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Author
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Topic: now I need some pilot bearing help
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 1692
From: Beaufort, SC
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 02-26-2001 07:59 PM
   
Ok, as I've mentioned in other posts lately, I'm working on changing the clutch for a guy who has a 66, 289, with a 86 T-5 5spd in it. I am installing a stock 66 289 10" clutch, but nobody seems to stock a 66 289 pilot bearing. Should I use the 86 302 pilot bearing? I would assume the outer diameter is the same, as I assume 289/302 cranks all have the same hole diameter for pilot bearings. Does anyone know if the input shaft, the part that actually fits into the pilot bearing, is the same for the toploader 4spds and the late model 5 speeds? I had Pep Boys look up the 86 pilot bearing and they have it, but its not the solid brass piece I'm used to, but one with a roller bearing. Are these interchangeable? If so, I would assume the one with the roller bearing is more desirable.I'm also pricing looking for the same stuff for my car (68 302 w/toploader 4spd), as it is coming up on needing a new clutch soon. Again, the parts houses (Pep Boys, Autozone) are telling me the 60's 289/302 pilot bearings are not available. National Parts Depot has pilot bearings, but lists two different ones, one for 65-67 260/289, and one for 68-73 250/289/302/351. I don't understand this. I would think the same pilot bearing would work for all 65-73 289/302 engines. As I mentioned above, if the 80's type pilot bearing with the roller bearing incorporated is interchangable, should I go with that for my car with the toploader? Thanks guys, you bring great sanity to an insane world. 
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kcode
Gearhead Posts: 2408
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 02-26-2001 10:46 PM
Sig, try National parts depot for the bronze type. I have gotten two different thicknesses from them. I think the original is about 7/16 thick, the last one I got is about 5/8 think in a Borg/Warner box. The t-5 input shaft nose is the same as the top loader. I can't answer anything on the roller bearing type bushing because its too new for me. Mike
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 17471
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 02-27-2001 12:01 AM
The bronze and the roller bearing type (better) will interchange. ------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link
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Gary
Gearhead Posts: 713
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 02-27-2001 07:02 AM
Have question, what lubricates the roller bearing? Is it a sealed self lubricating piece? I have never had a problem with the self lubricating bronze type bush, just wondered about the roller as Iv'e never used one before on the nose of a imput shaft. Thanks
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cpmaverick
Moderator Posts: 1482
From: Auburn, AL.
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 02-27-2001 11:52 AM
I use the roller bearing with my Toploader 4-speed. I just put some grease in it, it's unlikely it will dry up in there.
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 17471
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 02-27-2001 02:21 PM
The roller bearing pilots have a "long wear" lubricant from the factory. [This message has been edited by Moneymaker (edited 02-27-2001).]
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 1692
From: Beaufort, SC
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 02-27-2001 09:10 PM
Alex, I know this may come off as a dumb question, but how to you get the roller type bearing out?I've heard stories about filling the void behind the pilot bearing with grease, hammering in a wooden dowl the same diameter as the hole, but it hasn't worked for me yet. I end up chiseling it (the solid type) out every time. Is the roller type that good that it doesn't have to be changed when the clutch is changed? Normally when I have the clutch apart I change everything whether it needs it or not. Sorry to be waisting so much time on such a simple part.
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 17471
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 02-28-2001 03:28 PM
I use a slide hammer tool adapter that is called interestingly enough a "pilot bearing removing tool". It has to small fingers that fit behind the bearing and you snatch bang it out. Another fail proof method that I use is to find a bolt that is just a bit too small (.010 or less) for the pilot hole and tap it in. I then impact or ratchet it all of the way down and it pushes the pilot bearing out. The hammer and chisel method works also. ------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link
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