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Author Topic:   Lowering Upper A-Arms
Robert K
Gearhead

Posts: 514
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 03-26-2001 01:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Robert K   Click Here to Email Robert K     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ok, I've completed the upper A-arm drop on my 65 and installed the 620 coil springs. Though the front of the car doesn't look as low as I though it was going to be. The car went from tail heavy to just about level.

My question is what front end alignment specs is everyone using for those who have the lowered A-arms? I know this is addressed in the archives but I would like to hear a few more suggestions.

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67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp

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DidgeyTrucker
Gearhead

Posts: 1060
From: Greenbrier, TN USA
Registered: Oct 99

posted 03-26-2001 02:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for DidgeyTrucker   Click Here to Email DidgeyTrucker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Robert, do I know you??

Tracy

[This message has been edited by DidgeyTrucker (edited 03-26-2001).]

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Robert K
Gearhead

Posts: 514
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 03-26-2001 02:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Robert K   Click Here to Email Robert K     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well, I don't think so...
What makes you think we've met? I might know you and just don't realize it yet.
I actually live in Goodlettsville, TN. but still in Davidson County. I used to be a member of the Music City Mustang Club a few years back so that could be where you remember me from.

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67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp

[This message has been edited by Robert K (edited 03-26-2001).]

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Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 03-26-2001 02:41 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
right now, I am running 1/16 toe in, and -1/2 degree of camber. I can't remember the caster specs off the top of my head.. it wasn't alot, 2.5 degrees positive maybe... next time I am going for a little more camber (-1 degree) and as much caster as I can get. With my current settings, the tires wore even for as long as they were on the car ( 7500 miles)
HTH

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Marcus
"I have a lot in common with ducks. Ducks actually hate rain."
-H. Stuck
"My drinking team has a racing problem"
My World
ALMS Photos from Laguna Seca
(Oct. 00)

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SundanceKid
Gearhead

Posts: 1033
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 03-26-2001 04:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SundanceKid   Click Here to Email SundanceKid     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What does lowering your front A-arms do? What is the correct way to do it? I have read in magazines about this mod but they fail to mentions the whys and what fors.

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Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
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posted 03-26-2001 04:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What it does is band-aid the sh*tty camber curve that ford engineers used to begin with. Picture a car that is turning hard. The outside front tire should be in such a position that it has the most contact patch touching the road. The way the suspension is delivered, (and as Ford designed it) leaves the outer edge of the tire doing most of the work (because the tire ends up cambered out undre load), and the tire wearing more severly there as a result. It left the car with some nice understeer (good and safe for common drivers) but it chews up the outside of the tire when you drive the car hard a lot of the time. By dropping the upper arm's inner pivot one inch you place the tire in a deiffernt part of the camber curve; it leaves the tire flatter when cornering and not wearing the outside edge of the tire.
HTH

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Marcus
"I have a lot in common with ducks. Ducks actually hate rain."
-H. Stuck
"My drinking team has a racing problem"
My World
ALMS Photos from Laguna Seca
(Oct. 00)

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Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 03-26-2001 05:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Sorry, I missed a part
The easiest way to do this, is to download the template (available off of a number of websites, I'll dig one up later if you want it)and transfer that to cardboard, or for overkill, steel. Then once you have thesuspension poff the car and out of the way, bolt the template up to the shock tower and drill the new holes. It's that simple... I feel the best thing to do would be to then weld the old holes closed, but no one I have met has ever done it for some reason...
Then you bolt the suspension back into place in the new holes.

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Marcus
"I have a lot in common with ducks. Ducks actually hate rain."
-H. Stuck
"My drinking team has a racing problem"
My World
ALMS Photos from Laguna Seca
(Oct. 00)

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sprcoop
Gearhead

Posts: 225
From: Tucson, AZ usa
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 03-26-2001 06:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sprcoop   Click Here to Email sprcoop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Is there a noticable driving experience difference with the 1" lowering or is it tire wear, hard cornering contact patch enhancement? Does this mod lower the body on the tires or just the steering geometry? The reason I ask is when I put my car into a corner hard enough to break traction I get a real comfortable 4 wheel drift. My front end is bone stock except for 1" lowered springs, new 1" sway bar and KYB shocks. The rear is new standard 4 leafs, new 3/4" sway bar and KYB shocks. Tires, 205/15/60 TA's front and 225/15/60 TA's back. I love the way my car corners but better is better.

