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Author Topic:   Paint question
SteveLaRiviere
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Posts: 43151
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-28-2001 08:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I will be painting some bare metal, using PPG MEK Acrylic Urethane. What should I use as a primer?

Epoxy primer, or self-etching primer?

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
Ford. The closer you look, the better WE look!

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Gary
Gearhead

Posts: 726
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-28-2001 09:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Gary   Click Here to Email Gary     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What type of metal alum. or steel? Under my urethane yellow paint for the Mustang I used a urethane primer with activator. Not a true epoxy but a good foundation. Alum. pieces I would use the self ecthing primer. If you use epoxy primer I would topcoat with-in three days for good adhesion or you will have to scuff again and recoat before color. To be honest, read the application guides that are offered with various paints to decide on what you should use..as all are not the same product to product. You can spend a fortune on paint and supplies, depending on what your painting and what you are willing to spend will help you decide what you need. Everybody has their veiw on painting, I use what gives me good results time and time again, I used top of the line paints on the Yellow Mustang but thats my keeper. As always, the paint is only as good as whats under it...

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SteveLaRiviere
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Posts: 43151
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-28-2001 10:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Sheetmetal. A stone deflector, actually. I want to get a look at the paint on some parts.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
Ford. The closer you look, the better WE look!

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kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 3029
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-28-2001 11:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Steve,
I use the PPG DP epoxy, which has been made obsolete and replaced with a no lead version. If you are not intending on sanding before topcoat this will work. DP is not sandable, it should be covered with a sandable primer. I also use the DP as a sealer, reduced of course. Works good for me.

Mike

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 43151
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-29-2001 05:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
So you lay down epoxy primer, sandable primer, block sand, then spray the topcoat?

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
Ford. The closer you look, the better WE look!

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Gary
Gearhead

Posts: 726
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-29-2001 05:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Gary   Click Here to Email Gary     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yes you can but sealer over the primer then topcoat would be best, iv'e done it both ways without any problems. The sealer goes on right before the topcoat, usally and hour or two before your color. Again, read the product info you plan to use and try to use the same brands of materials from start to finish. Iv'e mixed brands before but always had that what if question in the back of my mind if I should have. Lucky for me Iv'e had no re-calls (screw-ups)doing so

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 43151
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-29-2001 05:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
So we have epoxy primer, sandable primer, block sand, seal coat then spraying the topcoat?

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
Ford. The closer you look, the better WE look!

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kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 3029
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-29-2001 11:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You got it right chief. Seems like a lot of work, but you want it to last don't you? The sandable primer is porus in nature, the DP reduced as a sealer will seal the primer from bleeding color through to the topcoat. What ever happened to the old prime and color?

Mike

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 6687
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 07-30-2001 12:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Just a thought, you may want to include the edges of your new fender prior to installation. Ultimately, that factory primer will allow rust to happen. You'll have plenty of paint to do it

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sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 2219
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 07-30-2001 12:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Wow, thanks to you guys I found my color! Its the blue 67 Shelby on Metro's home page. I'll try to load it here...

Anyhow, I love that blue color. Email sent to Metro to ask what the code is.

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 07-30-2001 10:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
We painted this car with 4 coats of Royal Blue single stage with 21% Pearl additive.. Single stage paint adds the clearcoat to the mix.. We used a tan colored primer to lighten the tint.. A grey primer would darken the tint and a red primer would give it a more violet tint instead of true blue... Looks like the color you're looking for..

http://www.picturelist.net/Images/dbhard/Dcp00269.jpg

[This message has been edited by bluestreek (edited 07-30-2001).]

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sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 2219
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 07-30-2001 12:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Was Royal Blue an optional Ford color, or maybe an option on Shelby's, or anything like that. I've seen several cars painted that color, but its not on the 68 paint code list.

Bluestreek, thanks for the tip on the primer, I'll have to remember to go with the tan, it looks pretty good.

What is the advantage of adding clearcoat directly to the mix? I guess you don't have to worry about it separating and peeling off like so many cars do.

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 07-30-2001 01:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'll get some more detailed specs and color coding later this evening and post as much info as possible..
I like the info that was posted about the primer sealer.. Removing and killing rust or any other oxidation is absolutley necessary to keep "bubbles" from coming up under the paint.. There should be little or no moisture present in the air or on the surface when painting also.. Once you get the topcoat on, the moisture or rust is trapped and can work under the paint for months to come..

My bro-in-laws Nova in the picure that I posted earlier was our first paint project and took 3 months of body preperation.. Then lot's of priming, blocking, and filling,... priming, blocking,and filling,... priming and blocking, etc...etc..., until we could no longer see any high spots, low spots, dings, dents, or wrinkles.... After it was painted, we still found a couple small low spots in some panels and wished we had spent at least 1 more week of blocking and priming.. It looks great, but not perfect.. Oh well, My '66 Mustang is next and we have more experience under our belt..

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sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 2219
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 07-30-2001 08:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Here's a pic of my other paint choice, alcopulco blue. Whaddaya say, Bluestreek, if I go with the grey primer this will be darker? I'm now thinking the Royal Blue is a little too rich of a blue, hence the idea of alcopulco blue deepened by a dark primer.

(Steve, sorry to borrow your thread here, I probably should have posted this in the "blues" thread)


[This message has been edited by sigtauenus (edited 07-30-2001).]

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SteveLaRiviere
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Posts: 43151
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-30-2001 08:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sigtauenus:
(Steve, sorry to borrow your thread here, I probably should have posted this in the "blues" thread)

No problem. I was going to say that looks like the color on the underside of my trunk lid.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
Ford. The closer you look, the better WE look!

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 07-30-2001 10:58 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The paint we used was purchased at Pittsburg Paint.. The code was FM 340 for a 94-97 Ford Taurus..It has 2 parts that are mixed when ready to spray ( called 2K).. You asked about darkening the final color.. We got the color we wanted by applying 4 coats.. The best thing I can tell you is that colors are adaptable to any color of primer and the more final coats that are applied, the deeper and darker the color will get.. You can also request a custom primer color or sealer to get a certain tint.. Just tell em what you want.. Paint systems have come a long way since the old days.

Have fun!!

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