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  Power Brake Booster Question

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Author Topic:   Power Brake Booster Question
mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 02-11-2001 11:12 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
My 68 has power disc brakes with a Midland Ross booster. The car has been apart for 10years-it came as a roller with everything in boxes. Talked to the seller this AM in N.C. and he said the power brakes worked fine when the car was dismantled. I have a new master and am putting on rear discs but am wondering if there is a way to determine if the booster is OK prior to assembly.

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Dave Gibson
Moderator

Posts: 7549
From: Norfolk, Virginia, USA M&M#166 MCA#47921
Registered: Aug 99

posted 02-11-2001 11:57 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave Gibson   Click Here to Email Dave Gibson     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Mellowyellow,
Terri and I had to replace the brake booster on our '65. We got lucky and had a N.O.S. unit in the trunk from the original owners. The sales recipt was with it and was dated November 1968, for $34.43. We went ahead and had it installed. Works fine and we have not had any problems with it. But it is totally up to you on weather or not to install it or have it rebuilt and then installed. National Parts Depot rebuilds them. Hope this helps.

Dave & Terri

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66 Bench Coupe (Anna Belle)
65 "A" Code w/4 Speed (Poni)
66 "C" Code Coupe (Sally)
MCA#47921
M&M #166

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sounnder
Journeyman

Posts: 30
From: Lompoc, Ca.
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 02-13-2001 11:24 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sounnder   Click Here to Email sounnder     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
[QUOTE]Originally posted by mellowyellow:
[B]My 68 has power disc brakes with a Midland Ross booster.

My suggestion would be to connect the booster to a vacuume source (while it's out of the car) and listen for leaks. This is just a quick initial test. When my break booster went bad it only leaked when i applied the breaks. good luck.


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1968 GT/CS
1965 C code Fastback
(The Rust Bucket)

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 02-13-2001 03:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hook a MityVac to it and see if it holds vacuum.

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'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L Disposable Commuter
"If it's not a Ford, it's not mine!"

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 02-13-2001 03:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Steve. Forgive my ignorance, what is a mity vac??

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 33988
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 02-13-2001 03:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
A hand held vacuum pump. A tech's best friend.

http://www.mityvac.com/

------------------
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L Disposable Commuter
"If it's not a Ford, it's not mine!"

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460-67Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 195
From: Southern Ohio, USA
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 02-15-2001 09:35 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 460-67Stang   Click Here to Email 460-67Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
mellowyellow,
About your 4 wheel disc install....what master cylinder are you planning to use? 4 wheel disc requires a different setup than 2 wheel, front only disc. I've done some research on this and would like to swap notes with you.

Also, I tested a power booster by simply using the vacuum of my f-150. I just unplugged the booster in the truck and hooked it to the booster I was testing. Don't forget to put that hose back on or your brakes will surprise you next time you drive!!

Thanks,
Brian
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Webmaster, Tri-State Mustang Club of Greater Cincinnati, Ohio
http://www.tristatemustang.com

Got a 429/460 motor in a classic Mustang? Join the "429/460 motors in classic mustangs" discussion group at Yahoo groups! To join, send e-mail to: [email protected]

'67 Mustang coupe in "restomodification", 460 Motor at about 500 hp, C-6 Tranny w/high stall convertor, 9" rear w/3:50 gears and Detroit Locker, Power Disc brakes all around. ETA = Spring '01.

----------->>>>> Got Displacement? <<<<<------------

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 02-15-2001 10:49 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Brian; First off-Welcome! Glad you posted. I have the stainless steel brake corp. setup. I got it with my 68 and it is still in the boxes. The kit is new, but several years old. I have an adjustable prop. valve that came with it, also. I am not aware of the MC problem you mention. I have a new MC that I purchased. MY understanding is that the existing one can be used but, of course, the propo rtioning valve must be installed. When I get off line, am going to call stainless and get their answer. I would appreciate any feed back and what setup you are using. Thanks for posting. Pete

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mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 5739
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 02-15-2001 11:21 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Brian: Called Stainless Steel Brakes, 800-448-7722. and asked about the MC They said that I could use the new one that I purchased. The coordination of front and back is through the proportioning valve. Like to hear more about your setup. Pete

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460-67Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 195
From: Southern Ohio, USA
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 02-18-2001 10:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 460-67Stang   Click Here to Email 460-67Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Pete,
From the research I've done, I've determined there are a few things to consider when choosing a MC:

1) Power brakes require a larger bore MC. I'll be running a 1 1/16" bore MC for my 4 wheel disc setup. 1" to 1/18" supposedly works best. You need the larger bore to move more fluid as the caliper pistons are larger than slave cylinders found on drum brakes. A smaller bore MC can be used for manual brakes. approx 7/8" to 1" would do. 1" being a good target size". The larger the bore the more the pedal will feel soft....but you'll still be getting the pressure you need.

2) If you plan to use an original disc/drum MC for your disc/disc setup, BE SURE there is NO residual pressure valve on the read (drum) side of the MC (this is usually the front reservoir). Check your Ford Mustang manual...yo'll see that the res pressure valve is behind the rear tube port. Sometimes it can be removed. A residual pressure valve is needed for drum brakes and keeps the shoes close to the drum and ready for use. On discs it will keep slight pressue on the pad which will run the rotor warm (possible hot) and will cause drag and premature wear.

3) You need a proportioning valve on the read disc side. You want the front to have more stopping power for handling reasons. Your adjustable prop valve will work, but a stock Ford unit works too.

I plan on running a lighteight MC off a 95 Wiondstar. Yup, a Windstar. It's the perfect size, has no porp valve and has the tube ports on the left side which I need for space reasons. It's also aluminum which means no pitting in the bore.

If I had room, I'd run the polished aluminum MC I have which came off the '78 Versailles...which also donated it's 9" rear w/discs and it's distributoin block with prop valve setup. I can't run the Versailles MC cause the tube ports are on the right (motor) side and thay would rub against the valve covers of my 472. It's that tight! I have 3/4"!!

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any Q's!

Regards,
Brian

------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Webmaster, Tri-State Mustang Club of Greater Cincinnati, Ohio
http://www.tristatemustang.com

Got a 429/460 motor in a classic Mustang? Join the "429/460 motors in classic mustangs" discussion group at Yahoo groups! To join, send e-mail to: [email protected]

'67 Mustang coupe in "restomodification", 460 Motor at about 500 hp, C-6 Tranny w/high stall convertor, 9" rear w/3:50 gears and Detroit Locker, Power Disc brakes all around. ETA = Spring '01.

----------->>>>> Got Displacement? <<<<<------------

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profalcon
Journeyman

Posts: 30
From: Andrews AFB, MD
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 02-19-2001 06:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for profalcon   Click Here to Email profalcon     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I just received my info from ECI www.ecihotrodbrakes.com and they don't use a proportioning v/v with their kits. I am using one of their setups but am installing one simply because I need to reduce the pressure to the rear for a better burnout.

This is a quote from there online catalog:

Inline residual pressure valves are required when using master cylinders without internal residual valves or in the drum brake circuit of a disc/drum system using a 4 wheel disc brake master cylinder. 10 psi valve used for drum brake systems only. 2 psi valve used can be used as an anti-siphon valve in a disc brake system. 10 psi valve is not required in a disc/drum system when using EC-525 proportioning valve.

They (ECI) has lots of good info on there site and will give tech answers if you call.

PF

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http://www.trawets.com
1999
F-150 4x4, 5" Superlift, 35" BFG M/T's
1961 2-dr Falcon -in work-
1954 F-100, 460, narrowed 9"

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