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Author
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Topic: Traction Lock installation
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Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 630
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 06-11-2001 01:14 PM
   
OK, I'v finally got my 9" 3.50 traction lock center section and plan on installing it this weekend. Is there anything I should watch out for or be aware of when I do this?
What do I use to pull the axles out? Slide hammer? Someone told me that I really didn't need a gasket. That I could just put RTV sealer on the center section. Ever heard of that? What type of oil should I use? Do I need to use the friction modifier additive if I go with the synthetic oil?
If you have any tips or advice, I would appreciate them.------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 8796
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 06-11-2001 04:12 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Robert K:
OK, I'v finally got my 9" 3.50 traction lock center section and plan on installing it this weekend. Is there anything I should watch out for or be aware of when I do this?{That the spline count of your axles is the same as the differential) What do I use to pull the axles out? Slide hammer? {Put your drum back on the studs backwards and with the nuts loose and use the drum as a slide hammer. If they are really stuck, you may need an axle puller (slide hammer).} Someone told me that I really didn't need a gasket. That I could just put RTV sealer on the center section. Ever heard of that? (Form a gasket with your old gasket should work fine} What type of oil should I use? {85-100 wt gear oil w/ 1 tube of friction modifier.}
Good luck, it's an easy 1-2 hour job.  SteveW
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H8CHEVY
Gearhead Posts: 280
From: Southern Cali
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 06-11-2001 08:11 PM
I was told by the driveline shop where I got my trak-lok done at to make sure to put 2 bottles of that friction modifier stuff from ford in... (they are small bottles)
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 8796
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 06-11-2001 10:49 PM
The more modifer you put in the more it will slip. So if you don't want it to grip hard, then add more. As in, if you want to road race, or don't drag race.
If you want it to hook on the drag strip, or street then just one bottle will be fine. With none at all the clutches will chatter, which is damaging to the trac-loc. H8chevy's mechanic is just trying to protect the clutches, unfortunately at the expense of performance.  SteveW
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Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 630
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 06-12-2001 12:30 PM
Thanks for the advice. Hopefully the job will go smoothly and won't take much longer than a couple of hours. I can't wait to try out those 3.50 gears  ------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 8796
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 06-12-2001 12:52 PM
Robert,More tips, leave your brakes in place while you pull the axles out of the backing plates/axle tubes.
Check the wheel bearings, now is the time to change them if they are worn.
And change the axle seals.
Good luck, SteveW
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Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 630
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 06-12-2001 12:59 PM
I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean when you say "leave the brakes in place". I've got the granada rear end w/disk brakes. Will I have to disconnect the brake lines? Wheel bearings..axle seals...this is sounding like a weekend project already.
Will I have to take the axles to a machine shop to have the bearings installed??
I've never installed rear wheel bearings or axle seals before. ------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 8796
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 06-12-2001 01:09 PM
Robert,The disk brakes will stay in place, don't disconnect them. I was thinking of drums. The seals only take a couple minutes and cost a couple bucks each. They are inside the axle tubes, you can try and reuse them. Don't let the axles drag on the seals while you are pulling or installing them. Wheel bearings need to be pressed on and off. I take mine to NAPA auto parts and they do it while you wait. They are probably ok, it's just something to check while you've got the axles out anyway. Good luck, SteveW
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Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 630
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 06-14-2001 12:13 PM
What is the oil capacity of a 9" rear axle?
Do you grease the rear wheel bearings like the front wheel bearings?
Sorry for the dumb questions but I'm still a little apprehensive about this procedure since I've never swapped out a center section before.------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 8796
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 06-14-2001 01:04 PM
5 pints or 2 1/2 quarts,SteveW
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Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 630
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 06-15-2001 07:59 AM
I've got all the things I need for the swap but I was looking at the axle bearings and to me they don't quite look right. I haven't pulled the axles yet so I can't do a side by side comparison. I know the bearing has to be pressed onto the axle so I was expecting a sealed type bearing. The bearings I got (for a 78 granada) are not the sealed type. The way the bearing is made it looks like the bearings themselves ride on the axle. Does this sound right????------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp
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mvierow
Gearhead Posts: 209
From: Bay Area, Ca
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 06-15-2001 07:09 PM
Steve, quick question while your on the subject. I had a mechanic do a 9" rear swap w/ disks similar to what Robert has described. He mentioned to me that the clutches were tuned more for street performance than strip and I had always wondered what was involved in tuning it for the strip when needed. Was he simply speaking about the amount of modifier he added? If so, will simply draining the rear and refilling with only one bottle of modifier tune it for a more aggresive street or strip app.? At the moment, I can only light up one tire well. The other, while it does put out a few rotations, will not spin at the same rate as the other tire.Is it nessecary to remove the axles completely when changing a center section? Mike
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Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 630
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 06-18-2001 08:46 AM
"Easy 1-2 hour job" ??? Not for me. 
