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  Heater Coil/Core...HELP!!!

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Author Topic:   Heater Coil/Core...HELP!!!
bibbs68
Gearhead

Posts: 1588
From: Jackson, TN
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 10-15-2001 01:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bibbs68   Click Here to Email bibbs68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
While cruising down the road with my newly installed Grant woodgraing steering wheel, antifreeze started shooting out from under the dash! I verified that it wasn't the hoses so I am asuming that it is the coil/core. How easy is this to replace? If fairly simple, can i get some directional help? I don't want to ruin my original fiberglass heater box as I found out that it will be $150-160 to replace. Ouch! So, if anyone can help me out I would appreciate it. The weather here is just right for driving a non AC car, so needless to say I wanna get it fixed quick!
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 776
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-15-2001 02:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Unfortunately it has been a while since I did this rebuild but it's not that difficult especially if you are just looking to drop in the new core. I did a rebuild of the whole unit. You could probably do it in about 90 minutes.

Make sure you drain some of the coolant from the motor first. There are little clips all around the box holding it together. You can gently pry with a screwdriver and they will release. If I remember correctly that is all that holds it together. You will also need to remove the hoses on the engine so once you are in you can pull the core out. I don't remember the specifics but it's self explanatory once you get it open.

Mine ended up leaking again so I just gave up and plugged the fittings. I think we talked here before about a pressure reducing fitting to keep it from leaking again. I don't know where to buy it though.

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7DMACH1
Gearhead

Posts: 2344
From: PHILA. PA.
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 10-15-2001 02:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 7DMACH1   Click Here to Email 7DMACH1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
We did talk about this before. You can buy reducers from your Ford Dealer for about $10.00 ea or you can put a 3/8" hex nut into a 5/8" heater hose, or a 7/16" nut into a 3/4" heater hose. Push it in a few inches and then put hose onto core. This is a cheap reducer. The 428cj had a Tech. Service Bulletin to put reducers in them in 68-69 to stop the heater cores from blowing. RAY

------------------
RAY . FLY THE FLAG, SHOW THE WORLD WE ARE PROUD AMERICANS!70 MACH 1 351C NOW 408 STROKER 4SPD.
86 MERCURY CAPRI 5.0 RUNS 12.86 @107 1.65 60 ft.
2001 LINCOLN LS V8 1997 MUSTANG
SHOW THE WORLD, LIGHT A CANDLE.
http://www.geocities.com/slariviere/7DMach1.html

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bibbs68
Gearhead

Posts: 1588
From: Jackson, TN
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 10-15-2001 04:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bibbs68   Click Here to Email bibbs68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What do you guys make of this? Sounds logical to me. Should I go ahead and do the "reducer" trick?

http://www.thecarsource.com/shelby/restore/replacing_a_heater_core.html

Thanks,
Jeremy

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 776
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-15-2001 05:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
My new core only lasted a couple of months without leaking without a reducer. One of these days I might actually fix it again. The cars only driven on weekends now so it's not as important as when I did it last. My other problem is that I don't have another water outlet. I only have two on my manifold and one is used by the temp gauge and the other by the fuel injection. I bet there is a adapter for that somewhere.

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Mike65
Gearhead

Posts: 2049
From: Bloomfield, NY, USA. Western Finger Lakes, 65 Fastback, 69 Coupe MCA #-04549
Registered: Dec 2000

posted 10-15-2001 09:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mike65   Click Here to Email Mike65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
As JAZZY stated if you pop the heater box half clips off you cvan just take the back half of the box off & replace the heater core without removing the whole box. I have done this repair before myself, its not that hard to do. About 1 to 2 hours of work.

