Of course, you need the choke stove before you can get your choke working right.
If you set the choke to stay open, your engine won't start when it's cold. That's why they have chokes in the first place.
The choke setting doesn't vary from season to season, once you get it right it will be right all year. The adjustment on the choke thermostat is there just to compensate for when the choke spring ages and loses it's strength.
What it should do is the choke plate should snap shut firmly when the engine is cold and you depress the throttle to the floor. That also sets your fast idle cam so the engine idles a little quicker while it warms up. As the engine runs, the choke thermostat should open the choke fairly quick, with 3-4 minutes or so, then the choke plate should be straight up.
To set up the choke, start with the marks straight up, and if the choke plate snaps shut firmly, you're there. If it's weak, you can move to 1 rich, 2 rich, 3 rich, etc, but remember the richer you set it, the longer the choke will work, wasting gas.
After you get the choke plate where you want it, check the operation of the fast idle. I never used to set them at factory spec, because I always liked my fast set at 1000 or so, just fast enought to keep it running smooth but not overrev it while it's cold. That is set with a screw on the fast idle cam behind the choke thermostat. You can set this with the engine warm by just moving the fast idle cam into position with your finger.
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
Be American, Drive American!
[This message has been edited by SteveLaRiviere (edited 10-20-2001).]