Brought to you in part by:

.


Tools and Supplies at Eastwood

  Mustangsandmore Forums
  '64 1/2 to '73 -- The Classic Mustang
  67-65 master cylinder swap

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
profile | register | preferences | faq | search

UBBFriend: Email This Page to Someone! next newest topic | next oldest topic
Author Topic:   67-65 master cylinder swap
Rob Parsons
Gearhead

Posts: 180
From: Lebanon,TN
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 02-05-2001 10:09 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rob Parsons   Click Here to Email Rob Parsons     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Which pushrod should be used for this swap on a manual brakes car? Can a power brake master cyclinder be used or will that cause braking problems due to the larger resovior? I have one for a 73 that I could rebuild if so.

IP: Logged

John1966
Journeyman

Posts: 23
From: Hartford, CT
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 02-05-2001 12:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for John1966   Click Here to Email John1966     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I bought a '67 MC from Autozone. The push rod that can with it will result in the same overall length as the one from the '66, so its a direct bolt in. If you compared a '66 push rod to the '67, the '67 is longer, but it goes farther into the MC. [UPDATE:] Based on what others have said about the push rod length, I double checked mine and if I used the '67 push rod in the '67 MC, it would be shorter over all. So I'm going to use the '66 push rod in the '67 MC also.

As for the power booster, I don't think it will fit because it will hit the side of the engine bay on the driver's side. A company called Trans Am racing makes an adapter which allows a power booster to be used.

------------------
Thanks,
John
visit my site:
www.familyshoebox.com/family/petstang

[This message has been edited by John1966 (edited 02-09-2001).]

IP: Logged

Rob Parsons
Gearhead

Posts: 180
From: Lebanon,TN
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 02-05-2001 02:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rob Parsons   Click Here to Email Rob Parsons     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Did you use the 67 manual drum setup in your 66 manual drum car with no problem?

IP: Logged

John1966
Journeyman

Posts: 23
From: Hartford, CT
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 02-05-2001 02:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for John1966   Click Here to Email John1966     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I haven't finished the swap yet, so I don't know if it will work. However, I'm optimistic because I got advice from three mustang forums (including this one) before I began the swap, including people who performed the swap before and said it worked fine. I'll know in March whether it worked for me.

------------------
Thanks,
John
visit my site:
http://familyshoebox.com/family/petstang
visit my homepage: www.familyshoebox.com/family/petstang

[This message has been edited by John1966 (edited 02-05-2001).]

IP: Logged

kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 2408
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 02-05-2001 10:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Rob,
I'm using the 67 manual MC with the 66 push rod. I compared the depth of the cavity in the piston and it was the same on the 66 to 67, measured from the mounting face. The 66 is about 5/8" longer.

Mike

IP: Logged

Rob Parsons
Gearhead

Posts: 180
From: Lebanon,TN
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 02-07-2001 09:50 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rob Parsons   Click Here to Email Rob Parsons     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Mike. The 67 rod is 5/8" shorter? Do you think that will be a problem causing the piston to not have enough travel? If so, I should be able to use the 65 rod. The MC I bought has a rod in it already. Are they difficult to remove? I have not looked at it too closely.

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 5272
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 02-07-2001 10:21 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Rob,

I did this swap on the '66 using a '67 m/c. I used the '67 pushrod and there isn't much pedal travel. I works, but you notice it when bleeding the brakes, the pumping stroke is only about 1/2 of what it should be. I've been thinking I need to lengthen the pushrod, but if the '66 is 5/8" longer maybe I'll try it (if I can find it?). The pushrods are held in with a spring clip. I've alway forced the rod out and replaced the spring clip when reinstalling the new pushrod.

SteveW

IP: Logged

Rob Parsons
Gearhead

Posts: 180
From: Lebanon,TN
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 02-07-2001 12:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rob Parsons   Click Here to Email Rob Parsons     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I will measure the rod on my car when I get it out. Thanks for the feedback Steve

IP: Logged

2bav8
Gearhead

Posts: 191
From: Mesa, AZ
Registered: Jun 99

posted 02-07-2001 12:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 2bav8   Click Here to Email 2bav8     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I used a 69 MC out of a Mustang (same part# as a 67) with my '66 pushrod. The pedal travel is great.

------------------
2BAV8 Mustang
www.geocities.com/2bav8
[email protected]
1966 Restomod Coupe

IP: Logged

Rob Parsons
Gearhead

Posts: 180
From: Lebanon,TN
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 02-22-2001 11:43 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rob Parsons   Click Here to Email Rob Parsons     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Sorry to drag this topic up again, but how is the rod removed from the piston? I remove the snap ring and got the piston/rod assembly out of the MC. Looks like the rod is not made to be removed from the piston. I did not try too hard to force it out because I did not want to damage it. Any suggestions?

IP: Logged

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 5272
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 02-22-2001 11:58 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Rod,

I use vise grips to force it out. The end of the rod is ball shaped with a spring clip on it. After you force it out of the piston, you should replace the clip.

SteveW

IP: Logged

kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 2408
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 02-22-2001 10:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Rob,
to salvage the 66 rod for Becks car, I ended up taking the piston out of the old MC and using a die grinder to cut the piston apart. I tried everything I could think of to get it out. I have heard that Ford had a tool to remove them. I've never seen it though.

Mike

IP: Logged

Rob Parsons
Gearhead

Posts: 180
From: Lebanon,TN
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 02-23-2001 08:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rob Parsons   Click Here to Email Rob Parsons     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Mike,
The rod in the 65 mc came right out and was not pressed into the piston like the 67 Mc I got at Advanced. Did you, or anyone else reading, leave the piston in the 67 mc to remove the rod? I don't think I can get the rod out otherwise without damaging the piston. How is Becky's car coming along?

IP: Logged

All times are ET (US)

next newest topic | next oldest topic

Administrative Options: Close Topic | Archive/Move | Delete Topic
Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Mustangsandmore Front Page

Copyright 2002, Steve LaRiviere


Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.47d

Amazon Honor System Click Here to Pay Learn More

[The M&M Gearhead Gear Store]

[About M&M][Acronym Guide][Calendar of Events][Chat Room][Classified Ads] [Links]

[Members' Photos] [Technical Articles][Ford Parts Number Deciphering

[ Mustangsandmore.com Bookstore] [Advertise on Mustangsandmore.com] [Mustangsandmore.com T-Shirts]