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Author Topic:   primer
65mustang
Gearhead

Posts: 135
From: Stockton,CA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 08-13-2001 12:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65mustang   Click Here to Email 65mustang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
i wet sanded my mustang and was going to shoot it with some auto primer but i was thinking, what if i sprayed it with primer from a can. i know thats not the "right way" to do it but i decided im going to sell the coupe after i primer it and buy a fastback.i just want to primer it cause the paint was ugly and faded and now its wet sanded. would spray primer from a can be all that bad? i just want it to temporarily look good. any input would be great.

thanks.

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 4307
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 08-13-2001 12:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
That will work, temporarily.

SteveW

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65mustang
Gearhead

Posts: 135
From: Stockton,CA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 08-13-2001 01:10 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65mustang   Click Here to Email 65mustang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
but will you be able to tell that it is spray can primer?If I do use it,how many coats should i put on and should i wetsand in betwwen coats or after 2 or 3. i want it to look kind of decent.

[This message has been edited by 65mustang (edited 08-13-2001).]

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Fastymz
Gearhead

Posts: 5145
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 08-13-2001 05:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I just primered my car a mo, ago.I did not use cans not sure how it would come out.I did not have to wet sand in between coats with the primer I used.I used a spray gun and PPG-90 primer with a sealer.It looks great and the total cost was $120.It may be worth it to look into doing it with a spray gun rather then a cans.Ron

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65 coupe with a stock 1969 351w,RPM intake,carter625cfm,shorty hedmen hedders,black magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Boss 429 hood scoop.

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Brope
Journeyman

Posts: 12
From: San Antonio, TX
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 08-13-2001 06:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Brope   Click Here to Email Brope     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I helped a buddy "rattle can" his pick-up, and it turned out alright. When my coupe was done, it was done with a gun and I think there was a world of difference.

To play devil's advocate... I wouldn't want a car that wasn't prep'd correctly. Especially if I was planning on paining it. The $120 does't seem bad.

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 24286
From: Saco, Maine Toys: '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150
Registered: May 99

posted 08-13-2001 07:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If I ever meet the $%[email protected]%^ guy that spray bombed my Mach 1....

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
Ford. The closer you look, the better WE look!

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cynot65
Gearhead

Posts: 855
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 08-13-2001 07:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cynot65   Click Here to Email cynot65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I got a question for you guys. I'm finshed with all the welding on my car. Everything is out, and off of it. I have wire brushed the entire undercarriage. The engine compartment is wire brushed also. It's on the 4jackstands waitng to get done. Here is the question. What do I do? Is it a good idea to prime the car before any body work begins? I am going to be "prepping" the car for the fine body work to be done. I could prime it either way but would feel better about using a gun. I ask because work constraints are putting a major crimp in time. I may not get to touch this car for a month or more. so it's gonna sit and I don't want to have to wirebrush again. That s**t is hard on the hands and arms after 3 or 4 hours of laying on your back trying to keep the$^*[email protected]$ rust and dirt out of your eyes. (and loving every grimy second of it. I come back in the house REVVVVED)
So, prime now, start the prep work.
or start the prep work, then prime?
Tony C*

[This message has been edited by cynot65 (edited 08-13-2001).]

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Fastymz
Gearhead

Posts: 5145
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 08-13-2001 08:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If it will sit for that long I would prime it.Even if its just with a rattle can.Start the perp work and prime as you go.When your done with the perp work then prime the hole car with a gun.

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65 coupe with a stock 1969 351w,RPM intake,carter625cfm,shorty hedmen hedders,black magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Boss 429 hood scoop.

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 24286
From: Saco, Maine Toys: '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150
Registered: May 99

posted 08-13-2001 08:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I would highly recommend that before you prime it, you clean the metal with metal prep, such as PPG DX-579 metal cleaner, then treat it with PPG DX-530 metal conditioner which etches the metal and leaves a nice zinc phosphate coating similar to galvanized iron. Then prime it with a good rust proof coating like Zero-Rust, POR-15, or Rustoleum.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
Ford. The closer you look, the better WE look!

