Some of the wiring for the fuel injection is toast. The distributor cap has melted. The K&N filter looks like the leaning tower of Pizza. Worst of all, on one part of my hood about a 4" x 10" section of paint has been discolored. My paint is expensive so this is probably the worst part. I can wire up all new connectors for the fuel injection myself but I figure about 6 hours of work. The dist. is the Comp 9000 so I'm sure the parts will run $75 and you all know the K&N filters aren't free! I'll need to test it first but I also might need a new TPS for the injection. My engine compartment was very clean and I'm not sure I'll be able to get the burns rubbed off of everything, especially without removimg the intake manifold.

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Tim

Did you get burned?

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

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Conciousness - that annoying time between naps.

Although these dry chemical units are cheap to buy & they do save your car from burning down to the ground; they can result in expensive damages if left in & on your ride.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC

Ryan,

Glad you weren't hurt.

Jaazzy, now for the big question, why did the fuel line rupture? What kind of fuel pressure were you running for the FI set-up. In my case when something breaks, it usually because I took a short cut, I hope this wasn't your situation.

Ryan(or anyone that knows),

Is the powder corrosive when dry or is it just when it mixes with moisture?

quote:

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Originally posted by kcode:
I got a fire bottle from a local Fire Protection company, supposed to have some purple stuff in it that is non-corrosive. Hope they are right, haven't had to use it yet.

Jaazzy, now for the big question, why did the fuel line rupture? What kind of fuel pressure were you running for the FI set-up. In my case when something breaks, it usually because I took a short cut, I hope this wasn't your situation.

Mike

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If you want to use the fittings they are the kind you just push in and forget, they don't even need hose clamps up to 200 psi. And let me tell ya, anyone that thinks those type of fittings might leak have never tried pressing a -10 fitting in by hand. When I mean to tell you it took *all* I got to press in those fittings I mean ALL. If you want to remove one from the hose, cutting the hose off is the ONLY way. I plumbed up a remote oil filter and oil cooler and haven't had a single drop leak, and the motor runs about 80psi cold.

I know its more than regular fuel line but it is a ton cheaper than stainless, much easier to install, and a whole lot of piece of mind.

quote:

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Originally posted by JAAZZY:
Well I will need some type of adapter to from the stock line to the stainless. Is the stock line 3/8 or is it 5/16. Thanks

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Aeroquip makes a trick compression fitting to adapt a hard line to braided hose.

I decided to do it in a combination of aluminum fuel line and socketless hose. The hose is actually just going to be from the firewall to about 6" out so that there is enough slack for the motor to torque. The rest will be aluminum fuel line with AN fittings (Tube Nuts/Sleeves), going to a AN fuel pressure gauge adapter, and then a AN to Pipe adapter into the injection. The return line will not have the pressure gauge adapter. I am planning to polish the aluminum line so it should look sharp and be safe. This is only from the firewall up to the injection. Back to the tank is regular steel line.

Do you think it would be better to put the Aeroquip hose on both ends of the aluminum? I mean from the injection to the aluminum and then from the aluminum to the firewall. That might isolate it even more.

quote:

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Originally posted by Dr. Who:
Be sure the aluminum can't shake or move, it can (and will) crack very easy if it works at all.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Dan warren:
...Cheep insuranse.Ps Co2 extinguisers are expensive but they dont leave the white residue in your car. Dan

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quote:

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Originally posted by RonnieT:
Check into the type of extinguisher you buy. Make sure it is a ABC fire extinguisher. Some of them are only good for 1 type of fire and will not do you much good for a gas fire. The dry chemical is about the best small extinguisher you can get for any vehicle fire. A Halon extinguisher is very good, but they are expensive and I hink they may be hard to find.

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RonnnieT:
You bring out a good point. Typically, the dry chemical units are rated for "A, B & C" fires and will be the cheapest around. But, they are all coorosive. Another downside to them is that if you don't 'inspect/service' them every couple of months; they can "pack" and not even work if you wanted it to - even if the gage stills reads in the green!