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Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
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posted 03-26-2001 07:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I believe that there is a gain of overall grip in the front end, but not enough to justify ripping apart the whole suspension just to do this. If you have it apart, I would do it, or if you are killing tires I would do it. It's just a nice thing to do while you have the front end apart and are

The reason I say that, is although this helps the geometry, its still not optimal. If you are going to be ripping the whole front end apart to do this, you might as well make it closer to optimal. That would involve dropping the mounting point closer to 2 inches and getting the ball joint wedges that Pro Motorsport sells to avoid binding the ball joint with the arms at that angle. Or of course, going to something ike the TCP coil over set up.
If you like the way the car handles, and are not in competition where you need the extra littel bit, I wouldn't sweat it. But, while you are in there, you might as well

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Marcus
"I have a lot in common with ducks. Ducks actually hate rain."
-H. Stuck
"My drinking team has a racing problem"
My World
ALMS Photos from Laguna Seca
(Oct. 00)

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66 coupe
Gearhead

Posts: 231
From: Orlando, FL
Registered: Nov 99

posted 03-26-2001 08:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66 coupe   Click Here to Email 66 coupe     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It also moves the roll center of the vehicle so that body roll is reduced.

In addition to the camber curve changes enhancing handling, the turn in becomes sharper and under steer is reduced. It's a very worthwile modification.

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Jack Collins
'66 coupe
250 Crossflow / T-5
Click here to visit the Mustang Six website!

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67coupe
Gearhead

Posts: 405
From: dallas NC usa
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-26-2001 09:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 67coupe   Click Here to Email 67coupe     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
hey guys i recentally did the 1 inch drop and added a 1 inch sway bar to my 67 and now its like a whole diffrent car in the corners.
just my 2 cents. :

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Josh
67 coupe soon to have 351c(almost done)
87 bronco II on 33's(now has blown motor:(
30 model A currently rustbucket

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Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 03-26-2001 10:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 66 coupe:
It also moves the roll center of the vehicle so that body roll is reduced.

In addition to the camber curve changes enhancing handling, the turn in becomes sharper and under steer is reduced. It's a very worthwile modification.


Both of which are true, but I still stand by the fact that if you have 620's, and a 1 inch bar and like the handling, the added grip is not worth tearing it all apart just to do this.

------------------
Marcus
"I have a lot in common with ducks. Ducks actually hate rain."
-H. Stuck
"My drinking team has a racing problem"
My World
ALMS Photos from Laguna Seca
(Oct. 00)

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SundanceKid
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Posts: 1033
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 03-27-2001 03:44 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for SundanceKid   Click Here to Email SundanceKid     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I can definately see how it would lower the instant center (roll center as you put it,) by lengthening the swing-arm distance, how much anti dive is built is the stock suspention? Do you think you could add 4* anti-dive as well? Would the spring or shocks bind?

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66 coupe
Gearhead

Posts: 231
From: Orlando, FL
Registered: Nov 99

posted 03-27-2001 08:01 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66 coupe   Click Here to Email 66 coupe     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have to agree that it's not something I might do unless I had the suspension apart for something else, but if it's apart, I'd would definitely drill the four holes and make the change.

I understand that 1" is the max you can drop the arm without binding the ball joint at full travel. If you use a negative wedge kit you can drop the arm as much as 1.75", I think. I have never had any binding or wear problems.

There is anti-dive built in to the geometry already. The upper arms are angled back and not perpendicular to the ground. It might be possible to increase anti-dive by increasing the angle, but I've never heard of it being done and don't know what the effect would be.

And in respose to the original question, I'm set up with +2.5 degrees caster, 0 degrees camber, 1/8" toe-in. I may add a bit of negative camber next time I get it aligned.

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Jack Collins
'66 coupe
250 Crossflow / T-5
Click here to visit the Mustang Six website!

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Stang28965
Gearhead

Posts: 411
From: Webster New York USA
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 03-27-2001 08:20 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stang28965   Click Here to Email Stang28965     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Is this going to lower the car another inch in the front? I already have the 1 inch drop in the front with the 620 springs, Now if I do this other drop am I going to be totally rubbing the fenders with my tires? What I am trying to say my car can't get any lower then it is now in the font, would doing the drop screw me over?
Thanks
-Jeff

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Robert K
Gearhead

Posts: 514
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 03-27-2001 08:30 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Robert K   Click Here to Email Robert K     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I don't think so because I was afraid of the same thing on my car. My car always looked tail heavy which I didn't like. So I thought I would install the 620 coils (which are supposed to drop it about 1" and lower the upper control arms. I was worried about it being too low but that's not the case. It now sits level. I wish I would have measured the car before and after but it certainly doesn't look any lower than maybe 1" but certainly not 2".
Of course your mileage may vary.

