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Author
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Topic: Paint Removal
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BrentonRose
Journeyman Posts: 39
From: Avondale, Arizona
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 05-28-2001 04:14 AM
   
The situation is this, my 67 Coupe has about 6 Layers of paint, best I can tell anyway through the chips. The paint has cracked in places as well, like right on top of the deck lid and on top of the fenders, I dont want to even mention the hood, I already have a replacement fot it. Should I have it bead blasted? If so how much does this typically cost? (In Arizona), After the bead blasting I would guess that I would have to prime it right away...I dont know anything about body work at all. Please help.
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Harrys'65
Gearhead Posts: 341
From: Saint Paul, MN
Registered: Sep 99
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posted 05-28-2001 08:36 AM
Beadblasting is the way to go (IMHO), it is the fastest way. In Saint Paul MN Beadblasting a coupe runs about $600. I would bet my mothers potroast it is cheaper in AZ (Labor prices are higher here).
You are right, you should prime it right away to keep any surface rust from forming.
Do you plan on tackling the body/paint by yourself? If not, find a shop first, then go have it blasted. They may know of some places for cheap.Best of luck, ------------------
Harry Straub
'65 Mustang Coupe
302 4v Dual exhaust
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BrentonRose
Journeyman Posts: 39
From: Avondale, Arizona
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 05-28-2001 09:10 AM
I dont plan on doing any of the body work or painting myself since I dont have a clue...I guess I should find a good body shop first.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 42139
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 05-29-2001 01:52 PM
quote:
Originally posted by BrentonRose:
I dont plan on doing any of the body work or painting myself since I dont have a clue...I guess I should find a good body shop first.
It's a wise man that knows his limitations. 
------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.50 open {on the way!}
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC {Wife's car...}
All Fords since 1977
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 8754
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 05-29-2001 02:00 PM
I had the '66 bead blasted 3 years ago. It was $500 in CA. Some shops will prime it for an additional charge (of course). Keep in mind that the bead blasting removes all previous bondo too. I thought the car was fairly straight before it was blasted. LOLSteveW
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 6609
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 05-29-2001 02:46 PM
I had some stuff media blasted and it was a good way to go. In the shop they had done a 67 GTO cvt and it had a thin patch of bondo that was damage, not rust. They were able to get the paint, and not the Bondo. They left it for the customer to make a decision.
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BrentonRose
Journeyman Posts: 39
From: Avondale, Arizona
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 05-30-2001 01:15 AM
I am sure I have bondo hiding underneath all that paint...I am almost afraid to look. What about the engine bay can that be blasted as well?
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68F100
Gearhead Posts: 2293
From: Fort Madison, Iowa USA - United We Stand
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 05-30-2001 02:45 AM
Where's Zonie been? He should be able to give some pointers. Where is Avondale? I lived in AZ for 13 years and never heard of it. Is it a suburb? If you are anywhere near Tucson, I might be able to point you in a direction or two.
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WK Irish
Journeyman Posts: 24
From:
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 05-30-2001 11:18 AM
BrentonRose:
As an alternative that you might want to check out is RemovAll's Paint Stripper in a gallon jug or 14 ozs aerosol. Water based, environmentally friendly with NO nasty toxic chemicals/wastes to be concerned about, we have seen it used on any number of paint systems with good success.
Best applied thru a gun to help atomize it and speed the penetration process, which is that it dives thru the pores of your paint and then produces oxygen, which "pushes" the paint off of the substrate or next lower layer. Just wet/dry vaccuum or putty knife off the curled up residues. Multiple paint layers may require multiple applications to get down to steel. Does tend to help soften bondo's (of various kinds) for relatively easy removal too.
You might want to consider it at least in the engine compartment to preclude problems with sand/bead blasting damage.
Check our website for more info.
Hope this helps.
WK Irish
See ya' on the net at www.zerorust.com
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 6609
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 05-30-2001 12:15 PM
If you decide to chemically strip the car yourself, rough the paint with a coarse grit like 80-120 to open up the paint and speed the action of the stripper.
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 8754
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 05-30-2001 01:00 PM
I had a summer job back in 1972 stripping paint from airplanes. I got $50.00 per plane (Cessna's) using aircraft paint remover. The stuff available today isn't nearly as "good" as it was then. If you try this at home, be prepared for a big mess. SteveW
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BrentonRose
Journeyman Posts: 39
From: Avondale, Arizona
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 05-31-2001 01:04 AM
Well I really don't want the mess of chemicals, I am willing to pay for someone else to do it. Maybe a package deal, like the bead blasting body work and paint all at one time. When I do this should I include all my fiberglass parts, like attach them to the car or have them seperate?
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