Dave & Terri

My suggestion would be to connect the booster to a vacuume source (while it's out of the car) and listen for leaks. This is just a quick initial test. When my break booster went bad it only leaked when i applied the breaks. good luck.

http://www.mityvac.com/

Also, I tested a power booster by simply using the vacuum of my f-150. I just unplugged the booster in the truck and hooked it to the booster I was testing. Don't forget to put that hose back on or your brakes will surprise you next time you drive!!

Thanks,
Brian
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Webmaster, Tri-State Mustang Club of Greater Cincinnati, Ohio
http://www.tristatemustang.com

Got a 429/460 motor in a classic Mustang? Join the "429/460 motors in classic mustangs" discussion group at Yahoo groups! To join, send e-mail to: [email protected]

'67 Mustang coupe in "restomodification", 460 Motor at about 500 hp, C-6 Tranny w/high stall convertor, 9" rear w/3:50 gears and Detroit Locker, Power Disc brakes all around. ETA = Spring '01.

1) Power brakes require a larger bore MC. I'll be running a 1 1/16" bore MC for my 4 wheel disc setup. 1" to 1/18" supposedly works best. You need the larger bore to move more fluid as the caliper pistons are larger than slave cylinders found on drum brakes. A smaller bore MC can be used for manual brakes. approx 7/8" to 1" would do. 1" being a good target size". The larger the bore the more the pedal will feel soft....but you'll still be getting the pressure you need.

2) If you plan to use an original disc/drum MC for your disc/disc setup, BE SURE there is NO residual pressure valve on the read (drum) side of the MC (this is usually the front reservoir). Check your Ford Mustang manual...yo'll see that the res pressure valve is behind the rear tube port. Sometimes it can be removed. A residual pressure valve is needed for drum brakes and keeps the shoes close to the drum and ready for use. On discs it will keep slight pressue on the pad which will run the rotor warm (possible hot) and will cause drag and premature wear.

3) You need a proportioning valve on the read disc side. You want the front to have more stopping power for handling reasons. Your adjustable prop valve will work, but a stock Ford unit works too.

I plan on running a lighteight MC off a 95 Wiondstar. Yup, a Windstar. It's the perfect size, has no porp valve and has the tube ports on the left side which I need for space reasons. It's also aluminum which means no pitting in the bore.

If I had room, I'd run the polished aluminum MC I have which came off the '78 Versailles...which also donated it's 9" rear w/discs and it's distributoin block with prop valve setup. I can't run the Versailles MC cause the tube ports are on the right (motor) side and thay would rub against the valve covers of my 472. It's that tight! I have 3/4"!!

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any Q's!

Regards,
Brian

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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Webmaster, Tri-State Mustang Club of Greater Cincinnati, Ohio
http://www.tristatemustang.com

Got a 429/460 motor in a classic Mustang? Join the "429/460 motors in classic mustangs" discussion group at Yahoo groups! To join, send e-mail to: [email protected]

'67 Mustang coupe in "restomodification", 460 Motor at about 500 hp, C-6 Tranny w/high stall convertor, 9" rear w/3:50 gears and Detroit Locker, Power Disc brakes all around. ETA = Spring '01.

This is a quote from there online catalog:

Inline residual pressure valves are required when using master cylinders without internal residual valves or in the drum brake circuit of a disc/drum system using a 4 wheel disc brake master cylinder. 10 psi valve used for drum brake systems only. 2 psi valve used can be used as an anti-siphon valve in a disc brake system. 10 psi valve is not required in a disc/drum system when using EC-525 proportioning valve.

They (ECI) has lots of good info on there site and will give tech answers if you call.

PF