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65mustang
Gearhead

Posts: 135
From: Stockton,CA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 08-13-2001 08:58 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65mustang   Click Here to Email 65mustang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
well in my case i decided to spray it with a gun.so how many coats do i need? and should i sand it between coats if more than 1 is needed? I have a ppg paint place downtown so i will go pick up some primer there.

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Fastymz
Gearhead

Posts: 5145
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 08-13-2001 09:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I didnt have to sand between coats.I used a non sanding primer and sealer.But for my case it's going to be a while before I do the finale body work and paint.It came out so cool I'm sure I'll ever paint it.At Hot August Nights this year I got alot of possitive feed back on the paint.Talk to the guys at a good paint shop they will help you the best.

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65 coupe with a stock 1969 351w,RPM intake,carter625cfm,shorty hedmen hedders,black magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Boss 429 hood scoop.

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 723
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 08-13-2001 09:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have heard that primer holds moisture and thus cause rust if it is not painted for a long period. You may want to look into it.

quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
I didnt have to sand between coats.I used a non sanding primer and sealer.But for my case it's going to be a while before I do the finale body work and paint.It came out so cool I'm sure I'll ever paint it.At Hot August Nights this year I got alot of possitive feed back on the paint.Talk to the guys at a good paint shop they will help you the best.


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Fastymz
Gearhead

Posts: 5145
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 08-13-2001 09:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
JAAZZY Your right and I did look into it and was told by both the paint shop and form some auto body shops in town.That as long as you use the ppg sealer primer mix.It could go for along time befor being painted it will fade but it will not let moister in.

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65 coupe with a stock 1969 351w,RPM intake,carter625cfm,shorty hedmen hedders,black magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Boss 429 hood scoop.

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 723
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 08-13-2001 09:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks, good to know.

quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
JAAZZY Your right and I did look into it and was told by both the paint shop and form some auto body shops in town.That as long as you use the ppg sealer primer mix.It could go for along time befor being painted it will fade but it will not let moister in.


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MrXerox
Gearhead

Posts: 230
From: Oklahoma, Oklahoma, USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 08-14-2001 01:06 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for MrXerox   Click Here to Email MrXerox     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Always remember, a paint job is only as nice as the primer under it..It must be smooth and slick as you expect the paint to be. We wet sanded and primed my car three full times before we ever thought of painting it. I know it is a pain to do and seems like it will not matter much but the extra time will give you a mirror like finish that will make the slammer job look horrible.

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cynot65
Gearhead

Posts: 855
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 08-14-2001 09:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cynot65   Click Here to Email cynot65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'm sold on the ppg-90. I spoke to a guy who restored a @+!#%[email protected] beautiful 65 GTO. He swears by the stuff.
Big Guy that PPG DX-579 and the DX-530 sound very serious. What kind of chemical risk is there? And then seam sealer? and then primed for paint? I refuse to rattle can the car so is there a less expensive primer that I can use to just spray a coat on the car to prevent any rust from starting?
MrXerox your point is well taken. My car will not see the light of day for at least 6 months so I have nothing but time to do it right. I swear to you and all others I'm doing this car ONCE for the rest of my life. Unless a catastrophy then I just swallow lead.
Thanks for your help guys.
PS. Is that stuff expensive?
Tony C*

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65 Convertible 289 4spd
M&M Member#450

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 24286
From: Saco, Maine Toys: '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150
Registered: May 99

posted 08-15-2001 07:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cynot65:
Big Guy that PPG DX-579 and the DX-530 sound very serious. What kind of chemical risk is there? And then seam sealer? and then primed for paint?

PS. Is that stuff expensive?


All chemicals need to be treated with respect. I use gloves and keep the garage door open. A face shield isn't a bad idea, either.

If there is light surface rust, the DX-579 wipes it right off like it's dirt! It then turns the metal from gray to a blueish tint.

The DX-530 etches the metal and turns it gray like galvanized metal. The paint has a great bite with that.

Then you prime, then body seal.

We're fortunate, the chemicals we have today should let our Mustangs live forever!

Oh, they each cost about $20/qt.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
Ford. The closer you look, the better WE look!

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cynot65
Gearhead

Posts: 855
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 08-16-2001 09:05 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for cynot65   Click Here to Email cynot65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I can protect myself from the chemicals. Thanks Big Guy! I've got all the steps written down now all I have to do is start.
Tony C*

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