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Author Topic:   Car Almost Destroyed!
JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 772
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-12-2001 05:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

I was on my way down to the muffler shop to get my new mandrel bent pipes put in. I was day dreaming about the test runs I'd be doing as soon as it was done. I'm crusing on along and I feel a little surge but didn't think anything of it figuring the car was a bit cold. I go about another 1/4 mile and I see a little smoke. I pull right over but it's too late a fire has started under the hood. THANK GOD I carry a fire extinguisher. It took me about 15 seconds to get it unmounted from the roll cage and another 15 seconds to get the hood open and start spraying. In that short bit of time quite a bit of damage had already been done.

Some of the wiring for the fuel injection is toast. The distributor cap has melted. The K&N filter looks like the leaning tower of Pizza. Worst of all, on one part of my hood about a 4" x 10" section of paint has been discolored. My paint is expensive so this is probably the worst part. I can wire up all new connectors for the fuel injection myself but I figure about 6 hours of work. The dist. is the Comp 9000 so I'm sure the parts will run $75 and you all know the K&N filters aren't free! I'll need to test it first but I also might need a new TPS for the injection. My engine compartment was very clean and I'm not sure I'll be able to get the burns rubbed off of everything, especially without removimg the intake manifold.

Well what happened to cause all this?! A fuel line ruptured. I guess I'm still lucky though. If I hadn't had a fire extinguisher the car might have burned to the ground. If you don't have one and your ride is modded you might want to consider it.

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I65Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 6217
From: Folsom, CA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 10-12-2001 05:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for I65Stang   Click Here to Email I65Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Wow! I'm glad it wasnt worse! People always asked me why I carry a fire extinguisher in the '65 (they always ask "do you think its going to catch fire?"), thats why. Good luck on the redo.

------------------
Tim

M&M Member #35
1965 Mustang coupe, 200 I6, Holley 2300, Clifford header, true duals w/ 26" Smithys
1988 Mustang GT AOD vert, 15.810 @ 88.871 mph 100% stock w/ no traction
1976 Silverline Comoro 18' trihull ski boat, 188 hp 302 I/O, another toy
http://all.at/mustang
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/I65Stang.html

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 42139
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 10-12-2001 05:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Wow! Sorry that happened, but I'm glad it wasn't worse!

Did you get burned?

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

Be American, Drive American!

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Ken
Gearhead

Posts: 4766
From: Prospect, Ct. M&M Member No. 31 MCA Member 49299
Registered: Jun 99

posted 10-12-2001 05:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ken   Click Here to Email Ken     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Gee Jas, that sucks !!! Thankfully your alright...hope you get everything taken care of without spending a bunch.

------------------
Conciousness - that annoying time between naps.

Ken
1965 Springtime Yellow Coupe
302GT40-4spd
Edlebrock RPM Air Gap
670cfm Holley Street Avenger
and much, much MORE !!!
www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Kens.html

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 2047
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 10-12-2001 06:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Bummer, Jas!
By the way -- If you were using a 'dry chemical' (white powder) fire extinguisher, make sure you clean ALL of the residue off of your ride. Although it puts out fires (which is a GOOD THING) the powder is a very coorosive material (a BAD THING) and will quickly EAT electrical connections, aluminum, etc. if left in the cracks and crevices of your engine bay. I'd try to vacuum up as much as you can, rather than trying to rinse it off with water or blow it out with air pressure; as those methods will only carry the residue extinguishant material to where you can't see it or get to it.

Although these dry chemical units are cheap to buy & they do save your car from burning down to the ground; they can result in expensive damages if left in & on your ride.

Good Luck! Ryan

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 42139
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 10-12-2001 06:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
That's good to know, Ryan. Thanks.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

Be American, Drive American!

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 772
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-12-2001 06:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Guys thanks very much for your support. No I didn't get burned. I was out of the car very quickly just because I wanted to see what happened.

Ryan,

Thanks very much for that advice. I didn't know that. I vaccumed a lot of it out already but I don't think I can get all of it without washing. I'll vaccumm a few times before I wash it. I'll skip the blowing though based on your advice. Thanks again.

