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  Motor Mount Confusion-65

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Author Topic:   Motor Mount Confusion-65
kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 2983
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-24-2001 10:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'm starting to gather up all of the pieces to put the 347 in my coupe. On thing I want to change is the motor mounts. Don't want to use the precious/expensive original Kcode mounts on my current motor. In the Mustang Plus newsletter they had an article on using standard A or C code mounts and drilling an extra hole through the mount and the L bracket for another bolt to restrict the movement of the block somewhat. Anyway, I ordered a set of mounts from NPD, 6038-4 and 6038-5. They were delivered today, now my question, is there a difference in thickness between the right and left sides. The ones I got are about 3/8 to 1/2 different in thickness of the rubber insulator. The ones I disassembled to get the L brackets from were both the same thickness. Which is correct? BTW, these are for a 65 289

Mike

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 8754
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 07-25-2001 12:03 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Mike,

I dunno about the '65 mounts, but if you chain the motor down you won't have a problem with mounts! I did it to Melissa's and it's been through 150+ second gear burnouts dropping the clutch at 6000 rpms and subsequent launches. Leave about 1/3" slack in the chain and it'll save the mounts when it counts. Good luck buddy,

SteveW

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 18143
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 07-23-2001 08:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Kcode.I'm not sure about the size.But when I changed mine in april they were the same size,from what I remember.I read that same thing about putting in the extra bolt it sounds like it would work.
Steve,I cant find a place to put a chain.If I place it on the front of the drivers side head.It will hit the oil sender.I had to use the extension on the oil sender to get it to fit the block.I cant put it on the back side of the drivers side head or block no room at all.Were did you put the chain and what size chain did you use.Thanks Ron

------------------
65 coupe with a stock 1969 351w,RPM intake,carter625cfm,shorty hedmen hedders,black magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Boss 429 hood scoop.

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kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 2983
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-25-2001 10:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Steve, don't really want to put a chain to the block or head. I want to try the bolt thingie first. Ron Bramlett said that they have done this on most of their cars. The extra bolt is left loose a couple of threads to allow some movement, they used a ny-loc style nut to keep it from backing off.

I'm still baffled on the thickness. Overall thickness on the driverside is 1.140" and the passengerside is 1.425".

Wheres is our resident NPD member when we need him

Mike

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 6609
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 07-26-2001 08:20 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
WHen I put the engine in my 65 (March 65 car} I suspect that it had later mounts, which were missing upon purchsase, I used 66 mounts and got new motor mount pads. Perhaps, I could use some enlightenment as we had a helluva time getting the motor to sit level. I experimented with a half dozen pads before finding a suitable combination. I have to keep an eye on the driver mount as it loosened. I put in new grade 8 bolts with loctite. It might not be kosher, but I don't think a chain is a bad idea. I bet Alex has an answer. I hope you take that rocket to Atlanta in Sept.!!

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Jeff
Gearhead

Posts: 306
From: Moore, OK USA
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 07-28-2001 05:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jeff   Click Here to Email Jeff     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The two piece frame brackets are installed such the tab/bolt side faces forward. The cradle should sit at 45 degrees. The frame bracket upper hole may not align with the existing holes in the shock tower. They may be about 3/8 inch off from allowing you to slip a 3/8 bolt through it. The criteria is for the cradle to slope at 45 degrees such the motor mounts, when attached will be horizontal. For my car, I marked the position where the bolt should go through the bracket, then took the brackets to a welding shop for modification. The modification consisted of welding a very thick 3/8 ID washer to the frame bracket at the new hole position, then drilling out the center. This was done in the four upper bolt holes in the two frame brackets. The brackets were installed and the motor mounts fitted to the engine. The engine was lowered into place and the frame brackets and motor mounts pinned with the fore/aft bolts.

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sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 2180
From: Far East, currently in Japan
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 07-28-2001 06:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Mike, sounds like you are using the early 65 mounts that have a single bolt molded into the rubber motor mount that goes down through the metal bracket.

Not sure if this would be a factor or not, but it is my understanding that the late 65 to late 66 motor mounts differ from the later 66 and up motor mounts in the rubber thickness. Not sure which one is thicker though. Maybe the manufacturer mislabeled the box?

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