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67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp

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Stang28965
Gearhead

Posts: 411
From: Webster New York USA
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 03-27-2001 08:50 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stang28965   Click Here to Email Stang28965     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
But I can't really handle more then a inch or even a half in lower now, I would rub badly.


-jeff


quote:
Originally posted by Robert K:
I don't think so because I was afraid of the same thing on my car. My car always looked tail heavy which I didn't like. So I thought I would install the 620 coils (which are supposed to drop it about 1" and lower the upper control arms. I was worried about it being too low but that's not the case. It now sits level. I wish I would have measured the car before and after but it certainly doesn't look any lower than maybe 1" but certainly not 2".
Of course your mileage may vary.


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Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 03-27-2001 09:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 66 coupe:
I have to agree that it's not something I might do unless I had the suspension apart for something else, but if it's apart, I'd would definitely drill the four holes and make the change.

I understand that 1" is the max you can drop the arm without binding the ball joint at full travel. If you use a negative wedge kit you can drop the arm as much as 1.75", I think. I have never had any binding or wear problems.

There is anti-dive built in to the geometry already. The upper arms are angled back and not perpendicular to the ground. It might be possible to increase anti-dive by increasing the angle, but I've never heard of it being done and don't know what the effect would be.

And in respose to the original question, I'm set up with +2.5 degrees caster, 0 degrees camber, 1/8" toe-in. I may add a bit of negative camber next time I get it aligned.


You can actually go further than that, but you would need to machine your own ball joint spacers. The ones that are being sold I have seen, I believe are for the 1.75 drop.

To be honest, I never ran the the numbers on the amount of anti-dive in the front end. that's an interesting thought....

As for the drop amount, picture the arm as a lever, the coil spring sits on top, roughly in the middle. If you lower one end, how much does the center of the leverdrop? For government work, I would put it at roughly a 1/2 inch... maybe a bit less.

------------------
Marcus
"I have a lot in common with ducks. Ducks actually hate rain."
-H. Stuck
"My drinking team has a racing problem"
My World
ALMS Photos from Laguna Seca
(Oct. 00)

[This message has been edited by Nos351C (edited 03-27-2001).]

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sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 1824
From: Beaufort, SC
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 03-27-2001 11:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ok guys, been lurking on this thread so far. I understand how the geometry change makes cornering better, but what about tire wear driving straight? does it change at all, or is it all in how the car is aligned. I have the 620's and it corners well, but I still have a real problem with eating tires. The alignment shop told me it was already within specs and didn't touch anything... basically said they couldn't help me with the tire wear except sell me new tires , but then again, the last time I had it aligned I didn't have this resource to ask about it. The alignment specs you're using, the +2.5 degrees caster, 0 degrees camber, 1/8" toe-in, how far from the stock figures are they?

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kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 2623
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 03-27-2001 01:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I know my response will not satisfy the original question of alignment specs, but for my $.02. I have lowered the uppers on both or my cars, 65-66. This change made the most difference in handling over any other changes. If you do not excede the one inch drop, the negative wedge kit is not required. Sig, if it means anything, I wear the inside off of the tires, on our 1000 mile round trip to Pensacola this past weekend, I just pumped the tires up to around 40 lbs each and lived with it. Small price for improved handling.

Mike

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66 coupe
Gearhead

Posts: 231
From: Orlando, FL
Registered: Nov 99

posted 03-27-2001 07:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66 coupe   Click Here to Email 66 coupe     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
the original alignment specs for a 66 V8 were 0 degrees caster, +1/2 degree camber, 1/8" to 3/8" toe in.

I don't get any significant wear on the edges.

Lowering the arms has no significant effect on the ride height of the car. It does change the relative location of the spring perch, but because of the way the geometry works, the change is 1/2" or less. with mine, it ended up at the same height and only dropped when I addded the new springs.

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Jack Collins
'66 coupe
250 Crossflow / T-5
Click here to visit the Mustang Six website!

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70grande
Journeyman

Posts: 80
From: Renton, Washington
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 03-29-2001 05:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 70grande   Click Here to Email 70grande     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Agian you guys are awsome. I have researched the same question with you guys a little while back, and have decided to lower the A arms, go with the 620 1" short springs, already have the 1" sway and all new energy suspenssion bushings, and know i will be very happy once i put it all back together. Still cleaning the engine compartment getting ready for paint before i put the suspension together.