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 18143
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-12-2001 06:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
JAAZZY I'm sorry to hear that.That really stinks,a least you were not hurt.And yes I'm going out and getting an extinguisher.Man that sounds like alot of work.Hope it dose not set you back to much.
Ron

------------------
65 Coupe with a stock 1969 351w, Edelbrock RPM intake,carter625cfm,shorty Hedmen hedders,Black Magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Boss 429 hood scoop,Cragers SS,Black primer or Black Satin finish.

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Dave Witthoeft
Gearhead

Posts: 2219
From: IL.
Registered: Dec 2000

posted 10-12-2001 09:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave Witthoeft   Click Here to Email Dave Witthoeft     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I put out an engine fire once, (small one.) with a gallon of milk!

Glad you weren't hurt.

------------------
MCA# 48755
71 Mach 1
69 Fastback
92 F-150
M&M#884

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 6609
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 10-12-2001 10:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Man! That DOES stink! Reading it, I thought about the fire extinguisher in my trunk-wondering why it's there and not where I can grab it. Feel bad about your paint getting ******!

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mustangs68
Moderator

Posts: 21889
From: Buckroe Beach Va MCA#39406 M&M #12 Member Mustang Club of Tidewater
Registered: May 99

posted 10-12-2001 10:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mustangs68   Click Here to Email mustangs68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Gald to hear your ok...did everyone listen..get a fire extinguisher.
sam

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kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 2983
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 10-13-2001 12:01 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I got a fire bottle from a local Fire Protection company, supposed to have some purple stuff in it that is non-corrosive. Hope they are right, haven't had to use it yet.

Jaazzy, now for the big question, why did the fuel line rupture? What kind of fuel pressure were you running for the FI set-up. In my case when something breaks, it usually because I took a short cut, I hope this wasn't your situation.

Mike

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RonnieT
Gearhead

Posts: 821
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99

posted 10-13-2001 12:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for RonnieT   Click Here to Email RonnieT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Check into the type of extinguisher you buy. Make sure it is a ABC fire extinguisher. Some of them are only good for 1 type of fire and will not do you much good for a gas fire. The dry chemical is about the best small extinguisher you can get for any vehicle fire. A Halon extinguisher is very good, but they are expensive and I hink they may be hard to find. Wash down several times after vacuuming up most of the powder, you have to get rid of ot some way.

------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 772
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-13-2001 12:27 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It broke on a rubber line between the steel line and fuel pressure gauge. I think it may have gotten damaged internally while the motor was being put in because it broke from inside out. It figures that it wouldn't happen while I've got it running and am staring at the motor like I did at least a 6 times this week. The fuel pressure was only at about 17 psi. The Holley systems run at between 15-22psi. I used it at 15 with the 289 but it wasn't enough fuel for the 347.

Ryan(or anyone that knows),

Is the powder corrosive when dry or is it just when it mixes with moisture?

quote:
Originally posted by kcode:
I got a fire bottle from a local Fire Protection company, supposed to have some purple stuff in it that is non-corrosive. Hope they are right, haven't had to use it yet.

Jaazzy, now for the big question, why did the fuel line rupture? What kind of fuel pressure were you running for the FI set-up. In my case when something breaks, it usually because I took a short cut, I hope this wasn't your situation.

Mike


[This message has been edited by JAAZZY (edited 10-13-2001).]

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1720
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 10-13-2001 12:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Really sorry to hear this Jazz.. I was watching the classic movie 'Christine' when I read this post.. Too bad cars can't really fix themselves.. I think you have given us all a good wake up call!!

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Dan warren
Gearhead

Posts: 83
From: bothell Washington
Registered: Aug 99

posted 10-13-2001 01:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dan warren   Click Here to Email Dan warren     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I had heard that the additive in gasoline that been removed recently because of problems of getting in the water supply from leaky tanks. Will eat your gas line up in a few years or less.Was told that there is a new type of gas line to help with the problem. I have not seen it yet though.With the old line I think I would change it even if it didnt look bad or not every other year or less. Cheep insuranse.Ps Co2 extinguisers are expensive but they dont leave the white residue in your car. Dan

------------------
68 Shelby Gt 500 Conv.68 GT Fb 302 .84 Gt 350 5.0 Conv.

