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Author Topic:   in need of paint/primer advice

Posts: 123
From: sacramento, ca. usa
Registered: May 2000

posted 04-12-2001 01:38 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 67resto-coupe   Click Here to Email 67resto-coupe     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
in an effort to keep costs down, i'm going to try to do most of my own body work and paint prep...only thing is, i've been told by a few of the local mom/pop paint shops that the primer sold at kragens/pep boys is CRAP. i would like to strip the old paint off using chemicals and a d/a sander, but want to prime right away to keep rust off. any recommendations for primer brands, types? i plan on getting the car painted a light metallic blue, almost a brittny blue, just a hair darker. and i've been told to avoid dark color primers like black or brown when planning on a light color. thanks for the help...


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Posts: 5395
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 04-12-2001 11:04 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Jeff: If you're going to bare metal, a good primer to start with is Vari prime which is a self etching primer with rust inhibiting properties. It's a light grey. For fill capability, another primer is used, I believe. Your paint & body supply store should be able to help you. Just remember, that stuff is toxic as hell. You'll need to have a GOOD respirator.

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Posts: 176
From: Catlin, IL USA
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 04-12-2001 11:44 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for skips69   Click Here to Email skips69     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Jeff- listen to those people at the mom and pop paint stores. They have saved my butt more than once, and if they've been in business for any length of time, they won't stear you wrong. Don't skimp on the supplies either, 90% of a great paint job is in the prep. Good luck!

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Posts: 123
From: sacramento, ca. usa
Registered: May 2000

posted 04-12-2001 12:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 67resto-coupe   Click Here to Email 67resto-coupe     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
oops, i forgot to be a bit more specific...i don't have a compressor. i was referring to the primers available in aerosol cans. and actually the folks i spoke to were the ones that owned mom/pop paint/autobody shops. i've met a few who do paint/body work but only put out 1-2 cars every few days, not a mega paint operation like one-day or maaco. i just got the impression that they were steering my business to them just out of fear of inferior products. thanks for the help...for any good aerosol product recommendations.


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Posts: 355
From: Webster New York USA
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 04-12-2001 12:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stang28965   Click Here to Email Stang28965     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
No rattle cans are worthy for a paint job on a car. Go rent a compressor and gun and do the job the right way. It would take 2years and 20 cans of spray paint to cover a car. I bet it would be cheaper to buy paint and rent a compressor.

1965 Mustang Coupe
289 Bored .030over
302 Heads
420 lift Cam
H-Pipe with dynomax mufflers
8 inch rear with 3.55's
4speed trans

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John Holloway

Posts: 651
From: Romeoville Illinois
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 04-12-2001 05:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for John Holloway   Click Here to Email John Holloway     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Since you are doing this your self,You would be better off using a d/a.Chemicals gets into cracks and seams and if you dont get it all off,your going to have a big mess.Better yet,See about media blasting or Soda striping (baking soda)is starting to be big around here

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The Buckmaster

Posts: 158
From: Summerfield Oh USA
Registered: Nov 99

posted 04-12-2001 09:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for The Buckmaster   Click Here to Email The Buckmaster     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If you are going to use a D.A. on the car you must have some access to a air compresser.Spray can won't make the grade.A primer must have proper millage (depth,thickness)in order to provide protction and adhesion.You won't get that from a spray can.I personally use PPG and would start with an epoxy primer than a good urethane 2k primer.The epoxy with help provide adhesion and rust protection.The urethane will provide a solid base with good millage and low shrinkage.The urethane will appear to be more exspensive but the benefits are worth the extra money over lacquer.Don't cheat yourself with cheap undercoats,your finish will suffer in the end.

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Posts: 92
From: Denton, TX
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 04-13-2001 11:03 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Lennie_21   Click Here to Email Lennie_21     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I agree with everyone's posts here. I used to do a lot of body work back in my younger days and the most important thing I learned was:

Paint is nothing more than a colored magnifier. If your body work, primer and sanding isn't done with quality products and done amount of paint will make a car look good.

68 Resto Mod Project
289, C9OX Intake w/351 Heads, T-5, 9" w/3.89

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Posts: 159
From: Richmond, VA USA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 04-13-2001 12:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Wicked-Toy   Click Here to Email Wicked-Toy     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have used canned primer in the past with reasonably good result. The one thing you need to do if you use them is to get a quality sealer to sray on just before starting the color.

