

---Anthony

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Under Construction 66 Coupe

289 V8 - 600cfm Holley - Tri-Y Headers - Flowmaster 2.5 dual exaust - Centerforce Dual Friction

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franklin
Gearhead

Posts: 128
From: VA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 10-29-2001 12:23 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for franklin     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If this is an engine that sits around most of the time, I would suspect a lifter that is gummed up some. If the engine is not missing, I wouldn't panic over it. An oil change and a can of Rislone will probably make it go away, especially if you run the car down the road and get the juices flowing.

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289 Rod
Journeyman

Posts: 60
From: Laguna Niguel, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 10-30-2001 12:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 289 Rod   Click Here to Email 289 Rod     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You need to torque your rocker arm studs by the firing order, becuase you want to torque the rocker arms of your exhuast and intake valves when both the exhaust and intake valves are closed. When the distributor rotor is over the point of the cylinder that is suppose to fire, both the exhaust and intake valves should be shut (If your timing is correct).
Then...
To torque your lifter arms use one hands fingers to spin the push rod clockwise and counter-clockwise while you torque the lifter down. When the push rod stops turning in your fingers torque the stud a quarter turn. After you do both rocker arms turn the crank until the distributor reaches the next point. IF you crank the engine with your keyed ignition switch don't have the distributor connected to be able to spark. If you do then your engine could start which is not the desired effect.

This should get rid of any tic' noise from a rocker arm.

By the way if you want some rocker arms I have a set with roller tips. 1.6 ratio 3/8 stud.

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'65 Mustang Black/Black Pony Interior
289 4V 4 speed Manual
Weiand Dual Plane,AFR 165cc, Comp Cam Pro Magnum Rocker Arms, 3.55 Rearend

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66 Racer
Journeyman

Posts: 37
From: West Covina, California
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 10-31-2001 06:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66 Racer   Click Here to Email 66 Racer     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
289Rod---

How much for the rockers, by the way, who makes em.

thanks

---Anthony

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Under Construction 66 Coupe

289 V8 - 600cfm Holley - Tri-Y Headers - Flowmaster 2.5 dual exaust - Centerforce Dual Friction

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289 Rod
Journeyman

Posts: 60
From: Laguna Niguel, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 11-01-2001 12:00 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 289 Rod   Click Here to Email 289 Rod     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Below is my classified ad. I have a set of Comp Cam Magnum Rocker Arms that feature a roller tip. I am in the process of selling them to one individual for $85. I have plenty of other parts as well. Email me for more info.

https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum10/HTML/001008.html

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'65 Mustang Black/Black Pony Interior
289 4V 4 speed Manual
Weiand Dual Plane,AFR 165cc, Comp Cam Pro Magnum Rocker Arms, 3.55 Rearend

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