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Author
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Topic: INSTALLING INTAKE MANIFOLD
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Boss Hoss
Gearhead Posts: 222
From: Georgia
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 08-13-2001 12:59 PM
   
Hello All:I have removed and re-painted the intake manifold on the 289 V-8 in my 1965 Mustang. From what I've heard, it is kind of tricky to re-install the intake. DOES ANYBODY HAVE ANY TIPS ON HOW TO DO THIS SUCCESSFULLY? I have bought threaded studs to keep the manifold aligned properly while I'm lowering it onto the engine, but...HOW DO I KEEP THE NEW MANIFOLD GASKETS IN PLACE WHILE I LOWER THE MANIFOLD ONTO THE ENGINE? ANY advice would be appreciated, including step-by-step instructions! I will be attempting this in the next couple of days, so I need the information rather quickly...THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THEIR HELP! ANDY ([email protected])
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Ronster
Journeyman Posts: 11
From: Stockton, CA US A
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 08-13-2001 02:19 PM
First of all, I always take the cork end gaskets and throw them as far as I can! Instead, I run about a 1\2 inch tall bead of black silicone on both the front and back of the block where these little guys used to go. It's best to wait overnight for the silicone to seal, but I have gone out and run the car right after putting an intake on with no side effects. This has always worked for me. I have never had a leak from that area. Now of course it's not "stock", but it works. A word of advise. DO NOT put any silicone around the intake ports. If the water jackets are eroded on either head, use just a small dab where needed as the silicone will change the thickness between the head and intake. Too much can cause it not to seal proberly. Good Luck!
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Tom351
Journeyman Posts: 93
From: Marietta,GA
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 08-13-2001 02:31 PM
He is right about the end seals.Also, you can use a couple long studs threaded into the intake bolt holes to help guide the intake into place and hold it there until you get some other bolts started, then remove the studs. This will also hold the gaskets in place. ------------------
67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint
351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Carter 750 CFM, Comp. Cam 477/510 219/[email protected], Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars.
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bibbs68
Gearhead Posts: 1113
From: Jackson, TN
Registered: Sep 2000
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posted 08-14-2001 04:05 PM
Well, there is always a contradicting story somewhere. Here is mine. I used the cork end gaskets and have had no problem after about 7 months. I used gasket adhesive to hold the cork in place. I placed a thin layer on the block and a thin layer on the bottom side of the cork gasket. Let it stand for about a minute to get tacky then install. Then on the top side of the gasket I put a small bead of Silicone Blue RTV. Then installed the intake manifold. Worked like a champ. If you are going for stock, obviously you need the cork and this will work for you.
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bibbs68
Gearhead Posts: 1113
From: Jackson, TN
Registered: Sep 2000
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posted 08-14-2001 04:06 PM
[QUOTE]Originally posted by bibbs68:
[B]I used gasket adhesive to hold the cork in place. I also used this adhesive to hold the side gaskets in place as well.
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JAAZZY
Gearhead Posts: 745
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-14-2001 05:34 PM
The cork just blows out sometimes is why the silicon is great. If you make the bead a little larger than the size of the gap it forms a lip on the inside when it dries and is just about impossible to blow out. I had some problems with a bit of oil coming through with the cork and switched to silicon and have never had a problem since. It's probably relevant to add that motor saw 6000+ rpm frequently.
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