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jkilroy
Gearhead

Posts: 1808
From: Vicksburg, MS
Registered: Dec 99

posted 10-13-2001 01:22 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for jkilroy   Click Here to Email jkilroy     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I can personally suggest you check into the Aeroquip push-lok type of hose. Its not the stainless stuff, and a lot cheaper. The hose is very VERY tough with at least 4 layers, including a woven fiberglass braid, and a tough outer shell. You could use it just like rubber fuel line with hose clamps if you want.

If you want to use the fittings they are the kind you just push in and forget, they don't even need hose clamps up to 200 psi. And let me tell ya, anyone that thinks those type of fittings might leak have never tried pressing a -10 fitting in by hand. When I mean to tell you it took *all* I got to press in those fittings I mean ALL. If you want to remove one from the hose, cutting the hose off is the ONLY way. I plumbed up a remote oil filter and oil cooler and haven't had a single drop leak, and the motor runs about 80psi cold.

I know its more than regular fuel line but it is a ton cheaper than stainless, much easier to install, and a whole lot of piece of mind.

------------------
Jay Kilroy
68' Fastback GT 390
"No such thing as a cam thats too big"

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 772
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-13-2001 10:44 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I've never used anything but rubber hose. I need very little since I'm re-doing the whole thing in solid stainless fuel line.

Can regular braided stainless line be used just like rubber hose with clamps? I'll probably need about 1 ft. on the supply and 1 ft on the return line.

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jkilroy
Gearhead

Posts: 1808
From: Vicksburg, MS
Registered: Dec 99

posted 10-13-2001 10:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for jkilroy   Click Here to Email jkilroy     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Stainless hose is not 'supposed' to be used with clamps, but that doesn't mean it will not work, and I can't say that I have ever tried it. Let me know what you find out.

------------------
Jay Kilroy
68' Fastback GT 390
"No such thing as a cam thats too big"

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kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 2983
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 10-13-2001 11:26 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Jaazzy
Do youself a favor, stay away from the rubber hose with FI. It will cost you more, but use the -AN fittings. The push-lok that Jay mentioned is good, so is the braided stainless. For safetys sake go with the good stuff.

Mike

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 772
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-13-2001 01:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well I will need some type of adapter to from the stock line to the stainless. Is the stock line 3/8 or is it 5/16. Thanks

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Dr. Who
Gearhead

Posts: 164
From: Redwood City, Ca.
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 10-13-2001 02:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dr. Who   Click Here to Email Dr. Who     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
A braided line can be clamped with regular hose clamps if you cut the covering back so the clamp is on the hose and not the braid, sometimes you can clamp the whole mess but many times the frayed end of the cover will get into the clamp screw and seem tight but can leak or slip off.

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 18143
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-13-2001 04:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The stock line on my 65 5/16.

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65 Coupe with a stock 1969 351w, Edelbrock RPM intake,carter625cfm,shorty Hedmen hedders,Black Magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Boss 429 hood scoop,Cragers SS,Black primer or Black Satin finish.

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Butch Jennings
Gearhead

Posts: 622
From: No. California
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 10-13-2001 07:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Butch Jennings   Click Here to Email Butch Jennings     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by JAAZZY:
Well I will need some type of adapter to from the stock line to the stainless. Is the stock line 3/8 or is it 5/16. Thanks

Aeroquip makes a trick compression fitting to adapt a hard line to braided hose.

------------------
Butch
460 powered 1967 Comet Cyclone
10.271 @ 130.069
Butcher's Home Page
"Friends don't let friends drive Chevys"

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Dr. Who
Gearhead

Posts: 164
From: Redwood City, Ca.
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 10-13-2001 10:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dr. Who   Click Here to Email Dr. Who     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Butcher! Funny you should mention that. I just ordered a bunch of stuff to do the Mustang and one of those trick suckers was in the box. I don't think I ordered it (I'm old so I mighta) but your right it's just the ticket for hooking tube to line.

