Author
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Topic: gauges not working
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The Buckmaster Gearhead Posts: 158 From: Summerfield Oh USA Registered: Nov 99
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posted 05-27-2001 11:03 AM
I did a search and as was suggested I replaced the regulator.When I ground the gauges they also will move like they should.The regulator is hot on one side and sends a pulse from the other side like a signal blinks.I also know I have power going to the fuel gauge.What should I try next?It looks to be ground related.I'm hot on the one post of the regulator,it pulses comming out and all the clusters are pulseing.Even the wireing to my gas tank has power that pulses.[This message has been edited by The Buckmaster (edited 05-27-2001).]
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 42139 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 05-27-2001 07:39 PM
Try jumping the ground to the body. What shape are the body grounds in? ------------------ '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip '97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC {Wife's car...} All Fords since 1977
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The Buckmaster Gearhead Posts: 158 From: Summerfield Oh USA Registered: Nov 99
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posted 05-28-2001 09:52 AM
The body grounds are all new.We tried a jumper wire to the instrument cluster.no change.I took one of the regulators and ran it straight from the battery and it still has this pulse.Should the current be solid or pulse.I even tried another cluster,disconected the engine harness and four regulators.Nothing has helped so far.I still have current out to the sending units and gas tank area.
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Doc Gearhead Posts: 466 From: Redwood City, Ca. USA Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 05-28-2001 03:22 PM
I think you should run a long hot from the battery to the + side of the guage regulator with the existing supply wire disconected as a test. I don't think there's supposed to be a pulse. Can you hear a tic like a signal flasher while pulsing?
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kcode Gearhead Posts: 2983 From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208 Registered: Jun 99
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posted 05-28-2001 10:07 PM
I assume that the regulator you mention is the constant voltage regulator on the back of the dash panel. If it is, the voltage out is a pulsating voltage. The two terminal studs on the back of the gauge, are your wire connections oriented correct? Have you checked the resistance at the fuel pickup to ground? I'd have to look up the resistance readings for a full tank versus an empty. Mike[This message has been edited by kcode (edited 05-28-2001).]
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richard bohm Gearhead Posts: 373 From: tucson,az-luray,va Registered: May 2001
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posted 05-29-2001 01:21 AM
the voltage leaving the ivr(instrument voltage regulator) will pulse. it uses a bi-metalic spring that heats up and cools off the maintain about 5.5 volts. pull the fuel sending unit and test it with an ohmmeter. you can get the specs from the shop manual on what the readings should be. also check the mount area for the sending unit, if it is not clean that will cause the bad ground.
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The Buckmaster Gearhead Posts: 158 From: Summerfield Oh USA Registered: Nov 99
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posted 05-29-2001 10:10 AM
I have tried just about all of the things mentioned.I,ve cleaned it,gave it extra ground and they still did not work.If you ground the lead wires the gauges will climb.I still need to check the sending unit resistance.Oil pressure,temp and fuel do not work.This thing will drive you crazy.[This message has been edited by The Buckmaster (edited 05-29-2001).]
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Doc Gearhead Posts: 466 From: Redwood City, Ca. USA Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 05-30-2001 01:28 AM
Did you use teflon tape on the senders? This wouldn't effect the gas guage but it can keep the senders from getting grounded.
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The Buckmaster Gearhead Posts: 158 From: Summerfield Oh USA Registered: Nov 99
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posted 05-30-2001 10:16 AM
No tape was used.
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