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Author Topic:   289 Bolt-On recommendations and help

Posts: 1420
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001

posted 08-10-2001 11:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rockafellz   Click Here to Email rockafellz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

I am a novice mechanic and basically know how the parts of the engine work. I don't plan on rushing my setup and plan to do every mod myself. Please help me find good quality parts for my 289.

I have a mainly stock 289 with a Holley 600cfm carb and an original Ford 4bbl intake. The engine has 30k miles on the rebuild.

I plan on pulling the Holley and replacing it with an Edelbrock 600cfm (just cause I hear Edelbrock holds the tuning longer). I'm also thinking about replacing the intake with an Edelbrock as well. Is replacing it a good idea or just stick with the stock 4bbl intake manifold?

Next I plan on replacing the exhaust manifold. I've read up on Hooker, JBA Shorty, and Edelbrock. I'm kinda favoring Hooker and Edelbrock just cause it goes all the way down. If you can recommend a better one that would be great. I'll finish the exhaust off with either some glass packs or flowmasters

Going down the list... I plan to buy a modified cylinder head set. I "was" favoring Trick Flow for a while, but when I read up that the stock pistons weren't going to clear the valves on their heads I decided to keep on looking. I've been looking into Edelbrock heads and I think they have a setup to where I can keep my stock pistons. If there are some better heads out there where I can keep my stock pistons, please let me know.

For the camshaft, I'm not exactly sure what to get. There are so many out there, it's hard to choose. I just want one where it won't push the valves into the pistons.

Same goes for the distributor and ignition systems. Not sure in that category as well. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

The engine has a 3 row radiator and a freshly rebuilt C-4 transmission. Would a 4 row radiator be recommended or is a 3 row sufficient?

I've been looking into the B&M shift improver kit and it seems pretty cool, but does it mess the transmission up over time?

I know this post is very long, but I'd like as much input as possible. I basically want to do as much mods as I can without pulling out the block. Come to think of it...can cylinder heads and camshafts be replaced with the block still in the car?

I plan to do these mods within a span of 1-2 years, no rush.

Thanks in advance for any replies.


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The Iceman

Posts: 2116
From: Shelton, CT
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 08-10-2001 12:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for The Iceman   Click Here to Email The Iceman     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Erik, let me be the first to welcome you to M&M! Youve struck gold with this site and there are more than enough knowledgeable people who will be able to give you the answers you want and quickly
Alright, I can answer one or two of the questions haha:
As many people on this board have said over and over, if youre willing to spend the little bit of extra $ the Hooker Super Comp headers are the best out there - hands down! (watch someone is going to come on and say Im wrong and my info is wrong haha, wouldnt be surprised )

You could go with glass packs if you favor that sound, however, the Flowmasters either 2-chamber or 3-chamber (2-chambers have more of a drone and louder interior resonance) have a nice sound to them. Also, if youd like, you could try Smithy glass packs (Im not sure how theyd sound on a V8, but they sound great on my six! - 26") -- they come in 22", 26", and 30" and only cost $25.

You could probably stick with the 3-row radiator, at least if it had worked alright before! -- if you want to add some cooling potential, you could go with an Electric fan, or just get a fan shroud. The choice is yours

As for the B&M shift kit, my bro just had a Beauman Shift Kit installed into his '89 5.0 AOD and according to what people have said as well as the company to which he spoke personally, the shift kit can actually extend the life of your transmission

Ignition - you could get rid of the points system and convert to a Pertronix Electronic Ignition, match that up with a Pertronix Flamethrower coil, and get some better plug wires and voila! you have a better than Stock setup! However, for more of a PERFROMANCE upgrade, MSD and Duraspark offer great ignition modules and distributors

and i do believe that is all i can help you with haha
have a good one, post often, enjoy this place, dont be shy to ask questions, go over to Sams Place and introduce yourself and FINALLY get some pics of your Stang for us!

1965 Coupe "BeeBop" 200ci Straight "6"~2.77 3-spd w/Hurst Shifter~Pertronix Elec. Ign.~Flamethrower Coil~Flex-Fan~Clifford 6-2 Header~26" Smithys~3" chrome tips
Nothing Beats Six In A Classic Mustang! ;)

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Posts: 2180
From: Far East, currently in Japan
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 08-10-2001 02:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Dan did a pretty good job so far.