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kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 2983
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 10-13-2001 10:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Jaazzy,
With the 347 and FI setup you might want to consider going to at least a 3/8 line. It sounds like you are still using the stock 5/16. What you could do is run a new 3/8 line and keep the 5/16 for your return line. Just a thought....

Mike

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 772
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-13-2001 10:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks guys! I'm now contemplating doing the whole thing in braided line. I was going to use hard stainless line but I guess this will be better. Thanks again.

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 772
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-13-2001 10:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
BTW, I remember someone saying there was a place to get stainless line that is pretty cheap. Can anyone post that again? Thanks

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 772
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-17-2001 04:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I looked into cost, safety and looks and this is what I came up with. Doing the whole thing in braided line and fitting was just too expensive. The fittings are big $$$s.

I decided to do it in a combination of aluminum fuel line and socketless hose. The hose is actually just going to be from the firewall to about 6" out so that there is enough slack for the motor to torque. The rest will be aluminum fuel line with AN fittings (Tube Nuts/Sleeves), going to a AN fuel pressure gauge adapter, and then a AN to Pipe adapter into the injection. The return line will not have the pressure gauge adapter. I am planning to polish the aluminum line so it should look sharp and be safe. This is only from the firewall up to the injection. Back to the tank is regular steel line.

I found a place with excellent prices on Aeroquip fittings. www.racehose.com
I compared what I bought to Summit and it was over 30% less or you could say that Summit was about 50% more, depends on how you look at it. They also had a larger selection of fittings.

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Dr. Who
Gearhead

Posts: 164
From: Redwood City, Ca.
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 10-17-2001 04:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dr. Who   Click Here to Email Dr. Who     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Be sure the aluminum can't shake or move, it can (and will) crack very easy if it works at all.

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 772
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-17-2001 04:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
That's one of the things I'll look into. I will increase the length of the socketless hose enough to isolate the aluminum. It will move with the motor but it won't have any stress on it when it does.

Do you think it would be better to put the Aeroquip hose on both ends of the aluminum? I mean from the injection to the aluminum and then from the aluminum to the firewall. That might isolate it even more.

quote:
Originally posted by Dr. Who:
Be sure the aluminum can't shake or move, it can (and will) crack very easy if it works at all.

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 2047
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 10-21-2001 12:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Dan warren:
...Cheep insuranse.Ps Co2 extinguisers are expensive but they dont leave the white residue in your car. Dan

Dan, You are correct in that a CO2 (carbon dioxide) extinguisher doesn't leave any residue and are pricey when compared to the dry chemical units. But the downside is that they are not very small and, thus, most folks wouldn't want to carry such a bulky extinguisher in their car. They are, however, a GREAT choice to have standing ready in your garage!

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 2047
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 10-21-2001 12:42 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by RonnieT:
Check into the type of extinguisher you buy. Make sure it is a ABC fire extinguisher. Some of them are only good for 1 type of fire and will not do you much good for a gas fire. The dry chemical is about the best small extinguisher you can get for any vehicle fire. A Halon extinguisher is very good, but they are expensive and I hink they may be hard to find.

RonnnieT:
You bring out a good point. Typically, the dry chemical units are rated for "A, B & C" fires and will be the cheapest around. But, they are all coorosive. Another downside to them is that if you don't 'inspect/service' them every couple of months; they can "pack" and not even work if you wanted it to - even if the gage stills reads in the green!

The Halon units are way, way too expensive (but no residue). There is a Halon-replacement material available, but not widely known and isn't much cheaper. Both are available in the smaller sizes, and are typically the units of choice in computer rooms - due to no coorosive residue.

The CO2 units are only rated for "B,C" fires (fuels, oils, greases, plastics and electrical fires). The 'A' rating means the unit is also good for paper and wood fires. So, for most automotive shops, the "B, C"-rated CO2 extinguishers are preferred and work just fine.

