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Author
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Topic: Stainless Steel Engine bolts
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Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 630
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 05-17-2001 08:18 AM
   
In an attempt to spiff up my 302, I got a set of ARP 12 point stainless steel engine bolts from SummitRacing and was installing them last night. So far, I'm not all that impressed especially for the price of the kit. The fuel pump bolts don't fit and they sent 4 of them. I've never seen a 289/302 with 4 fuel pump bolts. The alternator bolt is too short and for the distributor hold down bolt they sent a stud with a nut not a bolt. I also thought that for the price they charge, the bolts could be labeled in the kit much better.
For example, I had two bolts labeled both motor mount and alternator. Well, they're both different sizes and both too short for the alternator bolt and if they're for the engine mount I think I need two bolts of the same length. There are also several bolts that aren't labeled. The quality of the ARP bolts themselves is excellent but if you're going to put a kit together it should be organized a little better than this.
Has anyone experienced these kinds of problems or is it just me? Am I being overly critical?------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp [This message has been edited by Robert K (edited 05-17-2001).]
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Greenstang
Gearhead Posts: 908
From: its all a fog..
Registered: May 2001
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posted 05-17-2001 09:28 AM
I have heard the same thing from friends regarding ARP's engine bolt kits
No first hand experience myself though  ------------------
Marcus
My World
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Doc
Gearhead Posts: 466
From: Redwood City, Ca. USA
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 05-17-2001 02:08 PM
We've used many ARP small block kits and none have been exact. Each time it's been different (wrong) bolts. The ARP rep said it's cause they'd either have to make many kits or put 12 or 15 extra bolts into them and charge more. If it's any consolation many Chevy kits are the same way  .
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Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 630
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 05-17-2001 02:49 PM
'Not exact' I can handle. I don't call the items that I previously mentioned 'not exact'.
What am I supposed to do with FOUR fuel pump bolts that don't fit. Show me the 289/302 that uses 4 bolts to hold the fuel pump on. TWO that don't fit would be plenty. What am I supposed to do with ONE motor mount bolt. Or, if it's not a motormount bolt then it's one of the two alternator bolts that neither one is the right length.
Folks, this is a little more serious than 'not exact'. At best, it is shoddy/incomplete packaging and at worst it is false advertising.
So is ARP saying it's normal to have a dozen or so bolts that aren't used.
I'm sorry for venting but after spending $135 for a bolt kit that I can't use all the bolts from and is nowhere near correct makes me angry and I think everyone on this website should be warned.
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67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp
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Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 630
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 05-17-2001 05:35 PM
Well, I just got off the phone with Rob from ARP and he was very understanding and helpful. He said the small block Fords were a nightmare to provide hardware for because there are so many different combinations. He said there were 11 different combinations for the waterpump/timing cover alone.
He said he would swap out the hardware that I didn't need/couldn't use for the correct sizes for no extra charge. Of course I'll still probably have to pay to ship the unneeded hardware back to ARP. Even though they were receptive to my complaints, I still say for the money this should never happen. Now I've got to take the old bolts and figure out the sizes that I need.  ------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 42859
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 05-17-2001 07:07 PM
I bought an ARP SS 12 pt. kit for my 351C, and it looks right. The bolts for my valve covers are made for stamped steel covers, so I'll need longer ones for that. Plus the header bolts are only 3/4" long, and with 3/8" flanges and 1/8" gasket that only leaves 1/4" of bolt in my heads, so that won't do.Thanks for the heads up, though. I'll check the rest of the bolts closer before I call to get the VC and header bolts replaced. ------------------
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC {Wife's car...}
All Fords since 1977
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Doc
Gearhead Posts: 466
From: Redwood City, Ca. USA
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 05-17-2001 09:18 PM
What's the differance between not exact and wrong? Some could be cut but who wants to pay good money for a kit and then have to make the darn things over. And by cutting/rethreading you lose the good rolled thread finish! I'm yet to see ANY bolt kit be all correct when like Steve points out, we use aftermarket parts with thicker or thinner flanges. I have a whole box of leftover bolts and I figure some day I'll be able to do a motor without ordering any .
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jkilroy
Gearhead Posts: 1808
From: Vicksburg, MS
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 05-17-2001 10:00 PM
I like the 6pt, non-stainless bolts a lot more for the simple reasons - An open end does not work on a 12 pt. (I don't know about you but every now and then there is one funky bolt that you have to use an open end to get to)
- A 6pt socket still works fine
- They cost less and still have the reduced head size
- Much easier to drill for safety wire
- Anti-sieze is not required. Using a stainless bolt in an iron block or aluminum head *requires* antisieze, ask a boat owner about galvanic corrosion. ------------------
Jay Kilroy
68' Fastback GT 390
"No such thing as a cam thats too big"
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