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Author
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Topic: Question for all you FE guru's
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jkilroy
Gearhead Posts: 1546
From: Vicksburg, MS
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 06-10-2001 06:51 PM
   
This 390 being my first FE I have a question. I finally installed the guage panel I got from JME for my 68. (It looks killer) Well now that I have an oil pressure guage that shows numbers I am a little concerned. Cold the motor shows about 50lbs at idle but as the motor heats up this drops to 20lbs. Seems a little low to me but I have had another FE guy tell me that was normal. Once hot it is about 35lbs cruising down the road at 2750 rpm. Is this the normal range for an FE? Right now the car has straight 30W in it, should I switch to something like 20W50? The good news is, that the new temp guage works as well and the car stays at 180 stopped in traffic on a 90+ day with no problem.------------------
Jay Kilroy
68' Fastback GT 390
"No such thing as a cam thats too big"
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The Iceman
Gearhead Posts: 1862
From: Shelton, CT
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 06-10-2001 08:46 PM
Sorry to be somewhat off-topic - but what exactly does FE mean?? haha I never really asked before  sorry and hope you get help with your question! have a good one  ------------------
Dan - and yes, I am still called "Dan Dan The Chevy Man" to this day! haha
1965 Coupe "BeeBop"
Straight "6"
3-spd manual w/Hurst Shift
https://mustangsandmore.com//ubb/TheIceman.html
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jkilroy
Gearhead Posts: 1546
From: Vicksburg, MS
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 06-10-2001 08:54 PM
I think it means "Ford Engine", no kidding.------------------
Jay Kilroy
68' Fastback GT 390
"No such thing as a cam thats too big"
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 24286
From: Saco, Maine Toys: '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150
Registered: May 99
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posted 06-10-2001 08:59 PM
No, it means 'Ford Edsel.' The engine series was designed for that ill-fated car line.The FE family includes the 352/360/390/406/427/428 engines. For your engine, if you go by the old 10 psi/1000 rpm rule of thumb, you're safe. But that's some thick syrup you're running in there. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.50 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC {Wife's car...}
All Fords since 1977
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 975
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 06-10-2001 10:43 PM
Did you do any oiling modifications? There are several that can be done on these engines.Here are a couple forums that deal only with the FE, and are quite good. http://network54.com/Hide/Forum/74182
http://network54.com/Hide/Forum/21142 Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/motorcitymustang/cmml/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 975
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 06-10-2001 10:58 PM
Check this out...http://members.tripod.com/lyc_42/fordv8/fe/fe.htm Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/motorcitymustang/cmml/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 975
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 06-10-2001 11:05 PM
Quoted by an FE racing guru, Gary Ballanger, on the first FE forum listed a couple posts up...
Get a large passage oil filter adapter from either a 427, 428CJ or a '68-'70 passenger car 390.
Enlarge the oil pump to filter passage to 7/16. Your 427 may already be there, some reccomend 1/2, but I don't think that's needed. In your application go with a Melling HV pump and FPP drive shaft. Run the mains and rods a little bit loose clearance, but don't go racing specs unless you plan to be racing it all the time. Chamfer the main passage openings to match the bearings, and check the main passeges for cracks on the main webbing. They have been known to crack where the passage casting neets the saddle. No biggie just zap it with a wire feed. Another place to watch is the rocker shaft passeges. Many shops as a preventive measure cut a pushrod to fit the passage and put it in there to keep it from leaking. Restrict the oil to the rockers. There are a few ways to do this, you can put a drilled to .100 pipe plug in the passage before you install the heads, or put a restriction in the passage under the stands. I do the latter. My present solid lifter 390 has two Holley jets pushed in each side, the bottom is a #90 with a .110 opening and a 612 close tiolerance onethat averages out to about .075 or so. I had these jets laying around, it would be cheaper to cut and drill a piece of 5/16 stock an inch long to about .080 and put it in there. Positive guide seals are a necessity. I think you said it was a '68? If so, solid or hydraulic cam? If solid and using non-shell lifters I'd block off the passeges to the lifter galleys. There are those who say it isn't neccesary, but the oil is wasted going through there that could be used otherwise. Get the tongue-type rocker baffles that divert rockershaft oil return to the valley and you'll see plenty of oil getting to the lifters. I wonder if that was what they were designed for in the first olace.
Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/motorcitymustang/cmml/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
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Rory McNeil
Gearhead Posts: 712
From: Surrey, B.C. Canada
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 06-11-2001 03:04 AM
Although I normally do similar oil passage modifications on my 428`s, they won`t increase the oil pressure, only the volume.For the oil pump to filter adapter, as well as the adapter to the front main feed passage, I go 7/16`s", there is too great a possibility of a wayward drill wandering off center & breaking thru the gallery with the 1/2" drill in my opinion.For a mild street engine, I don`t usually do much, only if 6000 rpm + is planned. I agree about plugging the hydraulic lifter feed passages when using solid lifters, the OE "dumb bell" solid lifters use a large groove in the center of the lifter body, pressurized oil is not needed with solids. However any of these mods would require drilling & tapping for thread in oil plugs, so you wouldn`t want to do them on an assembled engine because of the metal shavings. One thing you can do without any machine work is to restrict the oil passages (1 per bank) that feed the rocker shafts. What I do is get a plain ol` regular non adjustable FE pushrod, cut two 1" lengths from it, (not the ball ends).file a shallow flat on 1 side of each, & after removing the rocker assemblies, slip one of these restricters into the angled hole beside the rocker arm bolt. (2nd bolt on one side, 3rd bolt on the other) The head bolt prevents the restrictor from falling down, & the rocker bolt stops it from escaping the top.The piece slips in the hole easily, & can be readily removed for cleaning or whatever, with a pencil magnet. Excessive oil filling the valve covers is a common problem with FE`s burning oil, this cures that.
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jkilroy
Gearhead Posts: 1546
From: Vicksburg, MS
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 06-11-2001 11:37 AM
I do suffer from too much oil up top, I'll have to give that a try. Thanks------------------
Jay Kilroy
68' Fastback GT 390
"No such thing as a cam thats too big"
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