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Author
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Topic: tricks for installing intake gaskets?
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project66
Gearhead Posts: 238
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 08-21-2001 04:56 PM
   
Mine leaks. As suggested here, I took a can of brake parts cleaner and got increased rpms when I sprayed an area on the driver's side, under the carb near the intake mounting studs. All the bolts were torqued to spec, so it looks like I'll be doing the gasket thing again. When I did it before (last month), I followed the instructions (sequence and torque limits) that came with the gasket (a Fel-Pro FPP-1250) and black rtv on one side of the gasket. The gasket is between a Holley intake and 302 heads. Question is, besides pitching the cork rubber end strips (which I used last time), what should I do differently to ensure this doesn't happen again? Does this kinda thing just happen occasionally, or is there something that I should inspect on the head or gasket. Appreciate the help- JimO
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 24286
From: Saco, Maine Toys: '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150
Registered: May 99
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posted 08-21-2001 06:54 PM
quote:
Originally posted by project66:
and black rtv on one side of the gasket.
Don't do that. The gaskets go on dry. You only use sealant in the front and back of the intake. {lifter valley rails.} Before you install your next set, lay the intake on the motor without gaskets and verify the port surfaces are parallel. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
Ford. The closer you look, the better WE look!
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bluestreek
Gearhead Posts: 827
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 08-21-2001 07:02 PM
I'll just tell you about some of my experience.. I kept having all kinds of intake leaks and finally decided to take a closer look.. What I found was the front and rear surfaces were tightening up before the port surfaces were. I did some research and found that my heads were shaved somewhere along the line and this is what caused the mismatch.. I took my intake to the shop and had the front and rear surfaces shaved .060 and then reinstalled it using new fel-pros and a bead of Silicone in place of the cork gaskets. It has worked perfectly now for 5 yrs!!!  [This message has been edited by bluestreek (edited 08-21-2001).]
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JAAZZY
Gearhead Posts: 723
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-21-2001 07:39 PM
It shouldn't happen occasionally. It does happen though. I would re-torque them after running it for a little while just to be safe.Steve is right, don't use the silicon on the gaskets. This could be your problem.
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kcode
Gearhead Posts: 2170
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 08-21-2001 11:21 PM
Jim,
It sounds like your leak is on #6 or 7 cylinder and I would guess that the intake gasket slipped down when you placed the intake manifold back on. We covered this about a week or so ago, pretty thoroughly. Anyway, before and during the torqueing sequence of the intake bolts, you should be able to see the top portion of the intake gasket between the intake and the head. The same amount should be visable above each port. This will give you a visual to see if it slips. Also, use some 5/16-18 studs to keep the intake gasket inplace when lowering the intake on.  Mike
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project66
Gearhead Posts: 238
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 08-22-2001 12:11 PM
Thanks, everybody. Gonna give this another shot tonight and will let you know. JimO
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project66
Gearhead Posts: 238
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 08-27-2001 10:12 AM
Replaced the intake gasket yesterday and now have water in the oil. Guess that's why we put rtv around the water ports, huh? (I didn't).Used studs to align the manifold, a bead of rtv instead of cork gasket, the crossover restrictors that came with the gasket set, surfaces were clean and, as far as I could tell, parallel. Got an old Ford guy in the neighborhood. Think its time to have him over my shoulder when I take my next shot at this. Never figured it to be such a hassle. Crud! JimO
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richard bohm
Gearhead Posts: 370
From: tucson,az-luray,va
Registered: May 2001
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posted 08-27-2001 05:37 PM
one trick you might try that i have used with great success on the race cars i have worked on is use the rtv on the ends and around the water passages and coat the rest on both sides with a LIGHT coating of white grease. it seals the ports and makes it easy to remove and clean the intake if you should remove it again.
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Boss Hoss
Gearhead Posts: 203
From: Georgia
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 08-28-2001 09:05 AM
I recently replaced my intake manifold gaskets...I put them on absolutely dry with only a VERY thin ring of gasket adhesive around the water passage holes. Notice I said "gasket adhesive" and not silicone. I did NOT silicone on the intake gaskets...I used Permatex brush-on gasket adhesive #80062. I did use about a half-inch tall bead of Permatex "Ultra Black" silicone on the front and back instead of the cork pieces. Seems to be working fine, especially since I have discovered that I didn't have a vacuum leak after all...it was an electrical problem! (Keeping fingers crossed)------------------
*andy* ([email protected]) also known as... ***Boss Hoss***
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