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  Radiator cap lbs. help...

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Author Topic:   Radiator cap lbs. help...
65coupei6
Gearhead

Posts: 451
From: S.F., CA
Registered: May 2000

posted 04-29-2001 09:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65coupei6   Click Here to Email 65coupei6     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I am trying to raise the boiling point of my cooling system. I have a 6 cyl and am using a 13lbs. cap now. What is the highest I can go? 16lbs.? I know the higher I go the more pressure thre is and I have to make sure my hoses and seals are in good shape. Which they should be.

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cpmaverick
Gearhead

Posts: 1666
From: Santa Clarita, CA
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 04-29-2001 10:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You should stick with the 13lb cap. What are you trying to accomplish? Is the car overheating? A higher pound rating cap will not necessarily make more pressure in the system, the water pump does that.

More antifreeze will raise the boiling point but it will make the car overheat more easily. You should never reach the boiling point of water (212) anyway.

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 8796
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-30-2001 04:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
With all due respect Charlie, that pressure is created by expanding fluids caused by heat, and not by the water pump. The fluid gets very hot when it flows through the water jackets near the combustion chambers. The pump just circulates the fluid, to pump pressure into the system it would have to pump something into the system, not just reciculate what is already there.

That said, a 13 psi cap should be good, and I'd add water wetter in your mild SF climate. I helps the water conduct heat from the engine and helps transfers it to the radiator core better than plain water and a lot better than antifreeze. You shouldn't have a problem though, so maybe a visit to the radiator doctor is in order. Good luck,

SteveW

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65coupei6
Gearhead

Posts: 451
From: S.F., CA
Registered: May 2000

posted 04-30-2001 09:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65coupei6   Click Here to Email 65coupei6     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
My car doesn't really overheat now. I put in a 160 degree stat. , flushed my system (4-row rad.) and used distilled water plus water wetter and some anti-corrision stuff from Preston. I also added a shroud. The only problem is when the car idles for a long time. Not usually from traffic but from entering and exiting car shows. I guess its just from being overbored.

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I65Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 6219
From: Folsom, CA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 04-30-2001 09:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for I65Stang   Click Here to Email I65Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Wow, with my 3-row, 13 lb cap and stock fan w/o shroud with just good ol' water and coolant my 200 never overheats even in 100+ degree days sitting in nonmoving traffic. Last summer I was even running a stock 2-row without a problem (no problem when it had the exhaust manifold or with the current header either).

------------------
Tim
M&M Member #35
1965 Mustang coupe, 200 ci w/ a Holley 2300, Clifford header, and true duals w/ 26" Smithys
1988 Mustang GT AOD vert, totally stock for now, 15.810 @ 88.871 mph 100% bone stock with no traction
1976 Silverline Comoro 18' trihull ski boat, 188 hp 302 I/O, everyone needs more toys
http://all.at/mustang
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/I65Stang.html

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 8796
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 04-30-2001 09:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Like the Doc said when I said it hurts when I do this. "Don't do that"

SteveW

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