I do have one other question, I am very seriously looking at 16" gt40 or cobra replica wheels for my 70 (gone in 60 seconds did it to me) has anyone put these wheels on there mustangs, and what rubber sizes can i run with out looking like rubberbands.

you guys are awesome, i know all my carheads have been informed by me about this sight, thanks

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Robert K
Gearhead

Posts: 514
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 04-02-2001 08:18 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Robert K   Click Here to Email Robert K     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I had my car aligned this weekend and I told them to go with +2 degrees caster -1 camber and 1/8" toe-in. They couldn't give me the negative camber. The closest they could get was 0 degrees. That was all the adjustment there was. The upper control arm was all the way against the shock tower. Has anybody else experienced this problem?
After driving it yesterday, I think I'm ready to get rid of the 195-70R14 tires. I don't think they can hang with my new driving habits

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67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp

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Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 04-02-2001 11:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
That's interesting, I never heard of that problem before...

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Marcus
"I have a lot in common with ducks. Ducks actually hate rain."
-H. Stuck
"My drinking team has a racing problem"
My World
ALMS Photos from Laguna Seca
(Oct. 00)

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69maverick
Gearhead

Posts: 906
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-02-2001 12:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 69maverick   Click Here to Email 69maverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Robert K after the 1" drop did you move the holes back 1/8"? If not that might explain why! This depends on what year car you have if you need to do this or not!!

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Robert K
Gearhead

Posts: 514
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 04-02-2001 12:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Robert K   Click Here to Email Robert K     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yes, I used the template from MustangsPlus which moves the holes back 1/8". The car is a 65 fastback.
I'm not sure how moving the holes back would affect the camber. As I understand it, camber is how much the top of the tire leans in or out.

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67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp

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66 coupe
Gearhead

Posts: 231
From: Orlando, FL
Registered: Nov 99

posted 04-02-2001 01:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66 coupe   Click Here to Email 66 coupe     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I've heard of that happening before. there's a good bit of production tolerance on these old unibodies. Coupled with the tendency to sag and shift, it's entirely possible to run out of adjustment.

Another remote possiblity is that the lower control arm bushings have gone soft and are sagging inward giving you more positive camber.

But if not and you have 0 degrees, don't sweat it. That's what I'm funning now and the handling and tire wear are pretty good.

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Jack Collins
'66 coupe
250 Crossflow / T-5
Click here to visit the Mustang Six website!

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Robert K
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From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 04-02-2001 01:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Robert K   Click Here to Email Robert K     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I thought about that but the lower arm bushings are only a couple of years old.
I should probably be happy they were able to get it as close as they did.
Everytime I think I'm about done with this car something else pops up that I want to change or improve. Now I'm thinking about installing subframe connectors before I put the carpet back in. Then new wheels and tires. Then while I'm doing that I might as well...
Is there no end to the madness?

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67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp

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Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 04-02-2001 01:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Robert K:
Is there no end to the madness?

Nope!!

------------------
Marcus
"I have a lot in common with ducks. Ducks actually hate rain."
-H. Stuck
"My drinking team has a racing problem"
My World
ALMS Photos from Laguna Seca
(Oct. 00)

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69maverick
Gearhead

Posts: 906
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-02-2001 04:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 69maverick   Click Here to Email 69maverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
OK I feel like a dummy your right I don't know why but I thought you said Caster!!
Please give me a second chance!

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Robert K
Gearhead

Posts: 514
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 04-02-2001 04:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Robert K   Click Here to Email Robert K     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
69Mav, No problem. I'm open to any and all suggestions or ideas.
One thing I just thought about though is that I've got the Granada disk brake setup on my car (front and rear) and wondered if that could be affecting the lack of being able to obtain negative camber.

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67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp

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69maverick
Gearhead

Posts: 906
From: Thomaston,CT.
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posted 04-02-2001 04:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 69maverick   Click Here to Email 69maverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
So here is my shot if the shock towers were spread out at the top then this would result in lost of CAMBER! Do you have a Monty- carlo bar in there? If not then I would want to know what it measures across? If you do then I would want to see what it did if you took it out!

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69maverick
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From: Thomaston,CT.
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posted 04-02-2001 04:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 69maverick   Click Here to Email 69maverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Oh ya it would! The lower arms on a Mav. is shorter than the 66 stangs. I'm not 100% on that but I'm pretty sure! I do know that on a 69 Mav. they used lowers off the Falcon then,when they went into full production the later 70 models has a longer arm for better handling. But I don't know what one's interchange as far as lenth goes?

