My question is what front end alignment specs is everyone using for those who have the lowered A-arms? I know this is addressed in the archives but I would like to hear a few more suggestions.

Tracy

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67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp

The reason I say that, is although this helps the geometry, its still not optimal. If you are going to be ripping the whole front end apart to do this, you might as well make it closer to optimal. That would involve dropping the mounting point closer to 2 inches and getting the ball joint wedges that Pro Motorsport sells to avoid binding the ball joint with the arms at that angle. Or of course, going to something ike the TCP coil over set up.
If you like the way the car handles, and are not in competition where you need the extra littel bit, I wouldn't sweat it. But, while you are in there, you might as well

In addition to the camber curve changes enhancing handling, the turn in becomes sharper and under steer is reduced. It's a very worthwile modification.

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Originally posted by 66 coupe:
It also moves the roll center of the vehicle so that body roll is reduced.

In addition to the camber curve changes enhancing handling, the turn in becomes sharper and under steer is reduced. It's a very worthwile modification.

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Both of which are true, but I still stand by the fact that if you have 620's, and a 1 inch bar and like the handling, the added grip is not worth tearing it all apart just to do this.

I understand that 1" is the max you can drop the arm without binding the ball joint at full travel. If you use a negative wedge kit you can drop the arm as much as 1.75", I think. I have never had any binding or wear problems.

There is anti-dive built in to the geometry already. The upper arms are angled back and not perpendicular to the ground. It might be possible to increase anti-dive by increasing the angle, but I've never heard of it being done and don't know what the effect would be.

And in respose to the original question, I'm set up with +2.5 degrees caster, 0 degrees camber, 1/8" toe-in. I may add a bit of negative camber next time I get it aligned.

-jeff

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Originally posted by Robert K:
I don't think so because I was afraid of the same thing on my car. My car always looked tail heavy which I didn't like. So I thought I would install the 620 coils (which are supposed to drop it about 1" and lower the upper control arms. I was worried about it being too low but that's not the case. It now sits level. I wish I would have measured the car before and after but it certainly doesn't look any lower than maybe 1" but certainly not 2".
Of course your mileage may vary.

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Originally posted by 66 coupe:
I have to agree that it's not something I might do unless I had the suspension apart for something else, but if it's apart, I'd would definitely drill the four holes and make the change.

I understand that 1" is the max you can drop the arm without binding the ball joint at full travel. If you use a negative wedge kit you can drop the arm as much as 1.75", I think. I have never had any binding or wear problems.

There is anti-dive built in to the geometry already. The upper arms are angled back and not perpendicular to the ground. It might be possible to increase anti-dive by increasing the angle, but I've never heard of it being done and don't know what the effect would be.

And in respose to the original question, I'm set up with +2.5 degrees caster, 0 degrees camber, 1/8" toe-in. I may add a bit of negative camber next time I get it aligned.

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You can actually go further than that, but you would need to machine your own ball joint spacers. The ones that are being sold I have seen, I believe are for the 1.75 drop.

To be honest, I never ran the the numbers on the amount of anti-dive in the front end. that's an interesting thought....

As for the drop amount, picture the arm as a lever, the coil spring sits on top, roughly in the middle. If you lower one end, how much does the center of the leverdrop? For government work, I would put it at roughly a 1/2 inch... maybe a bit less.

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Marcus
"I have a lot in common with ducks. Ducks actually hate rain."
-H. Stuck
"My drinking team has a racing problem"
My World
ALMS Photos from Laguna Seca
(Oct. 00)

I don't get any significant wear on the edges.

Lowering the arms has no significant effect on the ride height of the car. It does change the relative location of the spring perch, but because of the way the geometry works, the change is 1/2" or less. with mine, it ended up at the same height and only dropped when I addded the new springs.

I do have one other question, I am very seriously looking at 16" gt40 or cobra replica wheels for my 70 (gone in 60 seconds did it to me) has anyone put these wheels on there mustangs, and what rubber sizes can i run with out looking like rubberbands.

Another remote possiblity is that the lower control arm bushings have gone soft and are sagging inward giving you more positive camber.

But if not and you have 0 degrees, don't sweat it. That's what I'm funning now and the handling and tire wear are pretty good.

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Originally posted by Robert K:
Is there no end to the madness?

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Nope!!

69Mav, I DO have a monte-carlo bar AND an export brace installed on the car and you are absolutely right, they would certainly affect the camber setting!!
Of course my question is, "Now what do I do ?"
Do I:
1. Leave everything as it is and be happy with the 0 degree camber
2. Pull out the export brace and monte-carlo bar and have it re-aligned
3. Install an adju$$table monte-carlo bar and export brace. (I've been secretly looking for an excuse to get the adjustable setup. )

The Madness Continues...

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Marcus
"I have a lot in common with ducks. Ducks actually hate rain."
-H. Stuck
"My drinking team has a racing problem"
My World
ALMS Photos from Laguna Seca
(Oct. 00)

If it don't move then I would loosen up the export brace at the tower end go around the block again and remeasure!

I eneded up with +2 caster, -.5 camber and 1/4 toe. The handling is excellent, but I seem to have a slight pull to the left now, even with a bit more caster on the left side. We took a little bit more caster out of the right side and it did help a little, but still not perfect.