Alex SteveL, and SteveW are pretty experienced fellas and will tack some stuff on here (correctly my bad advice) as well, give them a couple days.

My advice based on what you've said is to not do things twice. IE, it costs too much to buy a pertronix to eliminate the points and then take out the whole thing in favor of a duraspark or MSD etc. Pick what you want and do it.

Also, the cam can be replaced with the block in the car, but you have to pull the radiator and maybe the grill too. Here again is where you don't want to do things twice. Since the intake has to come off to change the cam/lifters, don't change one until you already have the other lined up. Its a wasted gasket set if you change the intake then pull it again a couple months later to change the cam or vice versa.

I know Alex recommends the C90X intake, he says it is hands down the best small block intake ever, it is the 302 intake that came on 69 Shelby's. I just bought one myself for my car. Even though its a Shelby intake, you can buy them cheaper than the earlier 65-66 Shelby intakes and I think its cheaper than the Edelbrock RPM Air Gap too. I bought mine through a private deal, but I've seen the C9OX sell on ebay for $150-$200. I paid a little bit more than that because I trusted the seller's quality better than I do the scammers on ebay. The Air Gap intake is Alex's second choice I believe.

As far as carbs go, if you are planning on just a street car, why not stick with the stock Autolite 4100? When you look at the engineering numbers, the stock carb is actually really good and it has EXCELLENT daily driver reliability. I tossed my Holley about 5 years ago in favor of the Autolite and am really glad I did.

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Posts: 8754
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 08-10-2001 04:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
For a cam, try the Comp 270S, or a 270H if you want hydraulic lifters.

For the heads, it's hard to beat the price of Windsor Jrs. Edelbrock Performer rpms are a couple hundred more but lighter.

Everything else has been covered.


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Posts: 772
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 08-10-2001 04:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You mentioned the TFS heads having a problem with valve clearance. Off the top of my head I can't remember the specifics but they will tell you the clearance if you give them a call. They are okay up to certain lifts.

Your cam depends on your compression and where you want the power. This will also determine the intake.

I have 3 chamber flows. They sound great but are very loud. As I am a bit older than I was when I started all this I might switch to Super Turbos to quiet the car a little.

Oh yeah and Dan, You're Wrong! I'm not sure why but you are.

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The Iceman

Posts: 2116
From: Shelton, CT
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 08-10-2001 06:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for The Iceman   Click Here to Email The Iceman     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Jas, yeah yeah suuuuuuuuuure
haha its actually something that makes me a little proud to think that I can pass on some good and useful info from observations and experiences
Ive learned more in the past year about cars than i ever thought id know!
have a good one

1965 Coupe "BeeBop" 200ci Straight "6"~2.77 3-spd w/Hurst Shifter~Pertronix Elec. Ign.~Flamethrower Coil~Flex-Fan~Clifford 6-2 Header~26" Smithys~3" chrome tips
Nothing Beats Six In A Classic Mustang!

[This message has been edited by The Iceman (edited 08-10-2001).]

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Posts: 21889
From: Buckroe Beach Va MCA#39406 M&M #12 Member Mustang Club of Tidewater
Registered: May 99

posted 08-10-2001 06:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mustangs68   Click Here to Email mustangs68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Welcome to M&M
I gotta agree with alls been said.

The 270H cam is great
Jr heads are worth the bang for the buck (58cc ones now)

I'm using both.
click on "My 289"


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Posts: 805
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 08-10-2001 06:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Toronado3800     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Welcome Rockafellz,
They've made a few good points, especially with being carefull not to duplicate your labor. I'd say rack up on the external mods first and then save the heads etc for last.

I really dug the sound of glasspacks on a H-pipe exhaust.

Steve, what do you think about the Dual Energy Cams Comp offers? It's a loaded questtion since I have the 265 DEH (265/273, 211/2[email protected], .472 IL/.486 EX, 110deg) cam going into my rebuilt 351.

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