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Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
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posted 04-02-2001 04:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You just used the spindles off te Granada right? not the upper and lower arms?
If you just used the spindles, I don't think that would contirbute to lack of negative cmaber, I know it didn't on the cars (all 67-68's) I have done.
Brain fade time...
how is camber adjusted for on the 65's?

------------------
Marcus
"I have a lot in common with ducks. Ducks actually hate rain."
-H. Stuck
"My drinking team has a racing problem"
My World
ALMS Photos from Laguna Seca
(Oct. 00)

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Robert K
Gearhead

Posts: 514
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 04-02-2001 05:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Robert K   Click Here to Email Robert K     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I just used the spindle off the Granada. The upper and lower control arms were purchased new and are supposed to be for a 65 mustang. The camber is set by inserting/removing shims between the upper control arm and the shock tower.

69Mav, I DO have a monte-carlo bar AND an export brace installed on the car and you are absolutely right, they would certainly affect the camber setting!!
Of course my question is, "Now what do I do ?"
Do I:
1. Leave everything as it is and be happy with the 0 degree camber
2. Pull out the export brace and monte-carlo bar and have it re-aligned
3. Install an adju$$table monte-carlo bar and export brace. (I've been secretly looking for an excuse to get the adjustable setup. )

The Madness Continues...


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67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp

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Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
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posted 04-02-2001 05:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
ah.. I thought that was what it was, I just couldn't remember for sure.
hmm...

------------------
Marcus
"I have a lot in common with ducks. Ducks actually hate rain."
-H. Stuck
"My drinking team has a racing problem"
My World
ALMS Photos from Laguna Seca
(Oct. 00)

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 04-02-2001 06:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The new Mustangs and Fords came today. There is a letter addressing this issue. Of course, the answer was to buy Global West suspension components ie upper control arms, etc. They said that problems could arise even with a 1" drop. What did Shelby do? Has anyone priced Global products, lately??

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Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 04-02-2001 07:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Shelby dropped them one inch on the 65 street cars, probably more on the race cars.
The problems they are most likely referring (sp?) to are premature wear on the ball joints.
I have heard and seen in print many times, that that was a side effect of dropping the uppers, but from the sets I have looked at, and those I have done, it was not a problem, at least not anymore than a car without the dropped uppers. (let's hear it for run-on sentences)
The global west stuff was priced fairly high (~600)last time I looked. It was definitely higher than I would consider for my street car. When I get funfds to build the race car I might consider it and TCP's coil over setup. (drool)

------------------
Marcus
"I have a lot in common with ducks. Ducks actually hate rain."
-H. Stuck
"My drinking team has a racing problem"
My World
ALMS Photos from Laguna Seca
(Oct. 00)

[This message has been edited by Nos351C (edited 04-02-2001).]

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69maverick
Gearhead

Posts: 906
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-02-2001 08:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 69maverick   Click Here to Email 69maverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If it were me I would start with taking a measurement between the shock towers near the top near the monty-carlo bar then take it out and remeasure! If its smaller your going to have camber at this point!
P.S. I would think you would have to take it out drive it around the block then measure!

If it don't move then I would loosen up the export brace at the tower end go around the block again and remeasure!

If nothing else you have a good excuse to go for a couple rides in your stang!

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66 coupe
Gearhead

Posts: 231
From: Orlando, FL
Registered: Nov 99

posted 04-03-2001 12:01 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66 coupe   Click Here to Email 66 coupe     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You might also check the distance between the lower control arm bolts and compare to another car or to a body manual. could be too close together.

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Jack Collins
'66 coupe
250 Crossflow / T-5
Click here to visit the Mustang Six website!

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2bav8
Gearhead

Posts: 207
From: Mesa, AZ
Registered: Jun 99

posted 04-03-2001 04:37 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 2bav8   Click Here to Email 2bav8     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I just had my 66 realigned today.
What an ordeal. With headers and lowered control arms, its really is a major ordeal to get somebody to work on the car. They spent over 2 hours on just the right side.

I eneded up with +2 caster, -.5 camber and 1/4 toe. The handling is excellent, but I seem to have a slight pull to the left now, even with a bit more caster on the left side. We took a little bit more caster out of the right side and it did help a little, but still not perfect.

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2BAV8 Mustang
www.geocities.com/2bav8
[email protected]
1966 Restomod Coupe

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