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  9" rear end rebuild

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Author Topic:   9" rear end rebuild
nash
Journeyman

Posts: 99
From: Nashville, TN, USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 02-28-2001 01:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for nash   Click Here to Email nash     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I am looking for advice/information on rebuilding ford 9" rear end. It is a 3.70 open which I would like to keep the gears but change to a limited slip. The rear end also leaks at the pinion and I dont know what all else might be wrong with it. It came off a car that has not run in 20 years so I don't know much about it. I have never worked on a rear end before and am curious about dificulty and an special tools required. I would like to rebuild myself and would appreciate info about what I will need and what costs I will be incurring.

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9555
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 02-28-2001 01:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Nash,

If the pinion bearings are usable as is, the job is fairly simple. The hardest part of a gear swap is setting the pinion depth. Which you won't have to do.

In your case, leave the pinion alone and change the pinion seal. Then remove the ring gear & carrier. Remove the gear from the diff. carrier. Install the same ring gear onto your new trac loc differential w/ new bearings as needed.

Re-install the ring gear/carrier and set the backlash to the pinion gear. .008-.010 or so (check book specs), double check wear pattern which should be fine since the pinion depth hasn't changed and the ring gear is the same one. It's not hard, check back with us if you get confused.

SteveW

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 27660
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 02-28-2001 03:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The only real wear concerns are the bearings and pinion seal. Do a physical and touchy feely inspection on the bearings and replace any that feel rough or look pitted. You will need a puller for all but one bearing.

------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link

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nash
Journeyman

Posts: 99
From: Nashville, TN, USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 02-28-2001 05:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for nash   Click Here to Email nash     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Any advice on what to get to turn this into a limited slip (auburn, detroit, powertrax, traction lock). Also, what is involved in this and what would this typically cost or would it make more sense to find a used traction lock center section. Also, what will I need to do to get the pinion seal out especially since this is not under a car and therefore not hooked up. Thanks for the information.

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 27660
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 02-28-2001 06:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I think that Steve L. and several others on the forum have used 28 spline traction locks for sale. That's all you really need except for all out competition. The other units are very expensive. The pinion seal is just knocked out of the retainer with a hammer and a drift punch or large screw driver.

------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link

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nash
Journeyman

Posts: 99
From: Nashville, TN, USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-01-2001 04:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for nash   Click Here to Email nash     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Is there any special tool required to get the nut off of the yoke with the pinion flange not attached to anything.

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 46005
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 03-01-2001 04:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I sold my spare Trac Loc, Alex.

Nash, If the rear is still into the car, put the emergency brakes on and use a good impact gun, or a breaker bar with a long pipe.

If it's off the car, take the pinion off the rear and chuck the yoke in a vise.

This is a good time to have a good impact gun and a strong compressor. Have any buddies that work in a garage?

------------------
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L Disposable Commuter
"Ford! The closer YOU look, the better WE look!"

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nash
Journeyman

Posts: 99
From: Nashville, TN, USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-06-2001 09:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for nash   Click Here to Email nash     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have removed the carrier form the housing and the nut on the yoke. How do you remove the pinion oil seal. The manual refers to some ford tool, what can I really use other than a pair of pliers and bend it to get it out. Thanks for all the help.

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 46005
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 03-07-2001 02:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Use a chisel and knock the edge of the seal up, then pry it off with vise grips or radiator hose pliers.

------------------
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L Disposable Commuter
"Ford! The closer YOU look, the better WE look!"

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nash
Journeyman

Posts: 99
From: Nashville, TN, USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-07-2001 03:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for nash   Click Here to Email nash     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks, I got it out with some prying. It turns out that I have the 9" rear end from a 1957 ford on my 65 mustang and have been all over town looking for the 4" diameter seal. Finnaly found it. Any advice on putting it back in (somebody said something about silicon sealer) and on putting the rear end back on the housing (no gasket but use rtv). How about the axles, should I replace there seals and bearings. The bearings spin good. Also, I have I messed up the preload on the pinion by taking the yoke and the nut off to get the seal out? Thanks for all the help.

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 46005
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 03-07-2001 04:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The best driving tool for the pinion bearing is a large socket {other that a seal driving tool, that is.} or carefully use a piece of wood. If you look at the side of the seal, there is sealer on it already from the manufacturer.

For the carrier, use the gasket, not RTV only. Don't forget to use new copper washers on the housing studs.

Always change the axle bearings unless they are brand new.

Taking the nut and yoke will not affect the preload by much. Just torque the nut to correct specs.

------------------
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L Disposable Commuter
"Ford! The closer YOU look, the better WE look!"

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