------------------
Mike & Robin
65 Mustang Fastback
69 Mustang Coupe
87 LTD CV
96 Ranger Extd Cab PU
99 Explorer Sport
M&M #- 890
MCA #- 04549

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Boss Hoss
Gearhead

Posts: 223
From: Georgia
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 10-15-2001 10:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Boss Hoss   Click Here to Email Boss Hoss     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have also removed my heater core from my box when I was restoring the box. It was really not very difficult to do. Like someone has said before, just pop the clips off and there you go. Strangely enough, my original FoMoCo heater core was in perfect condition! (knocking vigorously on wood...)

------------------
*andy* ([email protected])

also known as...***Boss Hoss***

*1965 Mustang 289 coupe*
*1996 Mustang GT coupe*

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unklshu
Gearhead

Posts: 682
From: San Bernardino, Ca
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 10-15-2001 11:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for unklshu   Click Here to Email unklshu     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I think I pulled my heater core out and replaced it with one from the junk yard and it has worked fine for many years, it's not a hard job just a pain to get to some of the clamps holding the hoses.

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 6677
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 10-17-2001 11:10 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
A 67 on up heater core in a FactAC car is a nasty fix. I know that in the 7 and 8 the heater is separate of the AC internally. So, if you live in a warm climate like I, you can eliminate the core problem with a simple by pass and still have AC. Capping the water pump and the inlets at the firewall. To keep it looking original the hoses can be plugged. MMonathly did a core job in a 69 Mach I years back and the dash had to be taken out. WOnderful!! Putting the AC box back together after checking evaporator, checking the vac motors, new foam, etc. I installed a new heater core. Pressure tested it in water-it leaked!! I put in another one and it was OK I'm putting EFI in the car and am tempted to just not have a heater in the car by capping it off.

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JimW68
Journeyman

Posts: 4
From: Fort Worth Tx,
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 10-17-2001 02:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JimW68   Click Here to Email JimW68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The August 01 issue of Mustang Monthly has a good write-up on rebuilding a 65-68 Heater case. I just finished rebuilding a 68 with factory air, just a little different. If you have the time, you might want to go ahead and put a seal kit in. They only cost about $10.00.

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sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 2205
From: in the RV, moving soon from SC to VA
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 10-17-2001 11:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Question for you guys who changed the core with the case still in the car...

The clamps for the hoses on the heater core are on the outside of the fiberglass case. So, if you pop off the clips and pull one side of the case off, and go to pull the heater core out, how do you get to the clamps on the heater core? Are the holes in the fiberglass case big enough for the clamps to pull through?

I've always done it the hard way pulling the whole massive thing out of the car. I am very intrigued about a new easier way of doing this!

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 6677
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 10-18-2001 12:11 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yes, it is a litle different and it would be a pain in the *** job to do (in the car!). I too would like to see a core and seal change in the car as at that point it would be as easy to fix it on the bench. The pain is in pulling the heater box, after removing the blower motor, dash air grille, etc, etc. I have to agree with Sig about the hose location, etc. Again, being a warm weather car, will forego the whole caper next time it happens! LOL! Guess the console wont have to be removed, along with seats

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bibbs68
Gearhead

Posts: 1588
From: Jackson, TN
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 10-18-2001 11:59 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bibbs68   Click Here to Email bibbs68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sigtauenus:
[B]Question for you guys who changed the core with the case still in the car...
B]


Sigtaunus,
I just finished up my project last night. It went without any major problems. The holes in the back half of the heater box on my '68 were not big enough to pull the clamps or hose through. I did however only remove the front half of the box. I posted a link up above that has instructions on how to do this. The only thing that was incorrect in his instructions is just what you asked about.

After removing the front half of the cover, I loosened the two clamps. I couldn't pull the hoses off because they had been on there a good while. So, I CAREFULLY used a utility knif to score the hose on the length of the fitting the hose goes onto. Then "peeled" the hoses off. It worked great.

Then to put the hoses onto the new core, since there is limited space, I used a small drop of WD-40 to help slide the hose onto the new core. Project Heater Core complete!

* Just a note: The hardest part was getting the large foam ring back onto the front half of the case.

Jeremy

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