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Author	Topic: Brake dist. block
Mpcoluv Gearhead Posts: 792 From: Charlotte NC usa Registered: Apr 2001	posted 09-19-2001 06:46 AM Hi Guys, I am still having troubles with my 4 wheel disk conversion on my 69 stang..... Several people have said that I need to remove the innards from the factory distribution block that has the brake switch. I have taken off the left front fitting that acts as the plug for the block. There only appears to be a short post sticking out of the back of the cavity. There are no moving parts inside. Is this thing already gutted? IP: Logged
Mpcoluv Gearhead Posts: 792 From: Charlotte NC usa Registered: Apr 2001	posted 09-23-2001 09:34 AM Can anybody help with this one? IP: Logged
jkilroy Gearhead Posts: 1635 From: Vicksburg, MS Registered: Dec 99	posted 09-23-2001 12:56 PM The brake switch block is there to sense brake failure and should otherwise be invisible to the system. What kind of problems are you having? Pedal goes to floor? Pedal is soft or too hard? Vibration in when you lightly apply the pedal? You may have already posted this info but could you detail your conversion for me or point me to a post that already has it? Did you stay with the stock master cylinder? If that is the case the you almost certainly do not have enough volume coming from the mastery cylinder to properly activate the rear discs. ------------------ Jay Kilroy 68' Fastback GT 390 "No such thing as a cam thats too big" IP: Logged
Mpcoluv Gearhead Posts: 792 From: Charlotte NC usa Registered: Apr 2001	posted 09-23-2001 04:55 PM I have Granada disks up front. The Cadillac Seville calipers with MK 7 rotors on the rear. I am using a Wilwood master with a 1 1/16 bore. I also have an adjustable wilwood proportioning valve. I seemingly can't get the air out of the system. It takes two or three pumps to get the pedal firm. IP: Logged
jkilroy Gearhead Posts: 1635 From: Vicksburg, MS Registered: Dec 99	posted 09-23-2001 06:06 PM The way the safety switch works is by pressure differential. If one end (front or back) of the brake system has more pressure than the other the switch will activate. This is based on the idea that the pressures should be identical unless one end of the system was to fail, at which time the pressure would be zero. Unless it is malfunctioning I can't think that it is a problem. Some more things to check? Did you bench bleed your new master cylinder as instructed before installing? If this is not done there is almost no chance of getting all the air out. Are all of the rubber hoses in good shape? How have you been bleeding the brakes? The traditional 'two man' method, with bleeder screws (my favorite), or with a vacuum gun like a mighty vac? (Also not bad) ------------------ Jay Kilroy 68' Fastback GT 390 "No such thing as a cam thats too big" IP: Logged
Mpcoluv Gearhead Posts: 792 From: Charlotte NC usa Registered: Apr 2001	posted 09-23-2001 06:55 PM <>> I have bench bled the master twice. I have tried the two man and the Mity Vac. I am still trying the mity Vac :-P IP: Logged

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