It took me awhile to figure out how to remove the axles. To make a long story short....On a granada disk brake rear-end You must remove the rotor, dust shield and also part of the bracket that holds the inner brake pad. Then you can remove the 4 bolts that hold the assembly to the axle housing and slide the axle out. (gee, it sounds so easy now).
I also had to make a slide hammer to remove the oil seals. One of the oil seals was a royal pain to get out. The bearings that I bought were the wrong ones, so I had to call around and find a shop that sells the correct bearing AND can press it on (on a Saturday at that...Gallatin Auto Parts and Machine Shop RULES !!!). Let's see.. turned over tub that had all the drained gear oil in it...Will need to change the rear U-joint because this new spindle is a different size...Couldn't lift new center section by-myself to install it...so now I'll have to get another gasket since the sealer already set-up on me...It's about this time that I called it quits.... A friend is coming over tonight to help me hoist this thing into place.
Does anyone ever get tired (and I don't mean physically ) of working on their car??
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67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 8796
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 06-18-2001 10:03 AM
Mike,Sounds like your clutches (trac-loc) are set up loose. To tighten them up they need to be disassembled and shimed tighter, or they may be worn out. It's not as simple as using less modifier, but it's worth a try.
And, you just need to pull the axles out about 2 inches each to pull the center section. Robert, Bummer man, sorry to hear that. At least we gave you the confidence to try it! It'll go faster/better next time! On your u-joint, why not just use the old yoke on your new center section? And for lifting the center section use a floor jack. Do I ever get mentally tired of working on my car(s)? You bet, but I refuse to pay to have it messed up by someone else, I can do that all by myself. SteveW
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Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 630
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 06-18-2001 10:20 AM
Yes, you did give me the confidence to try it and I'm glad I did because I learned more about how my car is put together which is always a good thing. If I had it to do over again I could do it in at least half the time maybe even less.
I thought about using the old yoke but it is held in place by the pinion nut isn't it and I would rather replace the U-joint than wrestle with the pinion nut. Besides now I can go with a standard size U-joint instead of the mixture of 2 sizes like I used to have on the old one.
I tried the center section on a floor jack but it wouldn't fit under the car. I guess I could've put the jack stands on something to give them more height. Hopefully, 2 people should be able to lift it into position without too much trouble and I'll be on my way...
Thanks to everyone for their help !------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp
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Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 630
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 06-25-2001 09:13 AM
Finally got everything installed. Took it for a test drive Saturday. 70 MPH@ 3K RPM's.
Ouch. 80 MPH@ 3.5K RPM's mmmmm.....ok no more interstate driving. I can definitely see a 5 speed in the future. Maybe not the near future....Nice acceleration though. Now I wish my engine made more power. My wife caught me looking at 351W crate engines in a catalog over the weekend. "What are you doing looking at engines?"..."Oh just seeing what's on the market?"..I was really checking prices...I think a 351W would be just the ticket.
Anyway, when I turn, doesn't have to be a 90 degree turn, the tires drag/squeal/etc. Even just backing out of the driveway makes a little squeal sound. The guy who set up the traction-lock said that it's set up on the tight side and that it would take about 500 miles to set the clutches. Does this sound normal??------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp
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MisStang66
Journeyman Posts: 9
From: Sonom, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2001
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posted 06-25-2001 11:29 AM
Robert,Sounds good! Don't worry about cruising that engine at 3000+ rpms, it will like it. SteveW edit: I gotta remember to change screen names [This message has been edited by MisStang66 (edited 06-25-2001).]
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