Lastly,,, typically the units with a metal head can be serviced and refilled; whereas the plastic-headed units are typically throwaway units.

So if I had a fire going on in my garage or in the pits at the track, I'd use my CO2 unit on it first, then if necessary, I'd follow it up with a dry chemical unit, which is probably what the track has on hand. -- Eventhough it's a coorosive material; you gotta get the fire out!

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cynot65
Gearhead

Posts: 1177
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 10-22-2001 05:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cynot65   Click Here to Email cynot65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'm picking up an extinguisher this weekend....and my car's not even finished yet!!!!
Thanks for the wake up call and all the advice
Tony C*

------------------
65 Convertible 289 4spd
M&M Member#450
It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!!

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sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 2180
From: Far East, currently in Japan
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 10-22-2001 09:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Ryan Wilke:
You bring out a good point. Typically, the dry chemical units are rated for "A, B & C" fires and will be the cheapest around. But, they are all coorosive. Another downside to them is that if you don't 'inspect/service' them every couple of months; they can "pack" and not even work if you wanted it to - even if the gage stills reads in the green!

I did a search on yahoo for auto fire extinguishers and found some priced around $30-70 that were sodium bicarbonate based (baking soda) and it said that wasn't corrosive. Is that stuff different from the dry chemical extinguishers that you guys are referring to that is corrosive?

Anybody know for sure?

BTW, I found a source for halon, 2.5 lbs, $105-$135. Might be worth the money compared to cleanup and corrosiveness of the dry chemical types, and if the baking soda one turns out to be corrosive too.

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 2047
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 10-23-2001 02:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sigtauenus:
...that were sodium bicarbonate based (baking soda) and it said that wasn't corrosive. Is that stuff different from the dry chemical extinguishers that you guys are referring to that is corrosive?

Anybody know for sure?

BTW, I found a source for halon, 2.5 lbs, $105-$135. Might be worth the money compared to cleanup and corrosiveness of the dry chemical types, and if the baking soda one turns out to be corrosive too.


Sig:
According to the Material Safety Data Sheet (provided by the manufacturer, Badger Inc., Charlottesville, Virginia, 434-973-4361) the sodium bicarbonate extinguishing agent is "slightly corrosive". So, I'd guess that baking soda is less coorosive than what is typically loaded into most "ABC" fire extinguishers, ammonium phosphate. Thus, the sodium bicarbonate unit may be a better alternative to the expensive Halon or a larger CO2 extinguishers.

Bottomline - Whatever you do - #1) Have ANY TYPE of a working extingusher accessible (you don't want to have to HUNT for it while your car is burning down) in your garage and take it to the race track when you go (unless you are parked right next to your track's "Safety Station"). #2) Learn how to inspect/check the unit correctly twice a year; that way you'll KNOW it'll work when/if you need it.

I have two teenage boys. I started two pallets on fire in the driveway and had them put the fire out. Yeah,it cost me to have my 10-lb CO2 and 10-lb dry chemical extinguisher re-filled, but I wanted them to know EXACTLY how to use a fire extinguisher.

Even if there is a fire is at their school, a friends house, or wherever...they'd be the HERO by acting rather than 'reading the directions' while a fire raged on..... .....maybe they'd even save someone or themselves from needing multiple skin grafts... :/

Ryan

P.S.
Regardless of the size of town you live in - stop by your local fire dept. and ask about possible practice training excerises that you & your family could attend. If they don't, go to your next Township Meeting and ask if such a hands-on session could be 'budgeted' into their 2002 calendar.

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richard bohm
Gearhead

Posts: 373
From: tucson,az-luray,va
Registered: May 2001

posted 10-24-2001 12:07 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for richard bohm   Click Here to Email richard bohm     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
to all you fine gentlemen(and any ladies also) i have had experience with the halon fire extinguishers and they work great, dont leave a residue, and you can plumb the system so you can leave the unit bolted down and just pull a pin to release the the gas. yes it is expensive but overall cheap insurance in case of fire, and you dont have the clean up aggrivation to go through. jazzy i hope your mustan gcomes back better than ever. use the stainless steel tubing in 3/8 diameter, and use either the areoquip pushlok or braided high pressure fuel hose when you redo the fuel system. oh the reason i recomend plumbing the fire system into the car is speed. you dont have to get the unit then open the hood then use the system(tough way to go when you are excited).