Scott Akom
65 Coupe (Modified)
68 Coupe (Son's)
2000 GT Conv. (Wifes)
1966 Project Conv.[URL=

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Posts: 341
From: Saint Paul, MN
Registered: Sep 99

posted 04-14-2001 11:30 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Harrys'65   Click Here to Email Harrys'65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I understand your position, I was there about 18 months ago. I tried to do everything bottom $$ with lots of elbow grease. After a lot of learning (read mistakes) I can suggest the following:

Don't use spraycan primer/sealer

I stripped my 65 with aircraft stripper/sanding. It is messy, dangerous and a boatload of work. Spend the $400-500 on getting it bead blasted. If you don't have the $$ you can do it the other way, but do NOT use an electric sander. It is too easy to heat the metal and warp panels(trust me on this). You will need to invest in a large compressor(over 6hp)or rent one to sand correctly.(side note: you will want the compressor for LOTS of other things, they are great to have).

Get a good respirator(Full mask style for the stripper, paint, and primers......this is a MUST)

Find a good autopaint retailer/distributor in you area. Look for DuPont or PPG distributors, they are usually good. They will steer you in the right direction. Mine was very helpful.

Ask around at work and see if there is a good cheap repair shop. Then get a quote for all the work. If it is $2500 or less do it. You WILL come out ahead.

Best of luck, if you want help stripping with stripper/sanding just ask.
[email protected]


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Posts: 5799
From: Antelope, CA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 04-14-2001 01:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for I65Stang   Click Here to Email I65Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Lol, call me Mr. Cheap but I was on a college student budget :>). I have had my white '65 in Sacramento Mustangs show in umm fall '99 and last August in the Sacramento Area Mustang Club show (white coupe with a 200 and a Holley 2-bbl), dont know if you went to either show (it also in M&M members photos). Anyhow, I did all the stripping by hand. After stripping some of the layers of paint off with razor blades (thank goodness someone didnt prep :>) I used an electric sander to get it down more and then wet block sanded to get to the final stripping. As stupid as it sounds I had to use water when using the electric sander to keep it from messing up the metal with marks, etc.

Believe it or not, I also used spray can filler primer . I can't remember the brand right now. Its sold at Pep Boys, its grey. The label is also grey and just has black lettering on it along with the outline of an old car (I will see if I happen to still have a can). I totally wet sanded the car by hand (block) after the primer to get it close to perfect (filling in high and low spots, etc as I went). When it was painted the place was suppose to shoot their primer on it but it doesnt look like they did. Everyone compliments me on how great the car looks and cant believe I did it that way . Btw, it was shot at 1 Day (DO NOT GO THERE!!!!!!!) for $800 (lol, I know, one of the most expensive shoots at 1 Day but I ran out of time so had to have them do some final bodywork for me which is coming back to bite me anyways [the paint is only their medium grade, not even the highest] ). It wasnt the shooting of the paint that makes it look good, its the prep. I have seen some people spend thousands on paint and have a really wavy body, etc. Mine is still looking good after 2.5 years.

Now, if I had to do it all over again... I would have it media blasted, it took me forever to get the stripping done (months upon months in the sun) but I was driving it at the same time. Would have been easier to have someone shoot primer for me too. But what can I say, I learned a lot this way. The only problem area I now have is that bodywork I had them finish for me, I now have rust bubbles so have to have it repaired .

There is a good paint supply shop on Fulton down by Auburn Blvd (on the right hand side if headed to Bus. 80 on Fulton). I will look up the name if you want. I still need to find a shop to do the rust repair work for me, need to have the bottom of the drivers side quarter panel cut out and a patch welded in and resprayed (1 Day did some body work and obviously let water sit on it and rust or soemthing) . Good luck!

Btw, I LOVE going to shows and knowing that most of the people have more in their paint and body work than I have in my whole car . Without a doubt I have the cheapest paint at the show too but it still looks great . Nobody believe its a cheapy paint job.

M&M Member #35
1965 Mustang coupe, 200 ci w/ a Holley 2300, Clifford header, and true duals w/ 26" Smithys
1988 Mustang GT AOD vert, totally stock for now, 15.810 @ 88.871 mph 100% bone stock with no traction
1976 Silverline Comoro 18' trihull ski boat, 188 hp 302 I/O, everyone needs more toys

[This message has been edited by I65Stang (edited 04-14-2001).]

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