Brings me to something funny I did when I was a bit younger but considering again. I had two batteries mounted in my trunk, one over each wheel with a switch that controlled which battery was active. There had just been a few too many instances where the battery died. This way I could turn the batteries off when parked and run on just one. I always had one fully charged one just in case something happened. Never got stuck again.... at least not for the lack of power.

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Originally posted by The Iceman:
check the manual, I know my shop manual has the various tests/symptoms of bad voltage regulators etc.
Check the alternator, it cant hurt!
If you have the stock 45amp alternator, you could always go for the 100amp version they now make
Best of luck with your '65, mine is almost done too (oddly enough, its just electrical probs, two in particular, that are holding me back from registering her )
have a good one

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Originally posted by JAAZZY:
.....I had two batteries mounted in my trunk, one over each wheel with a switch that controlled which battery was active. .............

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I had one in the trunk of my escort and carried long jumper cables, worked for me

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WAYNE CURTIS
70 GRABBER GREEN BOSS 302
01 Focus ZX3
03 Boss 281 (waiting on order form)
92 SHELBY 4X4 (K-9 IDITAROD LEAD DOG)
www.iditarodtrail.com
"If your under control then your not going fast enough" Parnelli Jones

P.S.: It also didn't hurt that I completely re-wired the engine bay and under the dash! Got to have that juice flowing through good wires!

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*andy* ([email protected])

also known as...***Boss Hoss***

I haven't double checked yet but I believe the wiring is correct. I actually didn't put it in this time. A reputable Mustang shop in the area did when they put in my new motor. The reality is though that I am running two electric fans and fuel injection. The fans say that they pull 7.5 amps so I would guess that is optimal and give it at least 10 amps so without anything else we are already at 20amps. I would say at least 10 amps to power the injection with the electric fuel pump. So 30 amps without taking into account any other devices in the car and any other losses. I figure that the 65amp I have now probably doesn't produce that much at idle so a 100amp seems the minimum. I was also planning to double check the wiring and install a new regulator at the same time. I went ahead and ordered the Chrome 100amp from Jegs. Thanks for the input.

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Originally posted by Boss Hoss:
Jaazzy:
I had the exact same problem recently with my '65. It turned out that I was an IDIOT and had connected the alternator wiring harness to the starter terminal of the solenoid instead of the battery terminal of the solenoid where it belongs. I also had a problem with the "ALT" light coming on even though I definitely had a good alternator. It turned out that I needed a new voltage regulator...now I have no charging problems! (knocking on wood)

P.S.: It also didn't hurt that I completely re-wired the engine bay and under the dash! Got to have that juice flowing through good wires!

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I also have the stock V belt. I am using the Holley injection though not the late model EFI. The Projection 4bbl has always worked well for me.

I like the idea of overdrive. That was one of the things that I had a problem with when I had a C4. I was reading in MF that Lentech has a AOD that they claim can take 1200hp. Sounds pretty good but I bet expensive.

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Originally posted by mellowyellow:
Jaazzy: Is the new alternator a one wire alternator or the Ford regulator kind. Are you running v-belts or serpentine? Asking this because am going with EFI and plan on keeping the v-belt set up and using a 100 amp alt. As I'm not going for all out performance, am running basic 92 EFI with AOD, or maybe, just keeping the c-4. The more I investigat, the more I like keeping the c-4.

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