The Halon units are way, way too expensive (but no residue). There is a Halon-replacement material available, but not widely known and isn't much cheaper. Both are available in the smaller sizes, and are typically the units of choice in computer rooms - due to no coorosive residue.

The CO2 units are only rated for "B,C" fires (fuels, oils, greases, plastics and electrical fires). The 'A' rating means the unit is also good for paper and wood fires. So, for most automotive shops, the "B, C"-rated CO2 extinguishers are preferred and work just fine.

Lastly,,, typically the units with a metal head can be serviced and refilled; whereas the plastic-headed units are typically throwaway units.

quote:

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Originally posted by Ryan Wilke:
You bring out a good point. Typically, the dry chemical units are rated for "A, B & C" fires and will be the cheapest around. But, they are all coorosive. Another downside to them is that if you don't 'inspect/service' them every couple of months; they can "pack" and not even work if you wanted it to - even if the gage stills reads in the green!

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I did a search on yahoo for auto fire extinguishers and found some priced around $30-70 that were sodium bicarbonate based (baking soda) and it said that wasn't corrosive. Is that stuff different from the dry chemical extinguishers that you guys are referring to that is corrosive?

Anybody know for sure?

BTW, I found a source for halon, 2.5 lbs, $105-$135. Might be worth the money compared to cleanup and corrosiveness of the dry chemical types, and if the baking soda one turns out to be corrosive too.

quote:

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Originally posted by sigtauenus:
...that were sodium bicarbonate based (baking soda) and it said that wasn't corrosive. Is that stuff different from the dry chemical extinguishers that you guys are referring to that is corrosive?

Anybody know for sure?

BTW, I found a source for halon, 2.5 lbs, $105-$135. Might be worth the money compared to cleanup and corrosiveness of the dry chemical types, and if the baking soda one turns out to be corrosive too.

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Sig:
According to the Material Safety Data Sheet (provided by the manufacturer, Badger Inc., Charlottesville, Virginia, 434-973-4361) the sodium bicarbonate extinguishing agent is "slightly corrosive". So, I'd guess that baking soda is less coorosive than what is typically loaded into most "ABC" fire extinguishers, ammonium phosphate. Thus, the sodium bicarbonate unit may be a better alternative to the expensive Halon or a larger CO2 extinguishers.

Bottomline - Whatever you do - #1) Have ANY TYPE of a working extingusher accessible (you don't want to have to HUNT for it while your car is burning down) in your garage and take it to the race track when you go (unless you are parked right next to your track's "Safety Station"). #2) Learn how to inspect/check the unit correctly twice a year; that way you'll KNOW it'll work when/if you need it.

I have two teenage boys. I started two pallets on fire in the driveway and had them put the fire out. Yeah,it cost me to have my 10-lb CO2 and 10-lb dry chemical extinguisher re-filled, but I wanted them to know EXACTLY how to use a fire extinguisher.

Even if there is a fire is at their school, a friends house, or wherever...they'd be the HERO by acting rather than 'reading the directions' while a fire raged on..... .....maybe they'd even save someone or themselves from needing multiple skin grafts... :/

Ryan

The guy recommended the dry chemical and here's what he said about my corrosion concerns. He said that although the chemical is corrosive, its not immediate or really that strong. His van was covered in the stuff (he is in a mobile unit that refills extinguishers on-site) and he says he cleans the van about every 3-4 months and there's no sign of corrosion problems on his van.

Next, I told him about the 2.5 lb halon bottle, and he said 1), the price was too high ($135), I should only be paying about $16/pound plus the bottle, and 2), a 2.5 lb bottle of Halon would be useless if my car caught on fire. He said I would need at least a 5 lb bottle of Halon to equal the 2.5lb bottle of dry chemical. Halon is really good, but you need more of it.

My decision is I'd rather put the fire out and worry about cleaning it up on the back side than have to have a big bottle of halon or not have enough halon to do the job.

So, I bought a 2.5 lb bottle, its made by Badger and is all metal, ie no plastic, and he said to have it inspected/refilled about every 2-3 years because of the chemical becoming packed. Cost was about $23 including tax.