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Dr. Who
Gearhead

Posts: 164
From: Redwood City, Ca.
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 10-24-2001 01:14 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dr. Who   Click Here to Email Dr. Who     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The other reason for plumbing the system is opening the hood! Many times you can get real well baked when popping the hood. I have a small Halon in a bicycle water bottle mount, not race approved cause if I turn the car over it would be running around with the CDs, coffee cup and whatever parts and tools or luggage might be in the car with me at the time, but it's easy to get out . If the fire's under my hood I'll have to find a stick or something to push the hood up while I stay as low as I can get. Fire is not friendly and I'm darn near bald now, fire would take away what few hairs I got left LOL.

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 2047
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 10-25-2001 05:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
(Although I've never had to try it so I don't know how well this works) In the case of an under-the-hood fire, I've been told to blast your extinguisher THRU the grill / radiator opening first; then open the hood to finish the job.... makes some sense to me.

Ryan

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sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 2180
From: Far East, currently in Japan
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 10-26-2001 03:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I went to the local fire department to ask about different extinguishers and they referred me to a guy at Jorgensen (they sell extinguishers).

The guy recommended the dry chemical and here's what he said about my corrosion concerns. He said that although the chemical is corrosive, its not immediate or really that strong. His van was covered in the stuff (he is in a mobile unit that refills extinguishers on-site) and he says he cleans the van about every 3-4 months and there's no sign of corrosion problems on his van.

Next, I told him about the 2.5 lb halon bottle, and he said 1), the price was too high ($135), I should only be paying about $16/pound plus the bottle, and 2), a 2.5 lb bottle of Halon would be useless if my car caught on fire. He said I would need at least a 5 lb bottle of Halon to equal the 2.5lb bottle of dry chemical. Halon is really good, but you need more of it.

My decision is I'd rather put the fire out and worry about cleaning it up on the back side than have to have a big bottle of halon or not have enough halon to do the job.

So, I bought a 2.5 lb bottle, its made by Badger and is all metal, ie no plastic, and he said to have it inspected/refilled about every 2-3 years because of the chemical becoming packed. Cost was about $23 including tax.

Oh yeah, it has an ABC rating.

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Dr. Who
Gearhead

Posts: 164
From: Redwood City, Ca.
Registered: Sep 2001

posted 10-26-2001 09:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dr. Who   Click Here to Email Dr. Who     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks sigtauenus! I guess my little halon is only good for decoration. I'll mount it on my minibike and get a grown up unit for the car .

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289 Rod
Journeyman

Posts: 63
From: Laguna Niguel, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 2001

posted 10-27-2001 03:30 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 289 Rod   Click Here to Email 289 Rod     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Gees...That sounds bad. At least you did not ruin the car making it a total loss. I recently lost my first 65 Mustang to an accident. I was driving late at night in the lane closest to the center divider and hydro-planed on some water which redirected my car towards the center divider. I hit it at about 50 mph. I ruined a 1 year old set of Gone In 60 Second Halibrand Wheels and the frame. Luckily the insurance covered the accident and the police officer did not put me at fault for the accident. Plus no one else was on the road and I did not get any injuries amazingly.

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Mike65
Gearhead

Posts: 2013
From: Bloomfield, NY, USA. Western Finger Lakes, 65 Fastback, 69 Coupe MCA #-04549
Registered: Dec 2000

posted 10-27-2001 04:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mike65   Click Here to Email Mike65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey JAZ glad all turned out ok & you or the car wasnt seriously hurt.

------------------
Mike & Robin
65 Mustang Fastback
69 Mustang Coupe
87 LTD CV
96 Ranger Extd Cab PU
99 Explorer Sport
M&M #- 890
MCA #- 04549

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