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Author
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Topic: petronix problems
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dhearn
Gearhead Posts: 242
From: Owenton Ky,USA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 07-07-2001 09:39 PM
   
HI YALL, it been a while since I have been in here. the question I've got today is has anbody had problems with their petronix module? I installed mine it seemed to work well but I put the car away for about three months and when I went to start it it wouldnt start I found that the module was a dead short causing the ignition wires to get really hot hot enuff that I think if I would have forgot and left the key on in the car would now be toast. when I installed it I wired the red wire to the (+) side of the coil and the black wire to the other side of the coil and also left the original wire on the (+) terminal. I am running a stock dist. and a MSD blaster3 coil. did I do something wrong? let me know......Dennis
69 H-code Mach1
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66 coupe
Gearhead Posts: 234
From: Orlando, FL
Registered: Nov 99
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posted 07-07-2001 10:03 PM
I think that Pertronix warns against using certain low-impedence coils like the Blaster 3. It causes the unit to burn out. quote:
What type of coil can I use with the Ignitor��? How do I check my coils resistance?
(For negative ground applications only)
To determine if your systems coil is compatible with the Ignitor, some measurements should be taken prior to installation of the Ignitor. Caution�� While performing this test, never leave the ignition switch on for more than 30 seconds at a time.
Set your voltmeter to a 15 or 20-volt scale. Attach an 18 or 20 AWG jumper wire from the negative coil terminal to an engine ground. Attach positive (red) lead of your voltmeter to the positive side of the coil, and the negative (black) lead to an engine ground. Turn the ignition switch to the run position. Now read the voltage at the positive coil terminal. Turn the ignition switch off. If the voltage measured is approximately 12 volts, no resistance wire is present. A typical resistance wire will provide 9 - 6 volts.
The next step is to determine the resistance in the primary ignition. Label the wires attached to the coil terminals and note their appropriate location. Make sure that the ignition switch is off and disconnect all wires from the coil. Adjust your meter to the lowest ? ohm scale. If you are using an analog style meter make sure to zero the needle. Measure from the negative terminal to the positive terminal. Write your measurement down.
Now the maximum system amperage can be determined, divide your voltage measurement by your coil resistance measurement. This will give you the system current or amperage.
Four cylinder engines should not exceed 4 amps. Six and eight cylinder engines should not exceed 8.5 amps. If the total amperage in your system is higher than the amount recommended for your application, you should install a ballast resistor.
Example Voltage 12
Resistance 1.5
12 / 1.5 = 8
Total amperage 8
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Jack Collins
'66 coupe
250 Crossflow / T-5
Click here to visit the Mustang Six website!and
The Ford Six Performance Forums
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I65Stang
Gearhead Posts: 6219
From: Folsom, CA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 07-07-2001 10:51 PM
I had two go out on me in my '65 w/ its 200 (first one the green tape or whatever it is messed up, I think the magnets got screwed up in the second) so now I just run points  . Reminds me, I have a 5 year warrantee on that sucker, gonna go get me a new one and sell it for a few bucks. A Mallory Unilite or Duraspark is in my future I think .------------------
Tim
M&M Member #35
1965 Mustang coupe, 200 ci w/ a Holley 2300, Clifford header, and true duals w/ 26" Smithys, for showin'
1988 Mustang GT AOD vert, totally stock for now, 15.810 @ 88.871 mph 100% bone stock with no traction, for goin'
1976 Silverline Comoro 18' trihull ski boat, 188 hp 302 I/O, everyone needs more toys
and need a truck for towin'
http://all.at/mustang
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/I65Stang.html
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66 coupe
Gearhead Posts: 234
From: Orlando, FL
Registered: Nov 99
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posted 07-08-2001 01:12 PM
Pertronix just released a new version called the Ignitor II. It's supposed to be able to handle the load of low impedence coils and it has several other features as well. ------------------
Jack Collins
'66 coupe
250 Crossflow / T-5
Click here to visit the Mustang Six website!and
The Ford Six Performance Forums
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bluestreek
Gearhead Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 07-08-2001 02:12 PM
I have used the same original Petronix module on my '66 for 5 years and have made 100s of 1/4 mile passes over 6000 rpms, and 1000s of street miles on it, with the original coil that came on the Ford 289s.. I haven't had to open up my distributor since the conversion..No more points or condenser is a woderful thing.. The instruction sheet specifically said "do not" to use high performance coils with it.. I guess they know what what they are talking about..
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 6677
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 07-08-2001 11:18 PM
:}
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69maverick
Moderator Posts: 1440
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 07-09-2001 11:01 AM
My son had one on his 68 302 It worked for about 6 months then it started to miss on every other hole! then it quit!! Duraspark
is the only way to fly! P.S. he still had the stock coil in it![This message has been edited by 69maverick (edited 07-09-2001).]
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Poppy
Journeyman Posts: 15
From: Clearwater Fl.
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 07-09-2001 05:04 PM
I have had a pertronic in my 65 now for a year and have not had one problem. I am running a pertronic coil with it and also a MSD igniton box. The whole thing was installed by my best friend and mechanic. It is awesome although I use the car daily.
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 6677
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 07-09-2001 07:17 PM
I have the Pertronix with the Pertronix coil. l0,000 mile, no problem. But there shouldn't be!! If I were going on a long trip, I'd take a spare!
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 2205
From: in the RV, moving soon from SC to VA
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 07-09-2001 08:58 PM
quote:
Originally posted by mellowyellow:
If I were going on a long trip, I'd take a spare!
I've had my pertronix in for about5 years now, had a problem about 3 years ago, sent it back (directly to pertronix) and they sent me a new one, and I haven't had any problems the past 3 years. However, I think that next time I build and engine I'm going to go with the duraspark. That way I don't have carry a spare, and if I do go on a trip and happen to have a problem, all I need to do is go to the local Napa or Autozone and they'll have the duraspark parts on the shelf, as opposed to a product like pertronix only sold by specialty shops, ie mustang vendors. If pertronix makes a deal to be sold by the major parts carriers, then I'd stick with them, as it works fine for what I'm using it for.
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